oh god Barry... cant you line up some mars when at TDC? I sure hope you didnt bend all your valves but it's not sounding good.
when I removed the head, I made sure not to remove the chain of its wheel. so I would position the camshaft on the same position again and dont hussle into the timing settings.
I installed the head, then turned the camshaft to fit the position of the chain wheel. bolted everything together and turned it on...
I turned it on and a fast and loud ticking was heared. engine wouldnt start too. fast is like the speed of the engine when it's running idles 4 ticks / second.
would the camshaft take 2 positions one is totaly off synch. or is the the oil pump jamed since there was water in the oil and car was off for more than 24 hours.
please advice..... thanks
oh god Barry... cant you line up some mars when at TDC? I sure hope you didnt bend all your valves but it's not sounding good.
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
I'm with Jeff here, you should have set it all up to TDC, and after completion, turned the crankshaft by hand with a spanner a couple of turns, just so you could "feel" for valvegear jamming, before using the starter. I suppose we all live and learn......just hope there's nothing broken :-(
Cheers,
Shaun
but I didnt turn the crank shaft after removing the head also I didnt remove the chain wheel so I assume that it was holding the camshafts position.
take it manually to TDC, and check camshaft alignment? What about clearance of parts, tools and similar to the moving parts of the engine like fan, pulleys, and so?
Sorry I don't buy the 24 hour standing with water in the pump, may be something is loose or misplaced around.
Javier
Unfortunately assuming something will be okay is not the way to go.Originally Posted by grave77
Valve timing is critical and needs to be checked to ensure it is correct prior to reassembly.
I would have the valve timing rechecked by someone who has some experience and then correct it if it is wrong. Then perfom a compression test.
If you haven't bent any valves then thank your lucky stars. If you have, then put it down to an expensive lesson!
1990 E34 535iA, 215,000kms (130,000 miles).
Dual Climate, Rear Headrests, Rollerblind, M-Tech Wheel,
Memory Seats, EAT Chip, T-Stars.
In theory the cam position is the same as when it came off, so fingers crossed it will not have bent valves. Its good work practice tho to put it at TDC before u begin, and mark the sprocket/chain.
Couple of q's to clarify whats been done..
Did u dump all the old "milky" oil? As u indicate, it may be a case of no oil in the top end of motor. Manually oil can, wherever possible, you dont want it starting dry..
How did u ensure the chain is not moved at crank sprocket?
Turn it over by hand several times. You can then see if TDC and valve seem to be (sort - of) in sequence, feel if any resistance (bad), and start pump priming with oil.
You can also turn engine with starter and no plugs if confident of no mechanical problems, to prime the pump and not have the engine start dry.
that milk shake crap that oil turns into when mixed with water can clog the oil pump, seen it happen
all america wants is cold beer warm cat and a place to take a poop with a door on it
The cam remains under spring tension via the rockers and can easily move with the head off/on the bench, so it's a good idea to reset the engine on TDC and turn it over by hand one or two times with the head reinstalled.
I run a new filter and a case of cheap oil through the motor for about 10 minutes before draining after doing a head gasket with oil contamination.
How old are the bottom end bearings? How long was the car run with the oil contamination?
Also, was the spring tensioner pretensioned? A worn guide or a slack chain would make a ticking noise, almost identifiable as bad valve clatter. Have a look at the procedure:
http://www.koalamotorsport.com/artic...ntensioner.asp
If I were you, I wouldn't try to start the car again until I'd pulled the head and checked the valves/set the engine to TDC. Here's why:
That's 30 seconds of 3k rpm after dropping a valve.
best, whit
hummm ... well I feel better now since the engine didnt start, as I removed the spark plugs when I heared the sound. so it was only on starter.
the requency of the ticking was faster than the speed of the turning camshaft, I opened the valve cover to watch what was going on, I didnt see any hesitation in the camshaft rotation.
I also added the engine flush sort of oil as I wanted to run the engine for the 20 min before tensioning the head ( final 35NM stage )
chain tensioner was empty I tried to add some oil to bring on some tension but I think it was awaiting oil circulation.
it ran about a week with contaminated milky oil. but when I removed the valve cover oil seemed to be at the minimal contamination. especially at the top. I have no idea how was it down there.
I will check the TDC today while I was wondering about the camshaft. does a 360 rotation complete a full trip? 1 RPM = 360 degree on camshaft?
I didn't simply replace the gasket only, as I replaced the valves seals and basicly ported the head intakes; "Carbon build ups removal"
last question here, when the crank is set at O|T what should the valves look like which set of valves should be open and which should be closed. I think this would help me get things right and know whats going on.
Thanks Guys for your golden information.