I could go for a 355ml canette of Pepsi right now. Nice pic.
This is the picture of the tricky part.
I will be working on the complete procedure soon.
The tricky part is to get the protective boot on the calliper and the piston.
The idea is to place the boot on the piston, right at the edge then install the boot on the calliper without having the boot slipping out of the piston.
After that you can slide the piston inside the calliper.
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'85 Euro 635csi Race Turbo, megasquirt, Group A
'92 525i Touring 5 speed, 3.46 diff, UUC 8.5lb flywheel, soon to be turbo.
'02 Subaru WRX Wagon with STI springs, bigger sway bars
I could go for a 355ml canette of Pepsi right now. Nice pic.
93 525i / 01 330Ci / 98 Camry / 91 Volvo 240 / 99 Jeep GC
1. Place the boot on the seat on the caliper first
2. Begin to slip the piston in through the boot.
3. Remove the bleed screw and used compressed air through that inlet to expand the boot around the piston as you work it in.
4. Eventually the back of the piston will hit the seal ring and you should stop using compressed air. If you accidentally use too much compressed air and the piston decides to shoot out, it may hit your fingers if they are in the way.....don't want that
ewww...working with hydraulic fluid is my least favorite part car work.
Well, that and working under the dash.
Well, that and when Martin farts.
yeah..that pretty much covers it.
Bellevue WA
90 535iM - not much stock remains. 3.7 liters, ported head, cammed, 3.73 diffy, M5 brakes, MAFed, yadda yadda yadda
86 Porsche 951 - Track Toy
Originally Posted by Jeff N.
even old acidic coolant?
Originally Posted by Tiger
Would a tool to help guide the seal help? Solder aid sticks work well with seals. They are made from Teflon and have a spade end and a pointed end.Originally Posted by Bruno
Thanks for the info on the caliper rebuild. With balmy weather starting again in MS, I should be able to start mine soon. And finally use my homemade brake bleeder!