1.4Kw .. what amps do you have? and speakers
u will need to add a capacitor on the tweeter line and midrange line too .. or they would blow and burn ur head unit. I have blown on tweeter when I first bought my car thinking that it already have it in its back. else as strap said it will go ok ... I personally like the OEM amp ... I just added my subs and tweeters in the back with standalone amps![]()
1.4Kw .. what amps do you have? and speakers
-inc
'91 e31 850
'90 e34 535
'02 CBR F4i stunt/track bike
'07 gsxr 750 stunt bike
I have in 2 amps 4 X 250W RMS bridged for 2 + 2 subs to be 2 X 500W and 2X150W RMS bridged on one full range 18" speaker in the back seat. I have 2 12" squared speaker shape they are as big as a 15" normal subwoofer, those are on the back shelf and I have 2 12" normal subs in a box on the back seat. 2 pizo tweeters and 2 6" midranges. click on my car pics in my signiture to see them. by the way I have a Kenwood DSP on the head unit as I use Creative Nomad III player with FM remote.
lmfao.. very creative use of the back seatbelts haha
what kind of amps are those? and subs..
-inc
'91 e31 850
'90 e34 535
'02 CBR F4i stunt/track bike
'07 gsxr 750 stunt bike
well I dont use brand names as they cost a lot. I bought them after I saw the PWM-PSU ( Pulse Width Modulation - Power Supply Unit ) inside as this is the thing that matters for high power amplifires. both of the amps I got have dual PSU and minimum drop at high power delivery. I had Kenwood 2 channels 100W X 2 before and it wasn't enough to drive the 2 squared speakers. also the PSU drop was high ... as it was dropping down to +/- 36V !! that makes it +17 - 0 - -17 not more than 40 Watts RMS !! with hell of distortion. the 4 X 250 drops down at max output to 75V from 85V and the 2 X 150W drops down to 65 from 75V
if I used a 1F capacitor or 2F maybe I will minimize it more ... but thats alright for the time being.
one of the amps is Classonic ( 2 channels ) and the other is something better than JEC ( 4 channels with Active crossover ).
Last edited by grave77; 11-19-2005 at 01:41 AM.
I tried connecting the enable pin B along with the audio signals, but there's still no sound. I'm now pretty sure that the back unit (it contains FM receiver along with an amp!) expects some sort of digital command from the head unit before it sends any sound to the loudspeakers. I heard a pop when connecting the enable pin, so I guess that the back unit turns itself on then, but it's not enough.Originally Posted by grave77
It probably would be possible to reverse-engineer the protocol between the head unit and the back unit, but that would be a pretty major project... Instead, I'll ditch the back unit along with the OEM head unit and replace it with a conventional amp. I can use the existing signal cable for the sound from the new head unit to the new amp and the speakers are wired as two pairs, so it should be just a fairly simple wiring job.
The only problem is the radio antenna, since the current antenna cable doesn't go to the dashboard, since the factory receiver is in the back... Why on earth did they do it this way, just to piss off the do-it-yourself stereo installers?![]()
since u heared the pop sound or " A Dub sound " in the speakers that means that the rear amp is OK ... first u need to make sure that the signal from the line out is audiable u can use an ear phone or a high impeadance headphones ( 600 Ohms ) to hear it. once u made sure its there. u go to the next point of attaching it to the plug. until now I don't know what u have on ur dash. but I was looking at the first post with the picture in, it shows all the connections needed but nothing related to the speaker Input to the rear OEM amp. that's the major problem here.
you should have 6 wires ... left common and right common LR front and LR rear. if u dont have those wires u will not be able to feed the OEM amplifire.
if u cant really find them ... add me on ur msn and I would help u up...