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Thread: 540 starts, then dies

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    678

    Default 540 starts, then dies

    I have a rather odd problem with my '95 540/6. Sometimes when I start it, especially when cold, it will crank and start as usual, idle for maybe a second, then die. I start it again, and it runs great. It idles up like it's supposed to when cold, then slows down as it warms up. Overall it runs well. I recently did the upstream oxygen sensors, cleaned the TB and ICV. No codes or CEL. DME temp sensor maybe? Any ideas?
    Matt J.

    '95 540/6- Jim C. chip, Bilsteins, B&B, For Sale!
    -Sold
    www.wichitabmw.com

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    535

    Default

    My guess is a small airleak in the fuel line where the metal tube joins the rubber one, under the hood, over by the relays. New clamp or use heavy duty cable ties. I think you car is starting on what's left in the fuel rail. Then, because of a small leak (letting air in the line but not necessarily leaking), you have a bubble that stalls the car, then everything is fine once the pressure gets up again.
    o/______\o
    (Oo=00=oO)
    []=****=[]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    678

    Default

    So are you talking left side near the fuse/ relay box? Does the 540 have a fuel pump check valve?
    Matt J.

    '95 540/6- Jim C. chip, Bilsteins, B&B, For Sale!
    -Sold
    www.wichitabmw.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    535

    Default

    No, but it can be retrofitted cheaply as many have done. You can put it alot of places, but I like after the filters, right after where the two join back to one. There's some extra hose there and some breathing room before it turns into the metal pipe.
    o/______\o
    (Oo=00=oO)
    []=****=[]

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,148

    Default Yes it does have an integral check valve on top of the fuel pump, but if that

    was the problem you would have longer cranking times when hot. And if you have the leak at the fuel line that is mentioned below then you would smell gas.. My guess would be the icv or the contacts on the main or fuel pump relay.. i would start by cleaning all the connections and treating with stabilant 22


    Quote Originally Posted by onewhippedpuppy
    So are you talking left side near the fuse/ relay box? Does the 540 have a fuel pump check valve?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    678

    Default

    Never had a gas smell, and I just cleaned the ICV. I'll check the relay contacts.
    Matt J.

    '95 540/6- Jim C. chip, Bilsteins, B&B, For Sale!
    -Sold
    www.wichitabmw.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,148

    Default Just cleaning the icv doesn't mean that its working correctly, I'd clean the contacts

    on it as well... electrical connections on bmw's are very sensitive to small amounts of corrosion, not always visible. I get a fair amount of use out of my bottles of stabilant 22 on euro cars. Japanese cars never seem to have this problem.



    Quote Originally Posted by onewhippedpuppy
    Never had a gas smell, and I just cleaned the ICV. I'll check the relay contacts.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,756

    Default

    mine does the same type of rolling start, smooth then cuts back like the oil pressure bogs it down for a minute....obsure? Maybe this is a sympton of the oil drain back check valve? I havent noticed the oil pressure light staying on any more than usual though.
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Wichita, KS
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    Default

    Oddly enough, this morning I turned the key to #2 and let it sit for 5 seconds or so, then started it. No problem! This might support the ICV contacts, if there's too much resistance and it's responding slowly. Where can I get stabilant 22, or are there suitable alternatives?
    Matt J.

    '95 540/6- Jim C. chip, Bilsteins, B&B, For Sale!
    -Sold
    www.wichitabmw.com

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,148

    Default deoxit d5 is what i use to clean the terminals on the dme, temp sensor , afm, maf

    light bulbs etc basically every contact on the car with the exception of any of the connectors for the oxygen sensor. Bmw says no on the o2 sensor connectors. Then after cleaning them i treat them with stabilant 22 which is a connection enhancer and is recommended by bmw , vw, audi etc..
    Stabilant is available from Volkswagen with a vw part number of
    ZVW 186 001 STABILANT 22A or you can get it from a number of electronics shops if you check google or it has a napa part number of napa echlin CE-1, Borgwarner CL85 , Neihoff NL 5, partsplus CL85, Or from these guys who seem the most reasonably priced of the bunch.
    I haven't bought from them so i can't say how they are, Gordon got me mine a couple of years ago..



    Quote Originally Posted by onewhippedpuppy
    Oddly enough, this morning I turned the key to #2 and let it sit for 5 seconds or so, then started it. No problem! This might support the ICV contacts, if there's too much resistance and it's responding slowly. Where can I get stabilant 22, or are there suitable alternatives?

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