Reply With Quotei was looking to that same head unit last week. quick question can you adjust the bass/treble level on that? I have an older model and it bugs me that i can't adjust my bass and treble!!
Major Contributor
95 530i Aftermarket Stereo
I am installing an aftermarket headunit into my 95 530i The model number for the unit is JVC -KD-SHX750. I wanted to know if there is a way that I can still route the audio through the factory amp used to power the 8 speakers in the vehicle. Any Suggestions? I have already purchased the wiring harness for the head unit as well.
whoa
i was looking to that same head unit last week. quick question can you adjust the bass/treble level on that? I have an older model and it bugs me that i can't adjust my bass and treble!!
Major Contributor
Run speaker outs to the trunk...
Originally Posted by saj3n
...then open the factory booster amp. Take off the board attached to the top heatsink and feed the new HU wires to the exposed pins. You'll have the factory wiring all working in your favour, plus the crossover will send the correct frequencies to the relevant speakers.
This shot shows the amp with the cover off (later model with SMT parts):
This shot shows where to attach the wires (early model with through-hole parts). The white wire is the remote switch lead for another amp:
Here's a close-up of which pins to use. Polarity is --/++ all the way across. All of the --/++ were separate on my 2 cars, not connected to chassis:
HTH,
Anthony
Last edited by Anthony (M5 in Calgary); 04-28-2005 at 01:25 PM.
Big, Big Time Poster
I just put in JVC KD-AR5000. Sounds way better than stock, even without an amp. Right now its holding by the duck tape and a crappy bracket that I've found in my basement. Still need to connect the antenna, but so far I'm amazed with the difference in quality. By the way anyone wants to buy stock cd changer. I believe it's the Pioneer one. Works great. If anyone is interested in it email me at TheDuke@iname.com
Major Contributor
Are you able to use all of the speakers in the vehicle. Because I know that when I took my first E34 in before I was confident with installing stereos myself, they bypassed the factory amp, but I was not getting power to the mid ranges on the dash, nor to the tweeters in the back or front, because the reciever only has 4 channels out. I know that if I wired through the factory amplifier, it would use the built in crossovers as well for the tweeters. Unles, you have found a way for the audio to play out of all 8 speakers, without harmonic distortion from the tweeters, and mid's when hitting lower notes....
Major Contributor
Yes you can. This one, as well as most of the JVC units now, have the built in equalizer that you can use to manually adjust each frequency that the stereo outputs so it is even more effective when attempting to maintain that perfect sound.
Major Contributor
Thanks Anthony,...then open the factory booster amp. Take off the board attached to the top heatsink and feed the new HU wires to the exposed pins. You'll have the factory wiring all working in your favour, plus the crossover will send the correct frequencies to the relevant speakers.
This shot shows the amp with the cover off (later model with SMT parts):
This shot shows where to attach the wires (early model with through-hole parts). The white wire is the remote switch lead for another amp:
Here's a close-up of which pins to use. Polarity is --/++ all the way across. All of the --/++ were separate on my 2 cars, not connected to chassis:
HTH,
Anthony
I have yet to try this, I do have a question for you though. I was speaking with the folks at crutchfield and they informed me that it would be possible to wire directly to the amplifier using the harness, and this device PAC OEM-2. What are your ideas regarding this?
Major Contributor
I don't think you need it...
The adapter would take the high power output from the JVC to drive the low power input to the factory amp which is only 10W x 4. The factory HU has about 4W/ch out. The JVC amp you bought says it has 52W x 4, more than enough to blow the $hit out of your factory speakers. Just run 4 pairs of 18-16ga speaker wire from the HU to the trunk then follow the pix. If anything is unclear post back.
This will allow the exact use of the factory crossover without having to pull any of the wiring directly to speakers. Run the speaker wire across (behind) the driver's kneepad then down the kick, and along the driver's side rocker panel (you'll have to remove the rocker trims then pull the carpet away a bit). Push the wires way down into the padding next to the rocker panel. There's a nice big grommet in the rear seat panel which exits at trunk floor level behind the trunk liner panel. The factory amp is on the driver's rear behind the wheel.
You won't be able to drive the factory speakers very hard as they're only rated about 30W but they sound pretty good.
I'm using all of the factory speakers but using a 5 channel amp and only driving 80Hz and above to them. The system is supplemented by a small sub. You can see parts of my system on www.bmwe34.net under the stereo section.
HTH,
Anthony
Major Contributor
if ur using a 4 output stereo u will need to cross the 2 commons together ... example: front left and rear left has 1 common sometimes they provide 4 wires so u need to cross the 2 commons to the amplifier input common, the same for the right. the amplifer used in BMW has low impedence input so u dont need to worry about the distortion unless the stereo u bought has more power than the BMW amp.
BMW amp uses the TDA2005 IC ... its a 10W X 2 or 18W BTL ( Mono Bridged ) I remember that it had 4 ICs inside ... with a passive crossover for the tweeters ... so this is powerfull enough ... some stereos has power upto 25W X 4 but that's not so real. BMW amp is close the the max power that can be delivered from 12V power supply. if u want more then u need to install an Amp with PWM power supply and that would be a different stroy.
if u had a problem I can draw u a simple wiring schematic for ur system ... I have the same setup with 2 more high power amplifers.
Big, Big Time Poster
Well ****, of course that helps. That's damn good info.
It's coming about two years too late for me, goddamnit.
For the record, I'm running a pair of passive crossovers off a friend's blown Infinity Kappa Perfects to drive the front tweeters, and it sounds lovely. Had I known this, it would've been (relatively) simple to get all speakers working at the actual, correct crossover.. Damn.
Genius, Anthony. Genius.
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