Those are the old..Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross
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Those are the old..Quote:
Originally Posted by Ross
my oil pressure light is taking a bit longer than i like to come off at cold start up, and i have to do the pan soon. luckily, i have the benefit of a tranny jack, which will hopefully make things go smoother than it has for others. can you give some details on the gear/rotor replacement? i looked in the bmw service manual, and saw that it didn't have anything about the oil pump (it says, for all other procedures, check bmw assembly manual). can you fill me in about assembly/disassembly, and the like? thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan roopnarine
With the oil pan lowered, it is trivial to replace the guts of the oil pump. there are 4 or so bolts that hold the front face on, remove those and the guts come out. Of course, remove the main pulley to get access to them. On 1995, it was reverse thread for main pulley nut, not sure about yours - look closely.
I completely removed my pump from the block which was not necessary but allowed me to inspect everything more closely. It required some swivels to get in there and remove the bolts and required me to remove the sump (which I wanted to inspect anyway).
I put a little locktite on all bolts in reassembly - I don't intend to ever do this again ;)
This is the link for my car
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...77&hg=11&fg=30
I had the same problem. Oil pressure was normal. The problem was the oil filter housing. It has two plastic valves that crap-out over time and they let the oil flow back to the oil pan leaving the oil filter housing empty, hence the delay in the oil pressure readout.Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan roopnarine
Great info, thank you.
I switched from 20W50 to 0W50 Penrite synthetic in the M50 and it actually made a massive difference. I can't wait to fix the leaky gaskets, injectors and plugs now. :) WooHoo!
I'm hardly a Penrite fan but hear that Redline is the ****. I never go sub 50 as it gets hot here in Australia.