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Thread: lower control arms

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    5

    Default lower control arms

    high everyone, this is my first post on this site, so go easy on me.

    Im going to be doing the lower control arms on my 89 535i in the next couple of days, just wondering if anyone has any tips. I saw the pics and insrtuctions at the bmw e34 website. In those instructions it says to undo the bolts at the bottom of the strut housing, am i going to need a spring compressor to do this, or is that going to just give me access to the ball joint nut.

    also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of not using authentic bmw parts.

    thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,395

  3. #3
    Bimminator Guest

    Default Use oem parts!

    Quote Originally Posted by jybute
    high everyone, this is my first post on this site, so go easy on me.

    Im going to be doing the lower control arms on my 89 535i in the next couple of days, just wondering if anyone has any tips. I saw the pics and insrtuctions at the bmw e34 website. In those instructions it says to undo the bolts at the bottom of the strut housing, am i going to need a spring compressor to do this, or is that going to just give me access to the ball joint nut.

    also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of not using authentic bmw parts.

    thanks in advance.
    I just did mine with Bruno last fall (well, he did them) and he suggested that when doing control arms do both sides at same time. I had some knocking and shimmying happening while braking. The parts were cheap through Bruno, so what we did was do both control arms and thrust arms, and I upgraded to the 750 bushing. Everything is super tight now, not that I do it but I can now corner while holding the wheel with thumb and forefinger, it is that solid!

    Check out his prices, just e-mail him through his link on the e34 site.

    Goodluck, Shawn

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    1,305

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jybute
    high everyone, this is my first post on this site, so go easy on me...
    He means YOU Regal!

    Quote Originally Posted by jybute
    ...Im going to be doing the lower control arms on my 89 535i in the next couple of days, just wondering if anyone has any tips...
    Why the lower arms? If they are shot fair enough, but if you have shimmy/vibration problems at around 60mph/100kmh that becomes worse when braking then I'd check the upper control arms (known as thrust or caster rod arms)

    Do a forum search for 'thrust arms'

    ...I saw the pics and insrtuctions at the bmw e34 website. In those instructions it says to undo the bolts at the bottom of the strut housing, am i going to need a spring compressor to do this, or is that going to just give me access to the ball joint nut...
    You won't need a spring compressor unless you plan on dismantling the strut assembly to replace the springs or dampeners. Whit Lowell can probably give some additional pointers on this.

    ...also, what are the advantages/disadvantages of not using authentic bmw parts...
    Not using quality parts means doing it again in 12 months. You can obtain quality OEM parts (Lemforder etc) from suppliers like BMA at much cheaper prices than from the dealers (stealers!)

    Okay Regal, your turn... flame away!!

    1990 E34 535iA, 215,000kms (130,000 miles).
    Dual Climate, Rear Headrests, Rollerblind, M-Tech Wheel,
    Memory Seats, EAT Chip, T-Stars.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    1,305

    Default

    Well there you go!

    1990 E34 535iA, 215,000kms (130,000 miles).
    Dual Climate, Rear Headrests, Rollerblind, M-Tech Wheel,
    Memory Seats, EAT Chip, T-Stars.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    New Milford, Ct
    Posts
    271

    Default thrust arms

    Just did mine last week for the first time.

    As previously mentioned...
    refer to Bruno's website
    use 750 bushings
    or use polyeurethane bushings as suggested by Jon K.
    You can either replace your thrust arms entirely or reuse them and have new bushings pressed in (depends on the condition of the existing ball joints)

    you will need a pitman arm puller to separate the ball joing from steering plate.

    and the big thing to do is to make sure the bushings are under load when you torque the bushing bolts. withe car on jackstands, carefully place your floorjack under the steering plate, i recommend placing a block of wood so as not to damage any of the steel, and raise the jack carefully. You will see the arms move up and the spring compress and chances are the car will rise off the jackstands. BE CAREFUL. At this point the bushing is loaded and you can tighten the bushing bolt to torque, about 90-95 ft-#.

    It's not that hard a task. When done, it's worth self pat on your back.

    Have at it!
    Support your American Flag Merchant Marine
    No BMW at this time, eyeing a 91 318iS. 00 Saab 9-5, 89 Bronco XLT, 05 Kawi Z1k, 00 Ducati 748S Bip

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,839

    Default

    no flames...yet.

    i agree the upper arms are probably what he is thinking of, hope he dont order the wrong ones.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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    5

    Default

    no, it is the lowers, i jacked up hte car and shook the fronts down, to tell you the truth i didnt even notice anything was awry, i had my window open and i heard a very subtle clunk from the drivers side so i shook the front end down. it seems to me the thrust rod bushings are gone as well but its hard to tell because the ball joints are so far gone, i will be able to tell more about the thrust rods once the lower control arms are replaced. i have to say, that e34 is pretty good at keeping ambient sounds out of the car. i couldnt even hear anything, the steering was a little loose, but i attributed that to the icy roads, hmmm guess the roads arent all that icy.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
    Posts
    5

    Default

    thanks for the help boys, everything went well. the only problem I had was getting the lower portion of the strut assembly back together, but it wasnt too bad.

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