So what is it about that damn cylender 3 anyway?

Is there an official M50B25 cylender 3 conspiracy thread somewhere?

I've had a hard hunt to find an un-cracked replacement 2.5 M50 cylender head - every scrap yard I've gone to has tried to sell me a head with a crack in cylender 3...

I've finally located one without a crack but it's a strange one with casting marks I've never seen before... which reminds me I need to post a photo of the one I dont consider to be strange.

Now I need to decide whether to pull piston 3 and replace its rings - I have no idea of the condition of them. The 2.0 head that's on there currently is so buggered it's clanking at tickover but not under power.

While pulling away the cars not smoking much, odd bit of blue smoke, but I think the valve guides have gone on cyl 3 as it's oiling up spark plugs and misfiring at idle.

Trouble is I gots to lift the front of the car to do the pistons with the block still in and I've no garage. Thinking about it I'd have to put it on ramps before I took the head off and that's gonna make getting the head out a a right biatch of a job...

Hmm... to risk it or not to risk (changing the rings), that is the question.

Same problem finding M20 heads -- they tend to be cracked through the cam journals. I suspect it's because good engines get sold intact; bad engines get parted out. BMWs tend not to wind up at the breakers unless the engine is sacked, and the usual failure mode is an overheat bad enough to crack the head.

That's why I'm stockpiling good M20 heads, to keep my beastie going and going!

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Originally Posted by Ferret

Now I need to decide whether to pull piston 3 and replace its rings - I have no idea of the condition of them. The 2.0 head that's on there currently is so buggered it's clanking at tickover but not under power.

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Clanking? My M20B20 did that clanking thing 4 yrs ago. It was excessive wear in the big end journal of piston 6. One complete crank regrind & oversize bearings later and the engine sounded sweet, and still does!

HTH,

Shaun M

Quote:

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Originally Posted by E34-520iSE

Clanking? My M20B20 did that clanking thing 4 yrs ago. It was excessive wear in the big end journal of piston 6. One complete crank regrind & oversize bearings later and the engine sounded sweet, and still does!

HTH,

Shaun M

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It's a strange thing though, it comes and it goes - if you put a can of oil rejuvinator in there it shuts up pretty quickly... I've done the hose to ear trick and the noise is definitely coming from the head...

I knew when I put the 2.0 head on the 2.5 engine it wasnt gonna last very long - but I think the head was shot from the word go.

They're called Wells Racing (they've got a website) in Duncanville, Texas. I took the head from my 525 in and he showed me cracks in cyl 3 and 4. They grind out the crack, weld it up and then recut the valve seats. They also straighten and pressure test the head. The guy who does the machining is David and he says that a number of independent BMW shops send heads to him for valve jobs and somewhere on the order of 35-50% of them are cracked at cyl 3.
David tells me that after they weld it up they never crack again.

Some cracks can't really be repaired.If you imagine the cracked area being like an eggshell, you start cleaning out loose metal but the crack just runs away from you, and it never ends!

HTH,

Shaun M

Quote:

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Originally Posted by E34-520iSE

Some cracks can't really be repaired.If you imagine the cracked area being like an eggshell, you start cleaning out loose metal but the crack just runs away from you, and it never ends!

HTH,

Shaun M

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So long as the crack is ground out to its root, then it will not be "running away from you". that said, the welded bit won't have the same strength as the homogenous metal that it replaced though. depends on the quality of the weld, if the edges of the weld don't fuse to the metal properly, you can expect it to crack in the same place again.

I'm also wondering whether it's worth breaking down the two step head bolt torque-up into four steps, IE 4 x 45 or maybe 3 x 60 degrees rather than 2 x 90... It's just strange that they always seem to crack in the same place...

Looking at the components, I'm wondering if bmw buggered up their fluid dynamics where the out or inflow is halfway along the left side of the head...

I doubt the cracks are caused by the torque staging. I suspect they have one and only one cause -- overheating.