wierd sound in the engine after head installation

[Bill R.]

cam gear is bigger than the crank gear.

hummm ... well I feel better now since the engine didnt start, as I removed the spark plugs when I heared the sound. so it was only on starter.

the requency of the ticking was faster than the speed of the turning camshaft, I opened the valve cover to watch what was going on, I didnt see any hesitation in the camshaft rotation.

I also added the engine flush sort of oil as I wanted to run the engine for the 20 min before tensioning the head ( final 35NM stage )

chain tensioner was empty I tried to add some oil to bring on some tension but I think it was awaiting oil circulation.

it ran about a week with contaminated milky oil. but when I removed the valve cover oil seemed to be at the minimal contamination. especially at the top. I have no idea how was it down there.

I will check the TDC today while I was wondering about the camshaft. does a 360 rotation complete a full trip? 1 RPM = 360 degree on camshaft?

I didn't simply replace the gasket only, as I replaced the valves seals and basicly ported the head intakes; "Carbon build ups removal"

last question here, when the crank is set at O|T what should the valves look like which set of valves should be open and which should be closed. I think this would help me get things right and know whats going on.

Thanks Guys for your golden information.

[grave77]

if it was clogged what would it do or sound like? how can I clean this up too?

[632 Regal]

crank spins 2 rotations and cam spins 1 rotation.

break out the yahoo and I can try to help you again.

[grave77]

I will join in when am home ... I will be glad Jeff ... you've done it before ...

I have digged in old threads in bimmer http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=5403

there is cool stuff here about the TDC and other stuff too ..

I'm convinced that the TDC is off synch for sure ... 30 min and I will be off back home to complete what I started.

the only thing am worried about is replacing the valves cuz it was the toughest of all !! this valve pressing tool wasn't perfect.

still if I had to remove the head I will turn the engine without the head and see if I still have that damn sound.


One major question I had in mind, I was going to post a thread about it, is WHY WHY WHY the exhaust valves r smaller than intakes??

[grave77]

by the way ... this picture reminds me about my friends M20 325 engine .. he wanted to save 200Bux for a while so he postponed the timing belt replacement, for sure it cut off at 4500RPM and all the cylenders were broken, the best ones were like that picture, but most of them had the 2 valves hit and stuck in from the sides, engine was totally a piece of junk.

[632 Regal]

exhaust valves are smaller because the hot gas gets pushed out and the intake is pulled in which is harder to accomplish in a millisecond.

[Javier]

last question here, when the crank is set at O|T what should the valves look like which set of valves should be open and which should be closed. I think this would help me get things right and know whats going on.

Consider the following:

Distribution rotor (535i) will tell you which of the turns you are in, for cyl # 1, the top is ignition if rotor points to #1 spark plug, the next top is exhaust and rotor will point the opposite (2/1 turn radio Crank/Cam).

When # 1 is in ignition, both valves should be closed. Both valves should have been closed from about half turn of the crank shaft before top and will remain closed for about half turn after top.

The same will happen for the rest of the cylinders at 1/3 turn from TDC of the crankshaft in the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4 (2 turns to complete de cycle).

This will tell you if you are about it, but will hardly reveal a 1 tooth misalignment on the sprockets.

Javier

[grave77]

well ... you were all right, TDC was offset ... around 40 degrees. I set it back right and engine rotates ok. I got the compression meter
tested all cylinders
and all preserved good compression ... aroind 9.5 with unbedded valves and no oil up yet.

bolted it then started it ... started like it was off 5 min ago. bolted the head stage 3 .... and then made oil chage and drove it a while .. I think I will need to adj the valves later on again. some ticking was loud. but its alright.

Thanks to you all ... without you guys it was impossible to finish the job.

here are some pics of the final look .. since I painted the manifold in black and installed the black cover I made.

[E34-520iSE]

That's great news! I'm really pleased you've got it running again. Now go and set those clacky valves up and check for oil leaks. Then have a well deserved beer!

Cheers,

Shaun

[Jon K]

so... did you confirm valves are not bent or did you just reset the timing and assume? Seriously, if the valves are in any way bent, replace them, or you'll be asking for serious damage aka terminal.