Help removing nuts at exhaust header

[mjfeeney4]

Several posts have warned about breaking off the studs, and yes I'm removing the exhaust after the header (or manifold) because the bolts at the head looked even harder to remove.

Have others tried to use a tool to split the nuts on a 6 cylinder exhaust (M50)? It may turn out that after letting the solvent work on the nuts, they'll come off this weekend. It may be a tight fit but I'll purchase a nut splitter if it prevents breaking the studs and having to remove even more of the engine to have the broken studs drilled out.

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

[Kalevera]

Michael -- let me reiterate that the metal used in the OE fastener hardware is quite soft, and I've messed up threads (beyond using a die to fix them) and cracked flanges due to using some of these more "forceful" approaches. If it doesn't come off after a good PB soaking and a light wrench/socket, I'd get heat on it and it'll be off in a second.

best, whit

[mjfeeney4]

Lowell; Will go with your suggestion. Have sprayed with WD40 for a few days and will use heat before trying to remove them.

[LMUNick]

Just be careful to make sure that you don't shoot a bunch of wd-40 on right before you put the torch on it. wd-40 is super flammable.

best of luck!

Lowell; Will go with your suggestion. Have sprayed with WD40 for a few days and will use heat before trying to remove them.

[Robin-535im]

Is to *tighten* them a 1/8 turn before trying to loosen them. I learned this trick from Winfred and it really does work. There's much less chance of breaking anything, and all you really need to do is break the bond and it will back out really easy after that. I use this trick all the time now whenever I have a skinny little rusted nut or bolt. Just turn it in until it pops and breaks the bond and you're all set.

And please do try the PB blaster. It works. I've used WD-40 and Liquid Wrench for years and never thought they really did much, but PB blaster kicks butt! I used it on a rusty old O2 sensor after all else failed. Just let it sit a while, re-spraying and whacking the bolt with a wrench every now and then to let it settle in.

HTH

- Robin

[mjfeeney4]

After using PB blaster and letting it soak for a day the bolts came off easily. One problem though is that one of the studs came off with the nut. Was planning on just treading back into the manifold when replacing the exhaust.

Any suggestions on reinstalling the stud. Should I purchase a new one?

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

[Kalevera]

Hmmm...depends on how much trouble you want or need to go through with it. I'm assuming it's the 3 bolts per flange setup. You can probably get away with using two studs. If the threading's still good, it might be just as easy to replace the stud (I haven't done it -- I would probably try to find a good substitute).

best, whit

[Mr Project]

All of the hardware, nuts and studs, was under $20 from the dealer, IIRC. It's a no-brainer in my opinion. Make sure to use anti-seize when you install the new hardware and you're good to go for the rest of the car's life.