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Thread: Leaky clutch problem continued

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    404

    Default

    Bill, I think the difference is you see the cars that are leaking to the point that they aren't driveable any more, hence they are brought in for repair. Very few non-enthusiasts will pay to make a repair that isn't absolutely necessary. My E12, E21, E28 and E30 all displayed low clutch pedal engagement on occasion when parked outside in frigid weather, which I blame on internal leakage. Pedal returns to normal after several shifts. None had any external leaks. E34 & E36 haven't done this yet, but they stay warm in the garage.

    Paul Shovestul

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R.
    I stand corrected, let me put it another way , out of all the clutch masters that i've replaced i haven't yet seen one that bypasses internally without evidence of a leak at the boot... but i suppose after 30 years there's always a first time.
    Last edited by Bellicose Right Winger; 11-09-2005 at 07:09 AM.
    .....Got to keep the loonies on the paath.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    West Palm Beach, South Florida
    Posts
    1,011

    Default

    I ordered the grommets and the clutch slave from BMA, figured I'd just spend the $46 on it and if that wasn't it, oh well. Even though $46 is what I paid to the Indy to install it 2 years ago, I figured it wasn't too bad. Imagine my suprise when over the phone they told me it was $32! Sweet! Except that I wasn't over my $50 for free shipping, so I finally ordered my $60 R134a retrofit kit for my Volvo, except that they only wanted $34 for it! Great day at BMA!

    I was searching (yes, it does work) and found this thread here:

    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthr...ghlight=clutch and it sounds like he has my exact symptoms, so I PM'ed him and hopefully he can provide some specifics for his solution (if he solved it).

    Not to get this thread off on a tangent, but as far as people only bringing their cars in for repair when it absolutely needs it, well aint that the truth! I don't need to tell Bill that though. My Dad has been driving his Eclipse for about 6 months with the valve cover leaking so much oil onto the exhaust that blue smoke spews from the hood. I've offered to fix it for him many times, but he says that he doesn't have the time to get it fixed. Makes sense, right?

    Thanks for all your help guys. I should have an update when I install the grommets, clutch slave, and bleed the system.

    Do any autozone frequenters (I'm looking at your Ryan) know of a cheap pressure brake bleeder I can pick up, or do I have to make my own?
    93 525i / 01 330Ci / 98 Camry / 91 Volvo 240 / 99 Jeep GC

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Benneton (United Colors of)
    Posts
    3,067

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DanDombrowski
    I ordered the grommets and the clutch slave from BMA, figured I'd just spend the $46 on it and if that wasn't it, oh well. Even though $46 is what I paid to the Indy to install it 2 years ago, I figured it wasn't too bad. Imagine my suprise when over the phone they told me it was $32! Sweet! Except that I wasn't over my $50 for free shipping, so I finally ordered my $60 R134a retrofit kit for my Volvo, except that they only wanted $34 for it! Great day at BMA!

    I was searching (yes, it does work) and found this thread here:

    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthr...ghlight=clutch and it sounds like he has my exact symptoms, so I PM'ed him and hopefully he can provide some specifics for his solution (if he solved it).

    Not to get this thread off on a tangent, but as far as people only bringing their cars in for repair when it absolutely needs it, well aint that the truth! I don't need to tell Bill that though. My Dad has been driving his Eclipse for about 6 months with the valve cover leaking so much oil onto the exhaust that blue smoke spews from the hood. I've offered to fix it for him many times, but he says that he doesn't have the time to get it fixed. Makes sense, right?

    Thanks for all your help guys. I should have an update when I install the grommets, clutch slave, and bleed the system.

    Do any autozone frequenters (I'm looking at your Ryan) know of a cheap pressure brake bleeder I can pick up, or do I have to make my own?

    i drive a dodge stratus.......big time stuff


    anyway......i have a $5 one man brake bleeder from autozone. its a little pill bottle sized thing, has a magnet so that you can hang it above the bleeder (and accomplish the objective). problem is....i have an auto-magic transmission. i don't know what the diameter of the bleeder on the slave cylinder is, so i can't tell you if the hose would fit on there. depending on which hose you put on the end of the bleeder, it can go as small as the fuel pressure hose diameter (pretty damn small) or as big as a moderate size hose (bigger than aquarium air tubing) so long as you use a zip tie around the bleeder unit nipple to keep things nice and airtight. im thinking the only "clutch" bleeder you'd be able to pick up at most places is gonna be a mityvac looking affair, and at least $20 or more.


    i might be having some issues with bma. i didn't need to hear that you got anythign "cheap" from them. i've waited 8 days now for a 3 day priority mail package of a guibo. i might call them later today.
    "..Torchinski v. Peterson that it is legal to carry a concealed weapon, so long the weapon is totally slick like a huge ass machine gun that you carry under a trench coat, like in the Matrix."


  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default Paul what your describing isn't what i think of as the normal bypass when the

    bore is scratched /gouged or the cups have a cut/tear in them which allows the fluid to bypass.... what your describing is a cold weather symptom that we don't have here.. i suspect either the moisture in your brake fluid is freezing forming ice crystals under the cups edge allowing fluid to bypass until the ice crystals are displaced or melted or the rubber cups are so stiff from the cold that they aren't compliant enough to form a tight seal until they warm up slightly and become flexible.. None of which occurs here where it doesn't get much below freezing and the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid isn't ever an issue.. When i see one bypassing in the traditional worn sense its either the bore or seal that are actually damaged and always shows some signs of it at the bellows or dust boot when you squeeze it or fold it back to inspect..




    Quote Originally Posted by Bellicose Right Winger
    Bill, I think the difference is you see the cars that are leaking to the point that they aren't driveable any more, hence they are brought in for repair. Very few non-enthusiasts will pay to make a repair that isn't absolutely necessary. My E12, E21, E28 and E30 all displayed low clutch pedal engagement on occasion when parked outside in frigid weather, which I blame on internal leakage. Pedal returns to normal after several shifts. None had any external leaks. E34 & E36 haven't done this yet, but they stay warm in the garage.

    Paul Shovestul

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