Control Arm Question - aren't they all the same?

[BigKriss]

I want to get new lower control arms and upper thrust arms without bushings for both and press some polyurethane bushings in from www.gruntsbushings.com. With the bushing issue aside, the only other component that can wear out is the ball joint for the lower control arms and on the upper thrust arms, there's the balljoint and I don't know what else on that component.

Are Lemforder balljoints and the type / strength of steel or aluminum superior to say TRW or melye? Is it worth the extra cost? I'm not complaining about the cost to begin with.

[BigKriss]

"The Lemforder control arms are better only because the boot on the ball joint is better and they last longer. Now seeing that you track car, you end up replacing the thrust arms almost once a year regardless. The lower control arms should last a long time. They don't experience the same type of strain. If possible you always want to use Lemforder as a general rule."

[genphreak]

"The Lemforder control arms are better only because the boot on the ball joint is better and they last longer. Now seeing that you track car, you end up replacing the thrust arms almost once a year regardless. The lower control arms should last a long time. They don't experience the same type of strain. If possible you always want to use Lemforder as a general rule."

I reckon Patrick is right on there. However, you can buy ball joint boots for a few bucks, u just have to remove the joint to fit them. GP

[infinity5]

please let us know how the bushings work out. i've never heard anyone comment on their street use. I'd love more stiffness in the car and longevity in the bushings but i'm worried about noise and vibration.

[genphreak]

please let us know how the bushings work out. i've never heard anyone comment on their street use. I'd love more stiffness in the car and longevity in the bushings but i'm worried about noise and vibration.

I have them in mine, but can only compare them to life with worn originals However my Lower Contral Arms are in need of replacement, so what I feel now is not that good either. Once this is done will have all new, so can tell you the results. What I can say is the bushing look very, very solid. Mr Grunt is in Australia, and I got these bushings relatively cheap from local suspension shop, next door to the Australian Bilstein distributor.

I'll post a thread once i add the LCAs (mine are bad) so you can find out

GP

[Kalevera]

Actually...I was just thinking that the TRW (er...Hamburg whatevers) that I got from FCP seem to have weak ball joint covers. I'm sure they could be covered with some other kind of sealant to help prevent future damage (?)

Somehow, I'm accepting it as fact that I'll have to replace them in a year or so. Guess it'll be lemforder at that point.

Best, whit

[BigKriss]

are aluminium arms worth the extra money? Or is it best to just go with steel?

[Jon K]

are aluminium arms worth the extra money? Or is it best to just go with steel?

No, go steel. Aluminum is lighter but weaker. Steel also helps give some weight to the steering a little bit. Just go with steel.

[BigKriss]

thanks mate. just wanted to make sure

[Mobius]

No, go steel. Aluminum is lighter but weaker. Steel also helps give some weight to the steering a little bit. Just go with steel.

Correction: The forged aluminum arms are lighter and as strong (more than likely stronger) than the steel. FYI. The aluminum bars reportedly have slightly higher quality ball joints - but that's probably hearsay.

Still not worth the price; but you'll never bend the aluminum arms - and you probably won't bend the steel ones either.

(as a reference: http://www.m535i.org/officers/ra/e24article.html)

Eh; more info: http://bimmer.roadfly.org/bmw/forums...5219159-1.html
Even though that's in re E30 control arms; I'd imagine the same applies as the aluminum arms on both models are the 'motorsport' versions.