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I HATE the way my shift lever feels! Trans works fine, (model A4S 310R, '95 525i), but changing from Park to and from other gears just feels worn and uncertain. Has anyone determined what it takes to renew this? Is it just the handle, or some linkage parts? Big Thanks!
Maybe the plastic shifter sliding cover? It becomes brittle over time and makes shift feel rough.
http://bavauto.com//assets/product_i...1161938362.jpg
RealOEM.com * BMW E34 525i SHIFT INTERLOCK AUTOMATIC TRANSM.
Its probably just the spring in the handle or the bottom of the pull rod is worn. Or somebody took the handle off and didnt put it back on properly.
You will soon see if the spring is working when you undo the screw 12 as it will try to pop the handle off. The bottom of pull rod 11 can become worn so it doesnt lock into the teeth below the selector lever. I filed mine when I got it 7 years ago and it has been solid ever since. 5 minutes of a job and repair cost nil
Whiskychaser - This is promising info! Yes, the spring seems weak, for starters. It may not be pulling the pull rod as it should, causing the me to have to push (rather than simply move) the lever from P to D, etc.
If you don't mind guiding me further, how do I go about addressing this?
- When I remove screw 12 and the handle comes off, is reinstalling it just as easy?
- Is the spring within accessible? I get the feeling the squeeze portion of the handle is mushy. Maybe I can stretch the spring a bit?
- Does the pull rod come out without removing the interior trim?
Thanks!!!
P.S. Rick L - The plastic piece seems to slide back and forth just fine, but thanks just the same for pointing out the possibility.
The spring doesnt pull the rod up, it pushes it downwards so it engages with the 'teeth' below it. You cannot replace the spring in the T bar. But it may be an idea to make sure the pin from the spring is actually going through the hole in the top of the rod. You dont need to remove any trim. Just pull the lever back a couple of clicks so you can get at the screw. The rod should come out with the handle when you take it off.
I was about to attempt this, but wondered ...
- Can I leave it in Park if I can get to the set screw behind the handle? (Can't put in Drive without engine running).
- I'm not sure I'd know what the goal of filing the pull-rod would be (and think you're a genius for knowing!).
- For what it's worth, it's a little rough pulling my lever out of Park.
Can't wait to get your replies and try this!
Thanks!!
No reason you cant leave it in park. Putting the screw back is a bit fiddly so thats why I put the lever vertical. But I dont have the complication of the shift lock. Lazy POs had worn the bottom of the rod on mine to a point. Thats hardly a snug fit in the teeth at the bottom. But the spring in the top doesnt have a lot of travel so I didnt go mad with filing it away or it would have been too short and never locked. No genius required:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Victor
Tip: When you put the handle back, dont push it on too hard or you will never get the screw to line up with the hole it screws into.
You might try moving it out of park with the handle off. If it is still rough it could be the shift lock sticking a little.
Reviewing the realoem.com diagram again, I can envision why reshaping the bottom of the pull rod would make for a more confident fit and feel. But I think the main problem I have is that the pull rod isn't being raised completely out of the teeth upon squeezing the handle. If it's the spring in the handle that's responsible, maybe i need a new handle since it's not removable (grrrrrr). List on the handle is >$200.
Otherwise, I wonder if any other linkage or bushings which could be responsible. Again, I'm not clearing the teeth, causing a rough feel between gear positions. Best, Vic
By the sounds of it, you have two problems - its hard to get out of park and once its out it doesnt feel positive?
The only way I can see it not lifting the rod to release it is if the pin isnt through the top of the rod i.e. somebody put it back wrong. If you remove the handle and rod, you will soon see if that is what is causing it to stick. You also have the shift interlock so you will need to remove the shift surround to see if that is releasing properly. The cable is just like one on a bicycle. But they can gum up at the 'business end'. Maybe see if the boot is split and try some WD40 on it? HTH
I tried to remove the T-handle but couldn't. It seems that either a part of the "screw" is missing, or it's stripped. Not sure if you can tell from the photo, but there's a black collar and then a lighter colored metal element behind. I can't tell which was supposed to accept a tool, if either, and if it was an alan key or torque fitting.
Does it look like something's missing? Could this be the reason for my problem in the first place? How can I remove?
As always, many thanks ...
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