How to: Use Euro H1 connectors w/ 9006 US sockets.

[Jon K]

After receiving my Depo euro ellipsoids I realized that there was no pretty way to interface the euro connector on the housing to the 9006 connector. The reseller provided me nice sturdy adapters but they were bare on one end.

I called BMW, they said they'd order the part and it'd be $40 per side per light... that's $160. So I figure BMA will have them for mega cheap. After calling, I found out that it would take a couple weeks and cost me a pretty penny still. After all, these are connectors for gods sake. I am hardcore about wiring/soldering. I've modified xbox's, repaired graphic card PCBs.... why am I trying to find adapter connectors? Because people consider anything else to be "shoddy". However, I disagree. This is what I have done in order to remedy this problem. Many people have posted and emailed asking for a solution, here is mine:


Gather the hardware you need. This includes:

Solder
Wire cutters/strippers
9006-->Bare adapters
Soldering Iron
Foil to protect granite counter
The caps for the backside of high or low beam
Electrical tape
Dremel/Drill optional*
H1 Bulbs
Wire loom optional

1) We're going to do away with an intermediate connector that would go at the back of the harness. This requires either backing the positive and ground pins out of the capsule, or, if too difficult, simply cut the H1 bulb wires (spade and post) from the inside, and pierce a hole with either a hot soldering iron or drill* to allow for the positive and ground wires to feed through. The grey wire in the harness is of no use to use because H1s only need positive and ground.




2) In the event that you managed to back the pins out, you know have a 3" red and black wire that would go to the bulb. Strip the side that has the pin and twist or tin it. With that done, strip the end of the harness that you slipped through the pin holes or holes you made. Twist these together (black to black, red to red) and solder them solid. Wrap each connection in electrical tape.



3) Go ahead and use more electrical tape in a neat orderly fashion on the housing connector. I used this foam/rubber electrical tape that contracts when heated (heatshrink tape). This allows for a water-tight seal that looks very clean. Pull the tape tight and thin it out so that when you lay it, its pulls together nice and tight. You have know completed the capsule. Go ahead and installed your H1 bulbs in the housing and hook these capsules to the back. Plug into the 9006 connector coming from your car.




The final result is very clean; almost transparent that its even aftermarket. Although you hardwired the harness in, it detaches at both the bulb and the 9006 car connector. There is no reason to have yet another adapter on the back of the capsule, especially since they are difficult to obtain and pricey. I hope this helps some people who had questions about how this is possible. If not, direct them to my email...


thanks.

[Phil M]

I'm sure this would be good in the archives

[bahnstormer]

phil, was there any reason u quoted the entire message?
if u could edit your message that'd be much appreciated.

jon nice work looks good, maybe a coat of black paint ?

[Phil M]

i guess when i deleted the quote, there was nothing in the body so it didnt save and i just xed it out without realizing. sorry for the inconvenience

[Jon K]

phil, was there any reason u quoted the entire message?
if u could edit your message that'd be much appreciated.

jon nice work looks good, maybe a coat of black paint ?

Black paint? What am I painting black?

[bahnstormer]

the siver part behind the cap....just an idea though u don't have to

[Jon K]

Thats the projector. It doesn't need to be paint (it gets hot too) because its concealed by the stock splash guards. (removed for picture)

[Unregistered]

Why not just use a bullet (F) connector onto the pins in the housing? It could even be soldered on.

Nice job. Did you find H1 bulbs w/o the shield on the tip to use for the low beam?

What wattages are you running?

Thanks,

Jim

[Jon K]

Why not just use a bullet (F) connector onto the pins in the housing? It could even be soldered on.

Nice job. Did you find H1 bulbs w/o the shield on the tip to use for the low beam?

What wattages are you running?

Thanks,

Jim

I tried soldering to the pins. They are coated with something that prevents adhesion of the solder. Not only that, its reaaaally difficult to solder in that little housing without melting the plastic... so i just cut to the chase.

The bulbs I am using are 55w and I believe the tips are not coated. They are from www.supremepowerparts.com

Here is a picture of them on:

[Unregistered]

55W for both High & Lows or are you running 100 W in the highs?

Thanks for the info - Time to dive in. I am sick of my yellow low beams, and I drive a lot of unlit roads on my daily commute. Of course by the time I get this done, it will be light until 10PM ;p

Jim