Help removing nuts at exhaust header

[mjfeeney4]

Any suggestions on removing the 13mm nuts which attach the exhaust to the header? The appear to be copper and are slightly rusted. sprayed on liquid wrench this weekend. The 13 mm socket was too big due to rust removal but 12mm or 1/2" were too small.

Should I try hammering on the 1/2" socket? What about heating the nuts with a tourch first to make removal easier. I'm open to suggestions.

Mike Feeney

[Mr Project]

PB Blaster. Great stuff, seriously. Soak it and let it sit overnight. Other than that, yes, pound a 1/2" socket on, heat it up a little, etc. They get tough, but they're doable. Great motivation to spend the $12 for all new hardware before you put it back together!

[Kalevera]

I would use heat -- anything more than a little bit of resistance, and you need it. The metal studs are too soft and they can easily be destroyed (don't ask how I know).

Given that heat doesn't work (it should) and you have access to an air chisel, one should quickly remove that kind of nut.

By the way -- use PB blaster.

best, whit

[mjfeeney4]

I've never seen PB Blaster in the US, but then again I've been using WD-40 or Liquid Wrench. Is PB Blaster really different, that I should try to locate some before this weekend?

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm concerned about breaking the studs and then a simple flex disk replacement is going to get really complicated ( removing manifold or even the head)

[dacoyote]

AutoZone in Ohio carries PB blaster

[Bellicose Right Winger]

Try a six-point 13mm socket and heat from a propane torch. Be sure to use copper paste on reassembly.

Paul Shovestul

Any suggestions on removing the 13mm nuts which attach the exhaust to the header? The appear to be copper and are slightly rusted. sprayed on liquid wrench this weekend. The 13 mm socket was too big due to rust removal but 12mm or 1/2" were too small.

Should I try hammering on the 1/2" socket? What about heating the nuts with a tourch first to make removal easier. I'm open to suggestions.

Mike Feeney

[DanH]

My exhaust header had 12mm nuts. When I was removing them, 8 came off fine, 2 came out with the studs and the 2 by cylinder #6 were frozen, so the studs snapped off.

Now I need to get the remnants of the studs from my head. Good thing I was taking the head off anyhow... I'm getting some expensive craftsman drill out bits/extractor type things, they better work or else I'll have to get professional help(for my sanity).

[DanH]

I see you're doing the flex disc. When I replaced the center bearing on my car, to remove the exhaust, I just disconnected it at the output end of the manifold where the springs are. It was much easier than worrying about snapping an exhaust stud in the head.

I snapped one of the other bolts anyhow, but it is easier to deal with than one in the head.

Good Luck,

[LMUNick]

It may be a little late in the game, but I know this problem well. My father (factory trained BMW tech) had a great solution: shoot some penetrating oil on the nuts (wurth hhs 2000 is great). let it soak. Then use a 1/2" to 3/8" impact extension with a 3/8 drive impact wobble socket. you can use a 12mm and grind it out or hammer a 1/2" on to it. The 12mm will usually have a smaller diameter to allow more room agaisnt the pipe. If you have an impact, zap it a couple times, or use a big breaker bar and some elbow grease. Good luck!

Any suggestions on removing the 13mm nuts which attach the exhaust to the header? The appear to be copper and are slightly rusted. sprayed on liquid wrench this weekend. The 13 mm socket was too big due to rust removal but 12mm or 1/2" were too small.

Should I try hammering on the 1/2" socket? What about heating the nuts with a tourch first to make removal easier. I'm open to suggestions.

Mike Feeney

[Gene in NC]

Try a nut splitter.