Wow great post! I would also like to here about Lubro Molly Hydraulic Valve Cleaner. Is there any kind of engine additive that I can buy to clean up the lifters and such? Cars got 170k on it so Im sure it wouldnt hurt. Thanks guys!
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Wow great post! I would also like to here about Lubro Molly Hydraulic Valve Cleaner. Is there any kind of engine additive that I can buy to clean up the lifters and such? Cars got 170k on it so Im sure it wouldnt hurt. Thanks guys!
You just pour it in, drive, and forget about it until the next oil change. :) I'm using Mobil1 0w40 and have no oil leaks at all. Before inspection I had Shell Helix Plus 10w40 leaking from the oil filter o-ring, oil level sensor ring and oil pan gasket. When my mechanic changed all the gaskets I made a 1000 km trip almost without any oil loss. I suggest you check your gaskets before switching to Mobil1, since 1 liter of it is around $20, here :(Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidtiger720
Btw., I'm living in mild climate, temperatures rarely go below 0° C, here - maybe 0w40 isn't right for you if it's too hot or too cold there.
Liqui-Moly is a reputable german company that makes all sorts of additives for cars and bikes, here's there web site (in german):Quote:
Originally Posted by Rory
http://www.liqui-moly.de/web/lmhomed...index_produkte
This is the info about the hydraulic valve cleaner (in german):
HYDRO-STÖSSEL-ADDITIV
Dämpft die Geräuschbildung ausgelaufener Hydro-Stössel. Reinigt Ventile und Bohrungen im Stössel und sorgt somit wieder für ihre optimale Funktion.
Einsatz: Zugabe zum Motorenöl. Für alle Benzin- und Dieselmotoren mit und ohne Turboaufladung. Kat getestet. Mischbar mit allen handelsüblichen Motorenölen. 300 ml ausreichend für bis zu 6 l Motorenöl.
and a babelfish translation to english:
HYDRAULIC TAPPET ADDITIVE
The noise creation of run out hydraulic tappets absorbs. Cleans valves and drillings in the tappet and provides thus again for its optimal function. Employment: Addition to engine oil. For all gasoline and diesel engines with and without turbo-loading. Kat tested. Mixable with all commercial engine oils. 300 ml sufficiently for up to 6 l engine oil.
hi everyone!
I once had this problem and as i was preparing to take the valve cover off to see if there was any loose valvetrain parts i needed to remove each of the coils, upon removing, i decided to give each of the boots a good once over just cuz i never had taken them off since i got the car well.... as i removed the coil i noticed a pretty significant tear in the boot which in actuality was allowing the spark to jump from the coil to the valve cover! as a quick fix i wrapped the boot with electrical tape until i could replace with a new and found that not only was the sound gone but that driving with 6 cylinders is way better than 5! its just a suggestion as i dont really know anything about this hydraulic valve cleaner.
Found this older thread during a search for a solution to a perceived problem with my engine. I have a 95 520i wagon with the 2.0L M50 engine and manual trans. The engine seems to develop normal power at all speeds and conditions. The problem is that once it warms up, it develops an anoying ticking sound that never goes away, and increases/decreases with engine speed. I've done some reading, and have found a number of references to oil weight, and possibly even loose spark plugs. The PO said it started doing this almost immediately after he put a tank of E10 fuel in the car because he was in Italy and had no other choice. I'm assuming lifter issue, but, not sure.
Just wondering what experiences anyone has had lately with a similar problem, and what did you do to fix it?
Wen was the last time you replaced the timing chain tensioner? I had the same problem but I switched oils and didnt resolve. I eventually went through the top end of my m50 and relized that it was the tensioner on the upper chain causing the noise. Just a food for thought.
I have no idea. I'm on a military installation in Germany. This is a car that has been bought and sold by various soldiers countless times. It probably bears checking into.
i suspect you have oil draining when engine is cold. This may be oil weight related. i noticed it when i ran 0w40 or 5-40 oil. When warm or hot, I think it is lifter related (worn or dirty engine). Tiny little orfices that may clog. Our M50 engines have a lot of miles on them and in many cases several owners. Lots of opportunity for gunked up engines.
Mine had the ocassional warm idle tick. I think it was a dirty engine. I am the second owner. I cleaned it with advice from Bobistheoil guy forum with Auto-RX, MMO etc.. My Best result to clean the engine was using Kreen from Kano Laboratories, Inc. Nashville, Tenn. The engine is much quieter and seems to run better per the Butt meter. I also used it in the fuel. I think that helped as well. good luck
Also, I think the best weight oil is 10w40. 20w50 seems ok but may be too heavy for the M50?? I have used Lubro-Moly 10w40 blend and Valvoline Maxlife blend 10w40 with good results.
My first thought was changing the oil. I've been wondering about the 20W50 myself. I had been running 10W40 in my 92 525 and had no problems whatsoever. I think I'll give it another week, and drop oil again and see if that does anything. The timing chain tensioner and spark plugs might bear looking into also if the oil change doesn't show at least some improvement.
Dump 1/4-1/2 a can of seafoam into the oil, drive the piss out of it for 300-500 miles. Change oil/filter with 10w40 or 15w50 and enjoy the quiet lifters.