Engine 'Break-In' Oil??

[Dave M]

I anticipate finishing up the engine instal in the next fews evenings. As I've rebuilt the bottom end (rings/bearings), would it be advisable to 'break-in' the 'new' engine with a special oil. I've heard that conventional oil (dino) is preferred for engine break-in.

I did a quick search and didn't find anything susbstantial.

So....... what type and grade of oil is recommended (if its recommended I go this route).

Any opinions welcome,

Dave M

[632 Regal]

go with mineral oil as recommended in the users manual for the temperature where you live. I would change it out at 500 miles and again at 2000 miles. Get at least 2500-3500 miles before going back to M1 Ow-40.

just my 2 c

[Dave M]

go with mineral oil as recommended in the users manual for the temperature where you live. I would change it out at 500 miles and again at 2000 miles. Get at least 2500-3500 miles before going back to M1 Ow-40.

just my 2 c

For fun Jeff, what do you think of the 'drive it hard' break-in theory? Do you or anyone else agree?

I just did bit of reading on it and would be willing to try. Or, should it apply to engines which haven't been honed?

other theorists

more theory


Anyhow,

Dave M

[632 Regal]

was yours honed? fresh rings?

when I used to rebuild some engines you could get rings that were already lapped and all I did was break the glaze with a ball hone. The rings would seat within 500 miles, with normal rings and a hone job mattering on the finish some would take 5000 miles to seat.

[Scott H]

New cylinder hones with new piston rings?????

Regular dino oil is preferred.....the fewer wear additives the better as you actually want to let them wear against each other a bit.

Keep it under 3500rpm for the first 300 miles and vary your rpm as much as possible......no 3000rpm highway cruising for extended period of time

Keep it under 5000rpm for the next 300 miles

Change oil and filter to Mobil 1 10w30 and off you go.......

This is IF you did new hones and piston rings....

[Zeuk in Oz]

Dave, there might be something in this theory, but I am not technical enough to comment.

The only thing that I could add is that having owned many new cars (10+) over the years, one thing has always puzzled me - they never went as hard or as well as the loaner service cars that dealers provided when my car was being serviced.

These were usually identical cars but had had a hard life because everyone would "thrash" them from when they were new. They always seemed to perform better than my car.

I don't know if this is significant or if it would be considered as driving them hard enough but it is something that always intrigued me.

FWIW

Bo

[Dave M]

New cylinder hones with new piston rings?????

Regular dino oil is preferred.....the fewer wear additives the better as you actually want to let them wear against each other a bit.

Keep it under 3500rpm for the first 300 miles and vary your rpm as much as possible......no 3000rpm highway cruising for extended period of time

Keep it under 5000rpm for the next 300 miles

Change oil and filter to Mobil 1 10w30 and off you go.......

This is IF you did new hones and piston rings....

I indicated in my first post that new rings were installed. However, no new hones. I'll still follow your advice, unless the consensus is otherwise.

Thanks for all the advise gentlemen,

Dave M

[Scott H]

sorry Dave!!! I'm guilty of one of my own pet peeves.....NOT PAYING ATTENTION!!!!

I indicated in my first post that new rings were installed.

[Bill R.]

hone the cylinders? If the old bores are worn smooth which they typically are then it will take the new rings a long time to seat in... Part of the reason you hone the bore is to provide not only grooves for the oil to lubricate the pistons and rings but also it acts somewhat as a wear surface to help the rings wear into the shape of the cylinder exactly fairly quickly.
As far as break in lubes I would use conventional dino oil for the first 5k miles or so to try and help those rings to wear in quicker. As Scott has posted vary the speed frequently when on the highway to avoid the glazing that can occur when running at one constant rpm.

I indicated in my first post that new rings were installed. However, no new hones. I'll still follow your advice, unless the consensus is otherwise.

Thanks for all the advise gentlemen,

Dave M

[Jon K]

I anticipate finishing up the engine instal in the next fews evenings. As I've rebuilt the bottom end (rings/bearings), would it be advisable to 'break-in' the 'new' engine with a special oil. I've heard that conventional oil (dino) is preferred for engine break-in.

I did a quick search and didn't find anything susbstantial.

So....... what type and grade of oil is recommended (if its recommended I go this route).

Any opinions welcome,

Dave M

For the rings and bearings did you use stock sizes or plus sizes? How did you prep the block? What is the actual procedure for getting piston rings into the cylinder?