Torque specs?

[Brians540ia]

Does anyone have the torque specs for all the nuts and bolts associated with the front strut and thrust arm replacement? Thanks in advance.

[632 Regal]

LOOK HERE

[Brians540ia]

Thanks, Jeff. I used his instructions when changing them out, but couldn't (and still can't) find any specs for the bolts that hold the bottom of the strut and the sway bar link. Also, how do you get to the thrust arm nut with the car on the ground for final torquing? Do you put it on ramps?

Brian

[632 Regal]

any specs for the bolts that hold the bottom of the strut / I should know this but cant remember, use loctite...let me look here

and the sway bar link. /Tight but not too tight

Also, how do you get to the thrust arm nut with the car on the ground for final torquing? Do you put it on ramps? /YES think those are 90 lbs

[Brians540ia]

Thanks for the info. Should be fun!

[632 Regal]

Thanks for the info. Should be fun!

[NoSpeedLimits]

Brian, I gotta do mine this weekend, and have a question.... I have been reading up on the procedure as much as possible and it seems that the tuffest part of the job is busting the ball joint apart. I was wondering how it went for you and what tool did you use (Pickle Fork and Hammer or one of those Separator tools)?

Any other tips or expressions of optimism would be appreciated.

Also, is an alignment necessary afterwards?

[632 Regal]

I used the pickle fork and a big hammer, needed to use the bigger sledge to get it to pop... 20 lb unit. Exhilerating feeling swinging a big hammer around the fenders (use alcohol moderatly till they pop) some people say they have had good luck with the seperators tho while others haven't. I prefer the grunt swing method myself. First time took about 6 hours because of lack of proper tools and makeshift methods.

I popped in the lowering springs and torqued it all together, never did an alignment and do not have adverse tire wear in 20k miles so far. The first time is the worst, it's a learning curve. I had to go back in and put in new struts (shocks), took about 2 hours total the second time with lots of help from Al (cohol) could have done it in less time but we were being careful.

[NoSpeedLimits]

Thanks for the response. Do you or would you recommend that I burn off (remove) the ball joint's boot before sticking it with the pickle fork? FYI. I bought the hole thrust arm and bushing assembly (from BMA of course....)

Also, since I don't have a lift in my garage, at least not yet I am going to purchase a set of car ramps (never been a big fan of them since I watch a buddy of mine roll his vehicle off the front of them...not a pretty site!) for pre-loading the suspension. My question is; I am wondering if it's okay to pre-load with the rear wheels on the ground. IOW...would the incline from rear to front cause any issues with the pre-loading? Or should I do my best to level the vehicle?

[632 Regal]

No need to burn the old one off, you get a new one! Inspect to be sure tho. You have heat huh...if you cant get the joint to pop you can heat the casting around the joint to ease removal, dont overheat it and then cool it cuickly when done.

The preload your trying to get can be an exact science if you want but need not be. As long as they are in the close vicinity you will be ok. The issuue with these is that some mechanics will just torque them and then put it all together, where the thrust arm wants to stay in its torqued position, that could be several inches from where it will sit when the car is under load. That will cause premature failure, sometimes within 6 months.

You might be able to find ramps with a taller stop on the end, I know people that weld an inch of square stock to the end to prevent this with stick cars.