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Thread: Best Ways To Improve Mpg (all Enter) !!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    3,395

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SRR2
    Well, you don't have a lot of company there. Every owners manual that I recall reading that mentions the subject directs drivers to take off immediately at moderate acceleration and speed. Faster warmup under load means less water etc. blown into the crankcase too.
    I agree.

    It's written in the owner's manual, Mr. Camaro.


    best, whit

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
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    33

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    From personal experience, with my 1992 525 with GM4L30E Tranny: Do a fluid change and be sure you fill it with the correct level of fluid...drive it a day or two and then recheck the fluid level. This tranny is very sensitve to fluid levels and if you have too much your MPG will be down. In addition, clean your gear selector switch under the shifter cover. That too could contribute to low MPG and less than optimal performance if it's dirty. (One indication of this is that your LCD display may be missing some pixels.)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    NOR CAL
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    221

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    Ive never heard it was a good Idea to start your car and immediatly start driving it, but if thats what the owners manual says then they should know better thank I do. What ive heard is that 75% of engine wear occurs within the first couple minutes of driving so If you let it warm up those extra minutes then you will prolong the life of your engine. but bimmers are wierd.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    Bethlehem, PA
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    If the subject is mentioned, I've never seen an owner's manual for any car that doesn't give the same advice. Porsche says "Prolonged "warm up" idling wastes gas. Start the vehicle just before you are ready to drive. Accelerate slowly and smoothly." I don't have the Toyota any more, but it said something similar. Chrysler doesn't bring it up. It makes sense though. The idea is to bring the engine up to operating temperature ASAP to minimize fuel usage and condensation in the crankcase.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    NYC
    Posts
    479

    Default i try to keep it revs below 3k till the temp needle is in the middle

    valuable info in that owners manual. It was especially the case with the E30 ///M3. but man, that car HATED the cold.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Melbourne Australia
    Posts
    326

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    put your car on a diet. more weight more fuel used. dirve with nothing in the boot, 1/2 a tank of fuel or less and (sic) no spare.. take a can of tyre inflate. i wouldnt do this myself, but for some who stay clost to home it may be worht it.
    i get 21-23 mile / gal on my 540 on average over the last 20,000k
    1994 540i Auto

    live fast; die sideways
    13.3 @ 104mph (not in the 540)
    15.4 @ 150 Kph in the 540 (24/9/07)

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    4,374

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    Turning the A/C off helps of course... opening the windows/sunroof down in slow moving traffic so you cop all the fumes...

    Of course what som might have to do is downgrade our bigger motored e34s to 518/520/525 versions.... I'd personally like a late 525i with a small turbocharger set for ultra-economical operation- it'd have some oomph when u need it, but she'd hardly be a 540...

    GP

    Join the Aussie
    540i LE yahoo forum

    08/88 535i e34 M30+miller MAF, 'stiens, tints & teeth!

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Bethlehem, PA
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    I've had my E39 540i/6 a little over a month. It's turning in fuel mileage slightly higher than my '89 E34 535. Admittedly, it's a small sample size. Conclusion is that even with the big engine, that tall sixth gear combined with the V-8's diesel-like torque can wring a lot of travel out of a gallon of gas, and the concept of small engine => good economy, and large engine => gas hog isn't always true.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    4,150

    Default I would venture to guess that most of you haven't paid much

    attention to this issue in the past? There are a number of misconceptions out there...
    First off, driving it like there's an egg under the gas pedal doesn't always increase the mileage... An engine operates most efficiently near its torque peak , so instead of creeping off from a start you'll actually get better economy by accerating at a reasonable pace up to speed, not flooring it ,but not a snails pace up to speed either, the reason for this is based on your engines maximum efficiency rpm and load, thats why cars with cvt transmissions are more efficient. So accerate briskly but not wide open throttle, and once you get up to speed ,say 40 to 45 backing off on the gas until you're just maintaining speed,no more no less, try to be smooth and consistent. Anticipate lights and traffic,,, be the guy that pisses everybody off because you back off on the gas 300 yards before a light coasting ,waiting for it to turn green, every time you slow down requires more energy to get back up to speed, so slowing before lights and traffic so you don't have to come to a complete stop pays off.

    I try to do the same thing when making turns , if at all possible .
    There are a number of low rolling resistance tires out there nowdays that will make as much as 5% difference in gas mileage. Heres a link to a pdf file that was done in 2003 listing a number of low rolling resistance tires

    Obviously remove as much uneeded weight. Also on the subject of tires the narrower the tire you that you can get away and still enjoy the better off your are. Synthetic oils in the lightest weight that your engine specifies. 20w50 has more frictional losses than 5w30 does. This wastes fuel. Synthetic oils in the differential and gearboxes also, checking brakes for any drag when spinning freely. Airdams typically help mileage by reducing turbulence under the car... Some truck owners are picking up a couple of miles per gallon on the highway with airdams and making sheet metal belly pans for the complete underside of the trucks, the smoother the underside is the less drag. The iridium plugs i just put in a lexus owners car made by nippondenso claim a mileage improvement of just under 2.5%... not much but ever little bit helps.
    Obviously careful attention on tuneups will help, some of the new refrigerant substitutes for r12 claim to operate at much lower head pressures which would require less horsepower meaning greater economy, something to think about instead of just changing to r134a which has higher head pressures.
    Stry enough HID headlights will reduce alternator output needs helping to save consumptions. On weight savings some of the modern univeral batteries you can get as a replacement for the stock battery are much much lighter with the same output and reserve capacity.
    Led brake lights and other lights for the car use much less energy also , the only problem is you would have to fool the ccm since the current draw is different.
    If your o2 sensor has a 100k miles on it and hasn't been replaced a new one will usually help some.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    835

    Default Thank you Bill.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bill R.
    ... An engine operates most efficiently near its torque peak , so instead of creeping off from a start you'll actually get better economy by accerating at a reasonable pace up to speed...
    I've been spouting this to somebody for a while now. I think it is why my 535 likes 80+ mph on the highway, achieveing 28-30 mpg on roadtrips.
    Last edited by Martin in Bellevue; 09-09-2005 at 01:08 PM.
    erased due to slander

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