Whats the difference between a prop & JB weld? Not familiar with those terms.... all I know about welding is that you need a special one to do aluminum or else you can die
Whats the difference between a prop & JB weld? Not familiar with those terms.... all I know about welding is that you need a special one to do aluminum or else you can die
Current
2008 M5 6 Spd
2000 Z3 2.8 5 Spd MSport
2012 X5 35d Sport
1995 540i 6 Spd
1992 535i 5 Spd
Former
1995 530iA
1986 635CSI 5 Spd
2011 X3 2.8 MSport
JB Weld is like super glue for steel.....Originally Posted by DaCan23
http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php
Last edited by dacoyote; 01-05-2006 at 02:28 PM. Reason: to add a link
If it cannot be fixed by the dremel or ducktape.. get out the sledge...
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I miss my e34
OMG.... compound on an oil pan no way in hell it'll hold
Originally Posted by dacoyote
Current
2008 M5 6 Spd
2000 Z3 2.8 5 Spd MSport
2012 X5 35d Sport
1995 540i 6 Spd
1992 535i 5 Spd
Former
1995 530iA
1986 635CSI 5 Spd
2011 X3 2.8 MSport
Yeah.... thats what Jeff and I am saying....Originally Posted by DaCan23
JB weld is some great stuff... but you would be better of with ducktape on it....
If it cannot be fixed by the dremel or ducktape.. get out the sledge...
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I miss my e34
JB weld fixes a LOT of messed up stuff, I have repaired more than my share too, its a type of epoxy that gets a LOT harder than normal epoxy, good for pretty hot stuff too but I never had luck with anything related to fluids.
95 E34 530I V2.37
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Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
Same here.... JB Weld is great at what it does...Originally Posted by 632 Regal
If it cannot be fixed by the dremel or ducktape.. get out the sledge...
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I miss my e34
I disagree about JB Weld not working. IF you properly prep the pan, and make sure there is no oil in the crack (I hate it when I get oil in my crack....), it will work, and it will last a good while.
Here's what I would do:
1- drain the oil out of the drain plug.
2- jack the car up so the side with the crack is higher than the other, if possible.
3- spray carb or brake cleaner all around the area of the crack, let dry.
4- scuff the area around the crack with a wire brush or a grinding wheel (carefully).
5- Clean the area one more time, let dry.
6- apply properly mixed FRESH JB Weld to the crack, feather it out a bit so it gets a good "bite". Let dry thoroughly before filling engine with oil.
I've done this before, and it does work- but you have to take your time or the repair will not hold- the main reason is if you try to apply it to an oily pan, or you don't get all the oil out of the crack.
Bret.
i jbweld oil pans all of the time you just need to do it right, my e30 has been jb'd for almost 80k miles, drain the oil and clean clean clean then rough up the area and give it some texture, clean some more and then jb it. lately i've been using jb quick because it sets up in 5-10 minutes (but you still want to give it overnight before adding oil) this reduces the time it can run and sag
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
Like the suggestion, I drainded the oil and then jacked it up so whatever coated the pan would pool on the opposite side from the crack. Clean with brake cleaner and scrub as deep into the crack as I can. Spackle the crack with JB Weld and let it set overnight.
We'll see how it works.
Mark Hall
'95 525iA EAT chipped (just one now)
'98 528iA
I stand corrected.... some of the time prep is the most important step....Originally Posted by winfred
If it cannot be fixed by the dremel or ducktape.. get out the sledge...
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I miss my e34