Head gasket? Need help ASAP '97 528i

Hey guys,

I've posted about some issues before and similar problems persist. Been driving the car for months now since the radiator replacement I did. Had a few occasions where temp needle would move and as soon as it did, I'd turn off and pull over ASAP. Checked fluid, and all seemed fine. (still have that cold start shudder though)

Also the needle would sometime move slightly but go down just as fast as it went up. I assumed a bubble must be trapped from when I replaced the radiator.

Drive car for a week or two and then same issue. During those two weeks, no issues at all - short trips, longer drips, sitting in traffic, fine with no temp issues.

It did it the other day again on the way to work. I checked it at lunch time and I was about a quart low on antifreeze. I added the antifreeze. Later that night, no shudder at start up hmmm.

Not wanting to take a chance, I stopped by my indie and told him about the raise in temp and then it goes right back down and the shudder. He said "drop it off tomorrow"

First thing in the AM, no shudder at start up hmm...why....

He just called and said he was able to replicate the shudder but did not say why and also said he had to add about a gallon of antifreeze.

We spoke briefly about head gasket and he felt that might be where it is leaking. No codes were thrown.

Three questions.

1 - Could I have not bled all air out and is there a good link for me to review? I think I bled it just fine and that there is a slight head gasket leak which is why I am low on fluid from time to time.
2 - If it is the head gasket, what is the best approach (links, manuals, videos) for me to do it myself. I'm no slouch when it comes to wrenching. I'd rather replace now before it becomes a full blown problem.
3 - What else should I do as "might as wells" while I have the head off.

This is just my daily driver so I'm not going to do any crazy mods.

Thanks in advance
Vince

If you filled it with the heater valves open and the heater blows hot air, I'd suggest you dont have an air bubble. Confirm if it is indeed a HG problem by sniffer test, compression test + checking for mayo under the oil filler cap and colour of oil. AFIK, the E39s have an aluminium block. If the engine overheats it can pull the studs out of the block wrecking the threads. So you are looking at a new block or drilling out the holes to take inserts. So if the indications are that the head gasket has gone, I'd start by trying the tighten the head bolts. If they spin, then unfortunately you have your answer

1 - How would you fill with heater valves open?
If it were summer I doubt they were.

2 - would I need a gallon more if valves were closed?

3 - What is sniffer test?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by vping

1 - How would you fill with heater valves open?
If it were summer I doubt they were.

2 - would I need a gallon more if valves were closed?

3 - What is sniffer test?

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1. You just turn the heating to hot
2. No idea how much the heater holds but very much doubt it is an imperial gallon
3. It confirms if you have combustion gases in the coolant ie a breach between the cylinders and cooling system

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whiskychaser

1. You just turn the heating to hot
2. No idea how much the heater holds but very much doubt it is an imperial gallon
3. It confirms if you have combustion gases in the coolant ie a breach between the cylinders and cooling system

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my car had a head gaskey leak,very slight would misfire at start up but NO OTHER SYMPTOMS,no oil in coolant,no mayo on filler cap,no ther test shoed a positive result.Just the misfire and a slightly increased appetite for coolant(i had a weeping heater core/or o rings)It was only when the head was pulled that a 5/6 breach was found

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whiskychaser

1. You just turn the heating to hot
2. No idea how much the heater holds but very much doubt it is an imperial gallon
3. It confirms if you have combustion gases in the coolant ie a breach between the cylinders and cooling system

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Re 1. You have to turn heating to hot and turn on the accessories (possibly the ignition) in order to power up the IHKR (The heating unit, which is full of motors and valves controlling the air and coolant flow.)

All BMW 6s are long engines, and after 15 years the head gasket can get leaky. But on alloy engines like yours, it might taken 30 years- I don't know. However if you have let it overheat before you are in very risky territory. You should find root cause immediately.

The sniffer test will allow you to confirm if there is a head gasket problem. Also need to check the coolant for oil and the oil for coolant- all this a good garage can do for a nominal fee. e39 owners have a fair few things to maintain on their cooling systems AFAIK, plastic pipe at the front that should be swapped for an alloy one, as per the thermostat housing and the water pump. Maybe your water pump is starting to fail intermittently. Also need to verify correct operation of the fan clutch, drain and refill with correct type (ie factory) coolant (not 'anti-freeze'). Alloy engines when they overheat can get a warped block as well as pulled head bolts- so be very careful with your baby (don't drive?) until you get this stuff nailed.

.

Try K-Seal if needed

Why did he delete all his posts? Looks like the problem has been ongoing and I'm sure we all wonder what the outcome was.

Deleted posts? Hmmm

Maybe vping is a KGB/DSD/CCP/NSA h4x0r... having trouble w his e39 and covering his tracks out of habit.

Not sure what happened there, but I restored the post.