95 540i - best bang for the buck

[Loppy]

Cool, will check that when I'm down there. Thanks.

[SRR2]

Doesn't ring a bell with me. There was an issue with some M20 motors where the oil spray bar bolts would loosen and end up laying somewhere in the engine's top end. Don't recall hearing anything about the M60/62 like that.

M60s and maybe M62s had a problem with the bolts holding the oil pump in the block that would loosen and fall out. That one is real. See here:

http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e38/6629081-1.html
http://www.kindel.com/bmw/faq/540is_faq.htm
http://strictlybmw.com/newsletter/im.../v8oilpump.htm

There are many references discussing this problem. I just pulled up a couple to give you the flavor of it.

[SRR2]

This discussion sort of piqued my curiousity. Now I'm wondering if I should open up my M62. I found this writeup that seems to sum it up nicely...


Subject: Engine Knocking after Highway Run
From: "Christopher P. Koch" <cpkoch AT earthlink DOT net>
Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2005 17:36:41 -0400

Dear P.J. Forcino,

I have heard a similar problem with the V8 but under reverse conditions to
yours. One can consider that it is possible they are related.

What I've heard is a knocking until the engine warms up completely. After
checking many items, we finally discovered it was the "infamous M60/M62 V8
oil pump" problem. The oil pump is driven by a chain drive off the
crankshaft. As the chain stretches from age there is more and more
vibration to the oil pump. There is a threaded spacer to adjust the chain
tension.

The vibration that the oil pump is subjected by the chain drive as the chain
loosens can work out the bolts and nuts that hold the oil pump together. We
have found as many as two bolts and a nut in the oil pan! As you can
imagine, oil pressure drops off as the pump loosens up.

So far, we have found that the lack of oil pressure is most obvious when the
oil is cold and thick (as you can imagine, the superior lubricating
viscosity properties of synthetic oil can mask this effect longer).

However, one could readily imagine that the reverse condition is true - a
nice hot run on the highway could thin the oil enough to also loose pressure
for a while.

Your mechanic can check for this problem easily enough by removing the lower
oil pan. If he finds one or more oil pump bolts or nuts in the oil pan or,
to a lesser extent, the bolts have loosened up, he should remove the pump.
There should be no need to disassemble the pump and examine the impellor and
case for wear if synthetic oil has been used (one we checked with 182K miles
looked like new). With your low odometer reading, I wouldn't expect to find
any wear. All the pump bolts and nuts should be cleaned spotless in
solvent, blown dry and Loctite used on the threads (BMW says all the locker
nuts must be replaced). Any threaded holes in the block must be cleaned and
dried as well (including oil pan). He will then need to replace the two
rubber o-rings on the tubes connecting the pump to the block. Use 8 ft-lbs
on the oil pump cover, 16 ft-lbs on oil pump mounting nuts and 35 ft-lbs on
the sprocket nut.

The oil pump chain should have 8 - 12mm (10mm ideal) play when pushed from
one side to the other at the midpoint of the chain.

He will need a new pan gasket as well as sealer for both sides of the gasket
when installed (do not allow sealer to ooze inside the pan). Have him
tighten up the oil pan bolts from the center-out on both sides finger tight,
then torque them to 8 ft-lbs, again from the center out. I also recommend a
drop of Loctite on each of the bolt threads.

---------------------------------------

Another knocking that happens from underneath the car in the forward
console/firewall area is the driveshaft, especially when it is warmed up.
The rubber rear transmission mounts fail from a combination of age (yours
are 8 years old), heat and oil leaking on them. When you come off the
highway and brake, accelerate or turn the transmission shifts position and
the driveshaft can rub against the tunnel.

When your driveshaft gets older (typically 55 - 65K miles, the center
bearing will fail and the rubbing condition will be much worse. The
"classic" BMW test is to make a U turn in a four lane road while
accelerating. The driveshaft will announce itself loud and clear.

Yours,
Chris Koch
Buffalo, New York

[marckula]

definitely swap out those thrust arms and control arms (try to get stiffer bushings for them too like the 750i has), then get sport billsteins and some good springs (i like my bavauto springs - they lower the car but don't stiffen the ride too much) also, grab some of those rear sub-frame inserts from racingking.ca. while you're at it, flush / replace all fluids so you have a new baseline to base your future service intervals off of. and change your fuel filter and AC microfilter.

dont touch your exhaust or intake setup unless you're turbo/supercharging. the stock intake and exhauset are fine, you're not going to notice much by changing those.

replace your headlight bulbs too and get new wipers.

just get those basic maintenance things out of the way first. and post some pictures.

- marc

[632 Regal]

get sport billsteins and some good springs (i like my bavauto springs - they lower the car but don't stiffen the ride too much)
- marc

.

[DueyT]

Jeff, why use that when I've got a drill press in the garage and some .045" lockwire sitting around?

Cheers,
Duey

[540i/6 rob]

as others have said - skip the air box, the chip is a nice step, and the exhaust - when done right - makes for a great sound without maddening the neighbors. mine rattles the windows in the house when you start the car in the (detached) garage, but you have to try pretty hard to hear the car at all from the same distance. if you're considering an exhaust swap however - i should warn that the difference will be more in the sound than the performance. the supersprint exhaust sounds great and fits as well as the oem system or better. mine is almost 5 years old and sounds and looks as good as day 1. my chip is from dinan, as is the air box, but both pre-existed my ownership - i would have installed the air box only if they had given it to me. people here rave about the EAT chip... that's always a good sign. if you're still on the stock 15" wheels, wheels and tires always make a big bang difference... an opinion - stick with 17" rather than going any bigger for the best mix of attributes - but you know about opinions. ALSO... i've heard that the racing dynamics sway bars are discontinued. mine are on the car from before the drama about copyright infringement etc. that they went through and are the original legitimate bars. i'm not sure if the ones that would be on close-out would be the "replicas" or several year old originals, but visually they seem to be exactly the same, and they certainly made a difference. you may be able to get "a bargain" either through bavarian autospport or directly from electrodyne. obviously you want to make sure that fluids, belts and other wear and common failure items are refreshed before you bother with any upgrades just for a solid foundation. as with anything "project" - do plenty of research before you spend a dime and you'll end up with the best for the least. good luck with all - rob.

[winfred]

about the only thing i've seen hammer a m60 is sucking water through the varly low intake on a e38, the broken rods almost saw the block in half, just got done doing another

Oh, one more thing. Local bimmer guru I know hates these cars. Says the motors, in his words "tear themselves apart". Something about head bolts breaking off and getting tangled in cams and 'bam'. Hold water?

[Loppy]

Great, great stuff fellas. I'm all over it. Starting initial tear down and re-fluid today. Once I get her sorted out, pics and before/after feelings comming.