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Thread: Blueish white smoke

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    romania
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    267

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    there are a couple of easy things to do for you to get an idea about the amount of ring wear.
    1. lift the dipstick (engine running).if you see a noticeable amount of smoke ,well , that's not too good.
    2.after you driven your car for a while stop the engine and take off the valve cover cap ( use a rag or something because it's HOT) . if u see some fumes rising it's ok. if u see a lot, it's not ok.

    remember, these are very empiric things and don't acuratly show anything. just to get an ideea of the situation.

    P.S: some people say that excesive fumes in the valve cover mean worn valve seats or bad valve or something. not necesarely. in most cases those fumes actualy come from the sump, through a big hose wich has the purpose of taking those fumes in the valve cover because of their great lubrication properties.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Bethlehem, PA
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    661

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    True story: My 83 year old neighbor has some mid '90s generic Buick wagon. Every time I hear the garage door open I know what's coming. Buick starts and he holds the pedal to the floor. No, not the brake, the gas. Asked him "Bob, how come you race the engine like that when you start your car?" Sez "Cos it gets rid of all that white smoke."

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    70

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    Blue smoke only at startup is probably valve seals as stated earlier.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Thunder Bay, Ontario
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    2,538

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    Quote Originally Posted by SRR2
    Sez "Cos it gets rid of all that white smoke."
    Soon to be replaced with blue.

    Funny

    10/90 Build 525im, 630,000+km, Eibach/Sachs, Engine Rebuild
    *RIP Oskar the DOG *

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,843

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    what oil are you using? If it's 0w-40 M1 then step up to 15w-50 if your selling it, this will significantly reduce blowby if its worn rings but I cant see that being the problem at 136k unless it was abused with shitty oil.
    Quote Originally Posted by Hypr5
    Well, the engine does run smooth and feels like it always has,
    but thats something I certainly wouldn't be able to afford to fix (in terms of downtime if I were to do it OR financially for a shop), and I'm not sure there are many people who would want to buy a car that smokes like that. Maybe thats just me... I don't know.

    I hope it's something wrong on a smaller scale.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    San Francisco. CA
    Posts
    728

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    You're giving up on your car too!? What automobile is in your future now?

    Good luck with the situation! My car seems to be having minor problem after minor problem now too, but hopefully it will all get sorted out soon enough. Before you know it, I'll be the only M20 E34 on the face of the Bay Area!

    1992 525i 5 speed (Calypso/Parchment) - 1989 525iA (Schwartz/Natur) SOLD

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    261

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    Quote Originally Posted by SC David
    You're giving up on your car too!? What automobile is in your future now?

    Good luck with the situation! My car seems to be having minor problem after minor problem now too, but hopefully it will all get sorted out soon enough. Before you know it, I'll be the only M20 E34 on the face of the Bay Area!
    Hey David...
    yeah I don't know what it is, but this is by far the most unreliable car I have dealt with. Even out of other BMWs. I don't know why. The car has been meticulously cared for, I mean... EVERYTHING has been replaced and its just problem after problem. It's incredible. The m50 e34s don't seem to be this way (from my experience) but it's the same car except for the engine. Maybe just because ours were early in the model line up? Ugh. I really am starting to hate the car. I have all records since day one and seriously... the totals add up to damn near the original cost of the car.

    Anyway, to answer the oil question - I'm using 20w-50 as recommended by the manual and many m20 owners. What's wierd is I always change the oil every 3k on the mark and it's NEVER shown signs of burning oil and on this last oil change, there was over a quart not "missing" Very wierd...

    The thing is, I personally don't care anymore, but I just hate to sell a car that smokes on start up. I am sure that that brings the already pathetic amount that this car would bring in down even more. hmmmm... Maybe an m20 rebuild is in order. Can't be that expensive anyhow - just some time.

    I Talked to the local shop and they mentioned that if it was upon startup, its most likely valve guides / seals, but if its when you get on the gas a bit then its likely the rings. It sure sounds like my case is rings.

    Thanks for all the helpful replys everybody. It's much appreciated.

    Don.

    Side note: 3 years ago, I had a compression check done. I don't know the method they used to check it, but the numbers were 135 in all cylinders. Sounds odd to me. They said it might be a "little low" but the even wear indicates a well cared for engine?? Is that right?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,843

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    you got the answer right there, dino 20w-50 oil. change it to some mobil 1 synthetic and your blue breath will most likely go away. Not to go on and on but dino oil is way way old school from what synthetic is today!!!

    edit: 20w-50 dino dont flow cold where M1 0w-40 does and seals right out of the box.

    Might be well worth the investment and if not drain it out and use it in your new car.

    there are more 525s out than most other e34s all together and 136k is almost nothing. like I said dino oil and not enough changes before you bought the car could have worn the rings but I doubt it.

    go back to synthetic and it hopefully will be a different world for you.

    Good luck!
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    261

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    Hey man, thanks for the tip.
    I'll give her a change with somethin thinner. I hear a lot about people developing leaks on shot seals by changing to synth. You think I will have a problem? I certainly hope not. lol. anyway, I'll give it a shot and see how that goes.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    261

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    One more question -

    The valves have been pretty ticky-sounding lately, much much more than normal. Although the car did have a recent valve adjustment (3k ago).

    Could improper valve adjustment cause this kind of thing if its way out of spec?

    edit: nm, it only happens when it's cold. I forgot. lol
    and: can valve seals be replaced on the m20 without complete head removal?
    I saw over at http://bmwe32.masscom.net/ that it is possible on the m70 and I know the m20 and m70 have many many similarities. Any input?

    Thanks
    Last edited by Hypr5; 02-02-2006 at 02:24 AM.

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