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Thread: rebuilt head now no idle

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    5

    Default rebuilt head now no idle

    Okay, any of you foks that have rebuilt your m30 cylinder head - mine's together, she starts, she runs OK as long as I have my foot on the accelerator, but she dies as soon as I take my foot off, even at regular operating temperature. I checked the fault codes using the stomp on the pedal five times routine, and it's showing no faults, not even a idle actuator valve fault - so what gives? Any ideas? I'm lost at this point . . .

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Middle England
    Posts
    286

    Default

    After I did my head gasket over a summer weekend the Idle Control Valve gave a problem on reassembly... would only run above 1500 rpm with foot on throttle, so I cleaned the ICV and it gave a lovely smooth 800 rpm idle.
    I had no codes either, I figured the aluminium oxide surface deposits it gets probably dried and made it stick a lot.

    Its worth a try ... just use carb cleaner and an old toothbrush to get in the opening ... takes half hour tops, but make sure the valve rotates inside smoothly.

    (I assume the shaped hoses that connect to it are not leaking air)
    '90 535iSE Auto (AE+EAT) 123k miles
    '86 F288 69k miles
    '06('89)- PGE 2.0DOHC Turbo
    '03 A160LE 19k miles
    1914 Stellite E2A (no odometer!)
    (+ others I daren't mention here)
    www.pyghtle.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zygoteer
    After I did my head gasket over a summer weekend the Idle Control Valve gave a problem on reassembly... would only run above 1500 rpm with foot on throttle, so I cleaned the ICV and it gave a lovely smooth 800 rpm idle.
    I had no codes either, I figured the aluminium oxide surface deposits it gets probably dried and made it stick a lot.

    Its worth a try ... just use carb cleaner and an old toothbrush to get in the opening ... takes half hour tops, but make sure the valve rotates inside smoothly.

    (I assume the shaped hoses that connect to it are not leaking air)
    Genphreak - you were right, some throttle bottle cleaner, a tiny brush, and my baby runs good as new. I've been driving my wife's Acura TL sport AT. Lord, am I happy to have my five speed, rear wheel drive, "ultimate driving machine" back!

    Thanks to all for the good advice!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jmorton
    Genphreak - you were right, some throttle bottle cleaner, a tiny brush, and my baby runs good as new. I've been driving my wife's Acura TL sport AT. Lord, am I happy to have my five speed, rear wheel drive, "ultimate driving machine" back!

    Thanks to all for the good advice!
    Woops, sorry Zygoteer, it was you who was right - genphreak, is that a trailer hitch sticking out of your rear, or?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,640

    Default A few things to check:

    1 - check to make sure your throttle position sensor is triggering the idle circuit when you release the throttle.
    2 - vacuum leaks, got any? recheck all the hoses to the intake manifold,
    especially the ICV hose, booster hose and the 3mm hoses under the intake.
    3 - cam timing. are you sure you have it right? not on tooth advanced or retarded?

    That's where I would start.

    Jeff
    Bellevue WA
    90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
    86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    5

    Default

    Thanks, for the fast replies, I know I'm spot on with the cam gear and chain, I've had the upper timing cover back off to check it. The 3mm vacuum hoses are all new and connected. I'll continue to search for vacuum leaks, and I'll take the ICV off and clean it out. How do I check the throttle position sensor?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Clevedon
    Posts
    23

    Default

    The throttle position sensor should make a little "click" as soon as you touch the throttle. Check this in the engine bay and adjust with the little screws on the tps mounting.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    4,374

    Default

    Check if the air is the root cause by temporarily blocking off the recirc pipe going into the afm-throttle body pipe... if the engine idles, you will know if the leak is there, or in the inlet manifold...

    If you feel it is air leaks, have you checked the non-return valve take-off? It often breaks off giving you a leak through the brake booster pipe.. check the timing and head cover gaskets are all nicely sealed (Hylomar is the best stuff to use).

    Join the Aussie
    540i LE yahoo forum

    08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default I'm with Jeff, I don't believe its your icv and i would not clean it with

    carb cleaner, i would use throttle body cleaner. Carb cleaner can damage electrical components , I would triple check the cam timing again and verify that its not off... and then i would check one more time for vacum leaks since that what it sounds like is the problem.



    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff N.
    1 - check to make sure your throttle position sensor is triggering the idle circuit when you release the throttle.
    2 - vacuum leaks, got any? recheck all the hoses to the intake manifold,
    especially the ICV hose, booster hose and the 3mm hoses under the intake.
    3 - cam timing. are you sure you have it right? not on tooth advanced or retarded?

    That's where I would start.

    Jeff

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