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Thread: My Key in steering column turns and feels empty car won't start!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    southern calif
    Posts
    12

    Default you are right on the whole mechanism

    You are so right on the complete mechanism having to be replaced. My son went to the stealer yesterday and had to purchase the whole complete steering lock mechanism (i think that is the right description). He is a mechanic by trade and was able to get it for a better cost ($96). I have seen others post this for quite a bit more....

    No, I wish I was McGyver! But it was funny, my son played with it for 20 minutes or so, then he went home and I gave it a try and after 5 minutes was going to give up...and pull the key out...and BAM...out came the whole cylinder! I was quite surprised (not to mention pleased!).

    It looks like from everyone's comments the whole steering wheel has to be pulled off??? I was hoping that didn't have to happen, but I figured you did have to unplug a orange wire for the air bag?!? before you even begin. Also looks like this will be a challenge to accomplish to say the least.

    He will be starting this (I hope) by tomorrow evening (thursday) after work...so I hope he can get this done in one evening as I really really miss my car!!

    Also my key cylinder was perfectly fine also the switch.

    Thanks for your help....I will follow up on the outcome of the procedure.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    southern calif
    Posts
    12

    Default one last question

    When you disengage the airbag and remove the steering wheel, I assume you first must disconnect the battery?

    By doing so, after you reconnect the battery, what issues have to be addressed, i.e. resetting the code on the radio, also the automatic door lock/alarm system? What other things have to be done?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    296

    Default

    For sure disconnect the battery before removing airbag, or you'll be paying the dealer for a reset... Make sure you have your radio code if it the stock system.
    DanH
    1989 535iA 254k Miles
    1992 535iM 330k Miles

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    28

    Default

    I tried like hell to get that thing out with an allen wrench, graphite dust, and a six pack. All I got was drunk and mad. The mechanic has a special tool. He said that it's not just the downward force that disengages it, but a notch at the end that does it.
    Keeevin
    '95 525i 5-speed

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Eastern Tennessee USi
    Posts
    14,843

    Default

    huh?
    95 E34 530I V2.37
    ===========
    Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.

    John F. Kennedy

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    southern calif
    Posts
    12

    Default did you take off the outside plastic ring?

    Quote Originally Posted by K_Po_Uno
    I tried like hell to get that thing out with an allen wrench, graphite dust, and a six pack. All I got was drunk and mad. The mechanic has a special tool. He said that it's not just the downward force that disengages it, but a notch at the end that does it.
    We removed the plastic outside ring (with the elec connection on it) by prying it off with a screwdriver. I think a diagram refers to this as a "ring antenna adapter"....but anyway, that was off first along with the rubber o-ring behind it.

    Like I said, I was just taking my left hand and over and thru the steering wheel and kind of twisting on the key lock cylinder while my "paper clip" tool (lol) was shoved into the hole by the key. And it was really strange it just popped off when I was going to let go and give up.

    Dont know if you had removed that ring piece or not or if you had to anyway already to even get to this point, but maybe that helps.

    I am now one step closer to getting this done as I now have the "interlock steering lock" part #3231160278 which is the whole casting....so next step is to tackle the job and get out the chisel and hammer..

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    134

    Default

    I am having same problem except I was at a friends house. Now my car is stranded on the street in front of his house. A kid in his neighbirhood has already ran into my car on his bicycle and put a huge gouge in the paint on the driver door and knocked off my mirror. The mirror pops right back on, but now I have to get the pint fixed too.

    I will go over there to remove key housing and tumbler to verify that the steerig column locking mechanism is causing my problem.

    Will I be able to hotwire my car or start it by any means at all in order to get it home where I can do the repair? Or will a tow truck be required?
    92 525i w/ Eibach lowering, Bilsteins, KMAC, Dinan chip, low temp coolant switch, K&N replacement air filter, UUC short shifter, RD strut brace, blacked out, 17" Borbets

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    1,853

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bissellh
    I am having same problem except I was at a friends house. Now my car is stranded on the street in front of his house. A kid in his neighbirhood has already ran into my car on his bicycle and put a huge gouge in the paint on the driver door and knocked off my mirror. The mirror pops right back on, but now I have to get the pint fixed too.

    I will go over there to remove key housing and tumbler to verify that the steerig column locking mechanism is causing my problem.

    Will I be able to hotwire my car or start it by any means at all in order to get it home where I can do the repair? Or will a tow truck be required?
    If, and only if, you can get the lock tumbler to pop out, you should be able to just start the car with a screwdriver into the tumbler housing...

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    134

    Default

    My key works just fine. I think it is the steering locking mechanism that is broken. I am not sure how removing the tumbler and barrel would help me. But, I will try it.
    92 525i w/ Eibach lowering, Bilsteins, KMAC, Dinan chip, low temp coolant switch, K&N replacement air filter, UUC short shifter, RD strut brace, blacked out, 17" Borbets

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    134

    Default

    I was not able to remove the lock cylinder from the steering column. I tried for an hour with a heavy duty paper clip and the smallest allen key I have with no luck. I followed the instructions from the write up on bimmer board. It said to first turn the key to position 1 before attempting to release the cylinder with a stiff wire or other similar instrument keeping that instrument angled toward the key and not perpendicular to the key. I have to assume that position one is the auxillary position between the off and start position. I tried every position but had no luck release the darn thing.

    Any other suggestions on how to remove the ignition key cylinder???

    BTW, should I start anthother thread instead of piggybacking this one?
    92 525i w/ Eibach lowering, Bilsteins, KMAC, Dinan chip, low temp coolant switch, K&N replacement air filter, UUC short shifter, RD strut brace, blacked out, 17" Borbets

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