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Thread: Ouch!! Broken Rockerarm. What is the next step?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    8

    Default Ouch!! Broken Rockerarm. What is the next step?

    1990 535 / m30 / Automatic

    OK Drove to work just fine. On way home lost all power and heard knocking, 5 blocks from drive way, I nurse it in. Pop Rock Cover and find out 1 and 4 Rocker arms are broken on the intake side.

    I was informed that the upper end was rebuilt 30k ago. I do not belive this now as the cam shows much more ware than 30k. Car has 230K on it. Have a receipt for a new head gasket in 02. But no docs on new parts besides gasket. So I now want to fix it right. Please help in guidance.

    What would cause break? Or is it just age?

    What is the best fix? Pull head and rebuild?

    Is there a place that I can order a new head/rebuilt rdy to go head?

    I am in Seattle WA. Is there a good BMW Head guy around in the NW?

    Can you guys help point me in the right direction on next steps?

    Thank you in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Elm Grove Farm, NC
    Posts
    770

    Default

    It's like deja vu all over again!!

    Sorry to make light of your trouble, but the same thing happened to us in the wife's '91 535iA at about 130k miles. PO had a "rebuilt" head installed at approx 80k for some reason, but it was a POS rebuild- the head casting was all scarred up in one of the combustion chambers and they reused the rockers. On our car, it looks like one of the valve seats failed and put alot of stress on that rocker, so it failed + broke.

    IMHO, the only way to do it right is to pull the head and do a complete top end rebuild. This means pulling the head, having a competent machine shop check it for cracks or other damage, check for warping and resurfacing if necessary, perform a "valve job" which is basically cutting a fresh surface on the valve seats + grinding the valves to fit, replace ALL of the rocker arms, check + replace rocker shafts if necessary, then reinstall using a new head gasket.

    I am lucky to have a good machine shop locally that is familiar with BMW heads, so I have no experience with purchasing "rebuilt" heads- but the head that we had to fix was from a "reputable" source installed by a high-end independent shop- YMMV.


    Good luck, I'm sure we can help walk you through it if you need help.


    Bret.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Thank you for such a quick response. I am mechanial enought to pull the head and I have a Bently manual to help guide. I do not have head work experience, so that part is a bit scary.

    Is there anyone out there that can recomend a good machine shop in the greater Seattle Area?

    Also where to buy parts? BMA? Other?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    3,395

    Default

    You probably want to talk to the Bellevue crowd on the board before doing anything. Some of those guys are M30 experts. I also *think* Dave535Phoenix had a similar problem/broken rocker arms recently, so it might be wise to contact him....

    ....yup, I was on the money:

    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=8797
    http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=8824

    BMA's the best place, IMHO, for the parts. You probably already know that.

    Best, whit

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    835

    Default There are a couple shops, east-sayide.

    There's Mike, at Kirkland Machine Shop, 425 822-8216.

    I liked Phil, in Renton, at Highland East Auto, 425 288-6364. The address is 4616 NE 4th St, Renton 98059. I spent about $400 with Phil installing new guides, resurfacing head, grinding valves & some such.

    I remember Erick using a machinist somewhere in downtown hippieland.

    Wonder why the thing broke rockers after 30k miles?
    erased due to slander

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    8

    Default

    Thanks for the contacts in the Seattle area. I do not belive that there was any upper end work done except for the gasket 30k ago.

    I was wondering though as I am about to start to tear it down. What all should be replaced. And should it all be OEM or is there a better substitute.

    I would assume that doing the timeing chain at the same time would be a good idea?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    113

    Default

    Think the motor could've over revved? That's usually the only thing I hear of causing this problem.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    8

    Default

    I could have been pushing 6k in the last few days. Had some fun weekend dirving. But not this morning. So my guess is that I might haved damaged the Rocker Arms a day or two ago and it failed today. It is a theory any how.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    174

    Default

    ah memories, memories,

    its a full top end rebuild for you
    sorry mate

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane, Australia
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Same thing happened to me about a year ago. Was just driving along and all of a sudden I noticed a loss of power and a knocking noise. I wasn't driving hard or over revving it, it just happened. Took the rocker cover off and #6 exhaust valve rocker was broken. Ended up with a top end rebuild as the cam was worn and it was due a head gasket. Anyone know why the rocker arms break? are they just a bad design?

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