Replace the whole arm w/ bushings. Cost isn't that much more, and yes, the ball joints on the arms give after some time and cause some clunking in the front end.
Other stuff to look at replacing, tie-rods, links, idler arm, shocks.
OK so which way do you think I should go?
My 535i has got ~125k miles on it and I get a bad shudder at 55mph under braking.
I plan on replacing rotors and pads all around later on this year and would like to concentrate on freshening up the suspension.
So as far as thrust arms go, would it be easier/better to replace the entire assembly or just change bushings? In the Bentley it says I need a special tool to replace thrust arm bushings, which makes me think it may not be worth all the extra effort just to replace bushings.
Do thrust arms "give out?" Any improved thrust arms/other suspension components I could replace that would make a substantial improvement to my ride?
1990 BMW 535i 5 speed - Black on Grey, LSD
Replace the whole arm w/ bushings. Cost isn't that much more, and yes, the ball joints on the arms give after some time and cause some clunking in the front end.
Other stuff to look at replacing, tie-rods, links, idler arm, shocks.
The consensus on the board is usually to replace the whole arm and use the ones that have the 750il bushings pressed in.
Al
91 535iA
Seeing as how you have to remove the arms anyways, ya might as well just put new ones on.
Replace whole arm with 750il bushing... yes, the ball joint on the thrust arm is a concern at 125K.
Can I pick up a thrust arm with 750il bushing compatible to the E34 OEM?
Is it really an OEM 535i thrust arm with 750il bushing pressed in aftermarket?
1990 BMW 535i 5 speed - Black on Grey, LSD
www.bmaautoparts.com call and ask for patrick of yves. they sell pre-pressed 750il bushings with the correct thrust arm for 99~lemforder.
www.KaRealtySF.com
Build Date: 05-1995 /Engine: m50tu /Automatic Transmission /ABS /NO ASC /Open Differential /EAT Chip
You may want to consider the M5 bushing over the 750i ones. The M5 is an even more robust design than the 750. The differences were recently discussed on UUC and may presently be in the archives on the web site.
Actually just pressing in a new bushing is much cheaper than replacing the entire arm FWIR, but at 125+k, the ball joint is probably heading south anyway.
Now: your 55mph shimmy could be warped rotors, which is not something I, personally, would leave until later on this year. If they're warped after normal/non track driving conditions, then they're probably well worn and in need of attention.
best, whit
Last edited by Kalevera; 05-07-2005 at 10:20 PM.
I'd rather pick up parts from the stealer.
Any OEM recommendations/thrust arm upgrades welcome.
1990 BMW 535i 5 speed - Black on Grey, LSD
Whit you're right, I think the shimmy is a combination of both thrust arms and rotors... I have some pretty crappy rotors on right now (X drilled from the PO) with their old pads, but they've still got some life left and I rarely get up to 55 at any driving event (auto X)... I'd like to get my suspension refreshened a little and I have a bike that needs maintenance so until the pads give out my rotors will stay in.Originally Posted by lowell
1990 BMW 535i 5 speed - Black on Grey, LSD