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Thread: Sticking trunk button

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Toronto
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    1,720

    Default Sticking trunk button

    This is annoying year-round, but gets worse in the winter.

    The button to open my trunk is very sticky. When it's very cold, I'll push it in and it won't pop back out. I have to put the key in it and pull it out.

    What's the best way to lubricate it?
    .


    Jay Lebo - Toronto, Canada
    1990 BMW 535i
    5-speed conversion
    Lightened flywheel
    Sachs Suspension Kit
    E.A.T. Chip

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,749

    Default

    mines being a pain but it sticks when i try to puch it in. Havent washed the car in a month cause of the mud road or salt or wet roads etc...taking its tool on that button tho. Wish I had a remote opener for it.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Middle England
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jaylebo
    This is annoying year-round, but gets worse in the winter.

    The button to open my trunk is very sticky. When it's very cold, I'll push it in and it won't pop back out. I have to put the key in it and pull it out.

    What's the best way to lubricate it?
    Mine sticks in exactly the same way ... it has tiny deposits on it like the oxidation you get with aluminium alloy.
    I have tried WD40 and silicone - neither a complete answer though, so i'm interested in what others have to say on this ...
    '90 535iSE Auto (AE+EAT) 123k miles
    '86 F288 69k miles
    '06('89)- PGE 2.0DOHC Turbo
    '03 A160LE 19k miles
    1914 Stellite E2A (no odometer!)
    (+ others I daren't mention here)
    www.pyghtle.com

  4. #4
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    Toronto
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zygoteer
    I have tried WD40 and silicone
    Neither of those is a lubricant, so I'm not surprised they don't work. I'd like to know what does work, though.
    .


    Jay Lebo - Toronto, Canada
    1990 BMW 535i
    5-speed conversion
    Lightened flywheel
    Sachs Suspension Kit
    E.A.T. Chip

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Middle England
    Posts
    286

    Default

    I don't quite follow that then, as both of the cans show the word 'lubricates' ... maybe I'm missing something here.

    I used the WD40 primarily to first dispel any moisture, then the after drying it as much as I could, (I don't really like the greasy/oily residue WD leaves) I then used a filtered airline to get out any remaining, then I used the Silicone 'dry lubricant', as this is unlikely to coagulate or freeze.

    ... seemed like a reasonable plan to me ... but was only partially succesful - I think I will have to strip & clean the mechanism though, as I suspect oxidation is the real culprit of the sticking
    '90 535iSE Auto (AE+EAT) 123k miles
    '86 F288 69k miles
    '06('89)- PGE 2.0DOHC Turbo
    '03 A160LE 19k miles
    1914 Stellite E2A (no odometer!)
    (+ others I daren't mention here)
    www.pyghtle.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
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    14,749

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    I used PB Blaster, still must be a buildup of crap under the seal.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Central Ca.
    Posts
    48

    Default

    I've always used a powdered graphite. Put a nice coating on the key and run it thru all the locks (remember to wipe it off your keys... it leaves a pretty ugly stain in your pocket). I then put some on my fingers and rub the outside of all the pushbuttons. Worked great on 35 year old locks for me.
    Rob
    Last edited by Chowchilla Skunkwerks; 01-26-2006 at 08:10 PM. Reason: spelling

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Middle England
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    Default

    Its not the lock itself that is the problem, but the actual chrome button sticking in the depressed position when it is opened.
    '90 535iSE Auto (AE+EAT) 123k miles
    '86 F288 69k miles
    '06('89)- PGE 2.0DOHC Turbo
    '03 A160LE 19k miles
    1914 Stellite E2A (no odometer!)
    (+ others I daren't mention here)
    www.pyghtle.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Toronto
    Posts
    1,720

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zygoteer
    Its not the lock itself that is the problem, but the actual chrome button sticking in the depressed position when it is opened.
    I think he's saying you can rub it on the outside of the button and it will help. I'll try it.

    Re: WD-40 and silicone, I guess they do lubricate a bit, but their main purpose is to repel water. They're not a substitute for a good, dedicated lubricant.
    .


    Jay Lebo - Toronto, Canada
    1990 BMW 535i
    5-speed conversion
    Lightened flywheel
    Sachs Suspension Kit
    E.A.T. Chip

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