Door Lock Woes

I know there are somewhat related threads about deadbolted doors but I'm still having some trouble figuring out what the problem is. The problem is with the passenger side rear door. Won't lock/unlock with any of the other doors or unlock manually. Tried to synchronize doors (didn't seem like the problem but was worth a shot..) to no avail. I can hear the actuators in all the other when a lock signal is sent by the keys in the front doors or moving the driver door. In this door however I feel/hear nothing. I can move the lock up and down somewhat and hear something in the door (but not the distinct locking or unlocking sound). Is this related to the deadlocking system? Thats what the lock seems to be doing. Don't know if this is related but since the second owner of the car (14 years ago) the trunk couldn't be locked/unlocked from the trunk lock cylinder. Someone in another thread mentioned the same thing but noone every said anything about it...

Also I know theres a procedure for removing the door panel without being able to open the door on bmwe34.net, but I still can't seem to get the panel off or find/disconnect the cable connected to the door handle...if that makes any sense.

Sorry that this is so long for such a small problem... and it may not make sense so feel free to question/criticize/anything.

I have exactly the same problem on a RHD car. I suspect the actuator as when I checked inside I could see it was trying to move when the system was locking and unlocking but it wasn't managing to push/pull the mechanism properly.

At least mine un-deadlocks sucessully though... (but not always, so I should fix it before ending up in your shoes.

Sounds like you can just buy an actuator and go through the trouble of getting the panel off is a PITA, but at least it is possible! The very best of luck.

Good luck, :) Nick

Hmm, thing is, at this point I don't think the actuator is even trying. Its as if its deadlocked and theres no power going to it. I'm not sure if its possible to be deadlocked with no power though because I recall reading somewhere that disconnecting the battery would un-deadlock the doors. I disconnected the fuse going to the non-driver doors but no change. Could the actuator just be fried or is there no connection. Or do I just have to get that panel off before anyone can tell...

It would be nice if its electrical outside the door and say, conveniently located in some relay or fuse I could change without removing a door panel :)

EDIT:

Wait, what am I saying, the door doesn't manually un-lock. Perhaps someone could give me a brief summary about how the locking/deadlocking system in this car works, I'm a bit confused

hmm.. any ideas? :D

I have a similar problem with my 1989 535..I put drivers door on manual. Actuators changed after 1989 and I think they are prone to problems. I just bought a 1990 car that works good and planned on switching out the electronics . I heard that you can't mix and match actuators from newer car because of the changes made. So I think fixing what you have is pretty tough. Ive had two good mechanics work on mine to no avail. Actuators go for forty plus from junk yards and no promises that it can solve problem. Sorry I can't help more but if someone with an 89 out there has solved this please contribute. I would love to stop using the emergency method to unlock my door lol.....

Hmm if it comes to the point where the power door lock on that door won't work, honestly I wouldn't care too much (though I'd be annoyed). I could live as long as I would be able to [I]manually[I] unlock the door. I just want to get it open... And if I close it again to be able to open by pulling that little (button?) up.

You have to go in the door panel and unplug the actuator wire for that door. I am not sure but only on front doors rear ones may not work. Are you familiar with emergency unlocking procedure where you turn key and lift handle at the same time? This is what I have to do to unlock drivers door. But you have to disable the connection for the pin to go up in that door only. Other connection to communicate with other doors must stay intact. My mechanic did this for me but if you test the door while the panel is off it should not be too hard to do. I had to pay 100.00 just to get this far. But at least now I can pull pin up and down and use emergency procedure to unlock. My other three doors work fine. Good luck