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Thread: New dogbones=no shimmy

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Goulburn Australia
    Posts
    689

    Default New dogbones=no shimmy

    I've just done the dogbones and my rear-end low speed shimmy is GONE Back to the 'magic carpet ride' that we know and love. Just a couple of issues that might face the home spannerman:

    1. Follow Bo's (Zeuk) good advice and either lift the axle (I put the wheel back on and lowered the car as I only have 1 jack) to get that outside bolt in otherwise you'll be there all day getting it lined up.

    2. You might want to put a self tapping washer under the top nut on the inside bolt. If you don't you'll find in nearly impossible to get a spanner on the top nut with the wheels on (when torquing under load). It can be done but there'll be no skin left on your knuckles and heaps of swearing going on.

    Thanks to all especially Zeuk and Shogun via Big Kriss for the excellent info.
    Cheers

    Wingman
    '89 525i/A Exec 193000kms
    '94 Subaru Liberty AWD Wagon
    Looking for Merc 300TE
    NSW, Australia

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Honolulu
    Posts
    3,105

    Default Bad bones

    Didn't give me a shimmy, but the car felt like the ass end floated on turns.

    Mine were down to just the bone & inner metal bushing.

    I had no trouble replacing them. just used a box wrench to hold the nut and torqued the bolt side.

    Oh, yeah I have the infamous Hamburg Tech stuff...so I guess I am testing this out to see if it stands up.


    So far so good in the pot hole paradise of the pacific


    Vee ave vays of dealing vid your kind...........

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default Sorry you went to all that trouble Wingman, you don't have to torque the

    dogbones under load



    Quote Originally Posted by wingman
    I've just done the dogbones and my rear-end low speed shimmy is GONE Back to the 'magic carpet ride' that we know and love. Just a couple of issues that might face the home spannerman:

    1. Follow Bo's (Zeuk) good advice and either lift the axle (I put the wheel back on and lowered the car as I only have 1 jack) to get that outside bolt in otherwise you'll be there all day getting it lined up.

    2. You might want to put a self tapping washer under the top nut on the inside bolt. If you don't you'll find in nearly impossible to get a spanner on the top nut with the wheels on (when torquing under load). It can be done but there'll be no skin left on your knuckles and heaps of swearing going on.

    Thanks to all especially Zeuk and Shogun via Big Kriss for the excellent info.


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    South North CA, Bay Area
    Posts
    247

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R.
    dogbones under load
    So you don't then? Who just said the opposite a little while ago? Sometimes I don't know what to think or do anymore.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default Somebody who confused dogbones(pittman arms) with the

    thrust arms which you do have to torque under load


    Quote Originally Posted by Lennyz525i
    So you don't then? Who just said the opposite a little while ago? Sometimes I don't know what to think or do anymore.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Goulburn Australia
    Posts
    689

    Default

    swear word, swear word, swear word, swear word!!!
    Cheers

    Wingman
    '89 525i/A Exec 193000kms
    '94 Subaru Liberty AWD Wagon
    Looking for Merc 300TE
    NSW, Australia

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Wellington,New Zealand
    Posts
    3,868

    Default

    do the (worn)dogbones generate a soft clunk from the rear at times over bumps....
    Gone but not forgotten

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Goulburn Australia
    Posts
    689

    Default

    I'd say possibly though a more definitive answer should come. Change them anyway. I got mine through BMA to my door for AU$140 odd. Took me with my limited tools/facilities about 1.5-2 hours to fit. The rear end feels heaps better like fitting Nolothane bushings to the sway bars.
    Cheers

    Wingman
    '89 525i/A Exec 193000kms
    '94 Subaru Liberty AWD Wagon
    Looking for Merc 300TE
    NSW, Australia

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Brisbane, Queensland.
    Posts
    145

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lennyz525i
    So you don't then? Who just said the opposite a little while ago? Sometimes I don't know what to think or do anymore.

    Lennyz525i, it was me that gone and got everyone confuzzled about what was what.

    But not about the torqueing under load.


    BnZ

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Regional NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,177

    Default

    I'll put my hand up, though I asked for wiser minds to put me straight at the time.
    My reading of Bentley left me totally confused because they seemed to use completely different nomenclature and left some doubt about whether to torque under load or not, so I decided to do it just in case - I found it very easy to do. (Didn't even say golly gosh once ! )
    Bentley had pictures with arrows which seemed to point to the dog bones and call them something like swaybar links and then in the torquing specs mentioned them again as needing to be torqued under load.
    Apologies if I misled you all - I'm easily confused.

    Edit : Finally checked Bentley - they have a picture on page 330-9 which shows what look to me like the dogbones and call them "trailing arm connecting link" (not swaybar links as I stated above).
    Then when you look at page 330-10 it has a list of tightening torques, it is still unclear which torque to use or what they are.
    However the closest things to the above descriptions are "connecting link to rear axle subframe" and "trailing arm to rear axle subframe".
    Both of which require to be torqued under load according to Bentley.
    They also list "diagonal support to rear axle sub-frame" which do not need tightening under load.

    This will hopefully explain my erroneous advice and so apologies are tendered, as I bow to greater wisdom.

    One question though, to what torque setting should I have tightened them as I am just as confused about that - I did mine to 127 Nm (94 ft-lb) though I gather now I should have done them to 110 Nm ?
    Last edited by Zeuk in Oz; 03-12-2006 at 04:18 PM.


    "I'm not the village idiot.
    But when he retires I'm next on the list."

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