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Thread: Subframe Mounts: Need Help to Finalize Tool for Mount Installation

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    555

    Default Subframe Mounts: Need Help to Finalize Tool for Mount Installation

    I had a tool built for me to remove the subframe mounts. Pulled the mount on the drivers side over the weekend. The tool worked great. Sorry I don't have a pic to show but it is based on one of the pictures Shogun showed a while back on "beer can" pullers. My question is, upon installation, is there a plate that covers the entire mount surface followed by a washer and nut, or is it just a washer and a nut? The picture Jeff N. shows on Brunos site next to point 11. in the installation instructions doesn't show clearly if there is a plate or not. I would assume that just a washers and nut against the through-bolt hole (or center metal sleeve) would put too much pressure in the center of the mount, and would probably rip this sleeve from the mount when turning the nut. I hope all this makes sense without a pic.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,148

    Default Hector , there is a plate as seen here, its the

    333122 shown in these pics....






    Quote Originally Posted by Hector
    I had a tool built for me to remove the subframe mounts. Pulled the mount on the drivers side over the weekend. The tool worked great. Sorry I don't have a pic to show but it is based on one of the pictures Shogun showed a while back on "beer can" pullers. My question is, upon installation, is there a plate that covers the entire mount surface followed by a washer and nut, or is it just a washer and a nut? The picture Jeff N. shows on Brunos site next to point 11. in the installation instructions doesn't show clearly if there is a plate or not. I would assume that just a washers and nut against the through-bolt hole (or center metal sleeve) would put too much pressure in the center of the mount, and would probably rip this sleeve from the mount when turning the nut. I hope all this makes sense without a pic.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    555

    Default This is great information Bill. Thanks a bunch.

    Coincidentally, the extractor plate (333121) is almost like the one I have except mine doesn't have those 2 wings that are diagonally separated from each other.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R.
    333122 shown in these pics....


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,148

    Default I'd like to find some of that circolight lube that they use.. According to the

    data sheet its miscible with rubber.. you can coat the piece with it for a lube and then its absorbed into the rubber in a short time.. Heres the description




    Quote Originally Posted by Hector
    Coincidentally, the extractor plate (333121) is almost like the one I have except mine doesn't have those 2 wings that are diagonally separated from each other.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    4,359

    Default

    Who in Sydney might have a set of these tools I wonder... I have a lot of work planned, but don't want to avoid doing the mounts if cos I can't get them out... does anyone know who could?

    Join the Aussie
    540i LE yahoo forum

    08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    555

    Default This interesting because...

    a while ago, when I was looking up some information on organic materials in rubber & organic PV, I came across this prediluted rubber lubricant used for lubricating rubber, o-rings and such. This stuff dried after application, had no mineral oils or solvents, non-toxic... but I didn't think anything of it--that it could be used to facilitate pressing a mount in. The stuff you mention sounds interesting, and being an experimentalist by trade, I probably would've given the Circolight a try. As you point out, it has all the right properties that are required for doing such a job.

    BTW, speaking of lubricants, I tried lubing the mount with water but that didn't work as it dried too fast and was distracting me from pressing the mount in. To help press the mount in easier without breaking the threaded case, I lubed the nut, washers, threaded case, plates with engine assemby lube. This made a big difference. Also, although a bit time consuming, after each half turn of the nut, I would wait for 15 sec or so and would give it another half turn and so on... This made turning the nut easier as the rubber of the mount would gradually deform and slip in during the wait period.


    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R.
    data sheet its miscible with rubber.. you can coat the piece with it for a lube and then its absorbed into the rubber in a short time.. Heres the description

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    261

    Default

    After doing this repair, what differences could you feel while driving the car? Were yours already broke or was this Preventive Maintenance?

    Was it worth the work?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    555

    Default It's kinda like what you describe in your thread but

    not as bad of symptoms... The fact that the car seemed to be steering itself made me look at the subframe mounts. I've only removed one mount as explained above. The old mount was cracked but much of the rubber seemed to be intact when compared to the new mount. Anyway, since my car has 185k mi, I thought I'd change them while in the mood.

    After I'm done with the mounts then I'll move on to the bushings and trailing arm links, and possibly then the struts because I seem to hear a loose strut mount or something when I drive over bumps. The dogbones have already been replaced. The trailing arm rubber mounts look good.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hypr5
    After doing this repair, what differences could you feel while driving the car? Were yours already broke or was this Preventive Maintenance?

    Was it worth the work?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,235

    Default

    Hector - give Don Gale a ring when you want to do the rear trailing arm bushings. He and I did them on my car a while back and it took many tens of tons to get those suckers out! It took a special press fixture + an awkward assortment of blocks and braces. In fact - if anyone out there has a better way I'd love to know it .

    - Robin
    Robin

    72 Chevy K10
    01 E39 M5

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    555

    Default Thanks much Robin. In fact, I've been wrestling...

    with ideas on how to take them out... doesn't look easy and it indeed looks awkward. Was thinking about having another tool made but don't want to wear out my welcome with the guy who built the puller for the mounts since it was a freebee. He is a good guy and would be willing to make me another puller but don't want to abuse... Yesterday, I found a machinist who has a shop in his back yard on the outskirts of town. He worked on some plates I had for adapting to the puller mounts. He doesn't seem greedy (he admitted to this,) and machining metal looks a like it's a second job/hobbie. I'd like to bounce the idea of making a tool off of this guy to see how much it would cost but first I might give Don a call as you suggest to see what I'm really up against.


    Quote Originally Posted by Robin-535im
    Hector - give Don Gale a ring when you want to do the rear trailing arm bushings. He and I did them on my car a while back and it took many tens of tons to get those suckers out! It took a special press fixture + an awkward assortment of blocks and braces. In fact - if anyone out there has a better way I'd love to know it .

    - Robin

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