Got in my 535i yesterday & the ignition key won't turn past the steering lock. The key slides in freely & turns slightly until it hits the lock but thats it. I've tried jiggling the steering wheel & turning the key but no joy. Since you can't turn the key the ignition lock assy can't be removed & I pulled the switch assy off the other end but that doesn't reveal much. Is there any way to access the actual s/w lock mechanism externally? It seems to be hidden up inside the cast housing and I'm running out of ideas.
Originally Posted by shogun
Once you can turn the key removing the barrel as shown in that link is easy. The problem is I can't turn the key anywhere near the release point. I'm going to try a much more agreesive approach to getting the key to turn so I can pull out the lock barrel. Its going to have to be replaced anyway & I'd hate to have to drill it out.
mine did this a couple time and thought i was dead in the water many many miles from home, kept messing with it , the steering wheel, the shifter deal etc, over and over and it finally worked...not fun swore id fix it but it never happened again. thats my suggestion, keep screwing with it.
95 E34 530I V2.37
===========
Those who make peaceful revolution impossible will make violent revolution inevitable.
John F. Kennedy
Yeah, same happened to me - kept jiggling and trying to turn the key - eventually it turned. When you get the key to first position (60 degrees from lock position) you then poke a stiff wire in the little hole and poke about for maybe ages until you push in the little pin to release the lock cylinder. The wire needs to go in about 22mm (7/8") to release the cylinder.
In many cases, mine included, the problem was a faulty steering lock - there was nothing wrong with the lock cylinder.
If the steering lock is the problem, you are faced with replacing the steering lock casting which is a bit more involved.
bill g
After getting much more agressive with the steering wheel jiggling & key twisting I got it freed up but each time you remove the key it reverts back. I have a new lock barrel coming next week as it does feel funky so hopefully that will cure the problem. If not I guess I'll have to pull the casting off the column & have a look but I'm hoping not to have to go there. What was involved in removing the casting?Originally Posted by bill g
have had it happen on e34 door locks and on those , when i took them apart i found a damaged pin or tumbler, or whatever you call these wafers that pull in when you insert the key. On bmw and mercedes doorlocks its usually just one wafer thats bent or damaged and if i couldn't straighten it out i removed it and it works fine.. When the key if fully inserted these wafers should retract until they are flush, if they aren't then your key is worn and to compensate you can take a flat mill file and leaving your key all the way in the lock assy you carefully file down the tops of any of the pins that stick up.. I've watched a couple of locksmith's do it on mercedes locks that i took to them. This picture is with the key halfway out so some of them stick up, just to show you how they work.. When you pull the key out the wafers can all fall out if you don't hold them in, and when they fall out you'll see they are cut to different lengths to follow the ins and outs of the key, so that they all pull down exactly flat when the key is inserted all the way.
Originally Posted by John B.
Thanks Bill, I did try my master key as I thought the problem might be my worn spare but it didn't help. The new lock assy keyed to my vin was only $50 through BMA so if it cures the problem permanently I'll be very happy. When I pull the old lock out next week I'll look it over & see if I can tell where the problem was.
Even though the problem has disappeared by itself I installed the new lock barrel today as I'd already bought it from BMA. Removing the old barrel took about 10 seconds & couldn't be easier. Using a heavy duty paper clip for the pin I turned the key to the first position, inserted the clip & while applying pressure to the pin turned the key forward just a hair until the pin dropped into the hole & released the locking tab. The barrel pulled out with very little resistance but the new barrel needed a good push to seat in the hole. Doesn't feel any different but at least I've got a spare if I ever need it. If the steering lock acts up again I'll replace the cast assembly as that seems to be where the problem lies.