ok I've had enough...

Yes its been nearly 3 months, since I've owned my car. In that time, I've done nothing to it aside from gas it up. I'm gonna buy the sachs kit and redo the suspension....I need new bushings. I'd like to get anything down there taken care of. I want to put my e38 wheels on. Time for the questions.

I'm having the suspension done. What else should I have taken care of down there? What other parts should I order from BMA? I'm already in for some bushings as I hear some clunk clunk everytime I brake, and often when I shift. Also, how much for whatnot?

I've asked before and I've heard about 3 different answers. Do I need spacers for the e38 basketweaves?

Who/where/how for some dustless Brakes? I'm tired of the brake lining message on my dash.

a clunk can be the balljoints if it happens when you hit the brakes, especially when going slow, replace the arms too.

clunk when shifting could be motor/trans mounts and or guibo (if on your car).

no clue bout the wheels

Im running Raybestos QS ceramics now and am very impressed. No degassing the pad or severe breakin period, install and drive....real nice.

get some new brake sensors while ordering, they are cheap, one for front, one for back, same part (get 3 incase you bust one they are brittle).

1) Congratulations

2) You say "you're having the suspension done". Does this mean you're having someone else do it? If you are at all capable, I recommend trying it yourself. You need about three different sized wrenches, a couple of allens, rented/borrowed pair of spring compressors, a Bentleys and a bit of patience for the rear end if the shock is stuck on the trailing arm.

3) Your shift linkage bushings/guibo and center bearing may be due for replacement. If you do it now, you won't have to wrestle the exhaust off again later. I would go so far as to ask how you r clutch feels as its not too much deeper to get at. You can also shorten up your shifter throw with an e36 M3 or similar shifter. Old Post on shift linkage/guibo/etc

4) Your clunk may be the sway bar links or whatever they're called.

5) Eibach Pro Kit and Boges with e38 baskets - No hubcentrics/spacers....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r182006002.jpg

6) Someone else will tell you about brakes

Good Luck,

Dave M

if you are down there, do the dog-bones, stoptech brake lines (im doing it right now and its a real pain!), new rotors, obviously new pads and sensors, superblue brake fluid

I dont know if the kit comes with new spring pads and mounts but get them too.

bigger waybars and links is an obvious choice,

when you get the wheels and rotors off check the wheel hub for excessive rust, perhaps replace the front hubs?

LSD install anyone? Performance chip?

Fuel filter, oil filter, air filter, synthetic oil with moly, trans diff and steering fluid change, new spark plugs and boots, new distributor rotor and ignition coil, interior air microfilter, CV joint grease, motor and trans mounts, coolant flush with new thermo.

That part is a lot to absorb so read it again

I'm looking at the exact same thing. Sachs shocks. Eibach Springs. There is a bavauto kit for the lowered springs.. a shorter bumpstop and the like. But I'm wondering if I need that crap or not. I wish OEM springs were cheaper, because I'd buy them. But on to your issue:

"I'm already in for some bushings as I hear some clunk clunk everytime I brake, and often when I shift. Also, how much for whatnot?"

I had the same issue. It's that rubber disc called the guibo. It's consistently torn to **** after 60K miles according to my dealer. It's the transmissions vibration suppression thing. And it takes alot of work to replace. I thought the dealer was lying to me until he showed it to me. Looked like a clown car tire got caught in a daisycutter personel mine. The guy was bitching for days... anywho

"I've asked before and I've heard about 3 different answers. Do I need spacers for the e38 basketweaves?"

It doesn't drop that much. 1 and 1.3 inches. The basketweaves original are 15 inches. You might need them if you have 17's. But, that's my guess from what I've read. I haven't installed this myself, so ignore me at your liesure. I'm a computer dork. And if I'm wrong I'll find out real soon because I'm doing the same thing. Patrick from BMA and Bavauto made not one mention of that. Here is my quote from bavauto:

1[36 747A ] SACHS FRONT GAS E34 7.00 94.95 2 189.90
2[32 650F ] SACHS REAR GAS E34 9.00 84.95 2
169.90
3[SIKF E34 ] SHOCK INSTALL KIT-E34 FT 1.00 49.95 1
49.95
4[SIKR E34 ] SHOCK INSTALL KIT-E34 RR 1.20 64.95 1
64.95
5[33 52 1 132270H] SHOCK MOUNT-REAR E34 HD 1.00 27.95 2
55.90
6[31 33 1 139 437] SHOCK TOWER BEARING- 2.60 97.95 2
195.90
7[20 13 1 40 ] EIBACH SPRINGS-E34 25.75 249.95 1
249.95

"Who/where/how for some dustless Brakes? I'm tired of the brake lining message on my dash."

Folks keep recommending the quiet stop ceramic pads from here http://www.raybestos.com/usa/brakepads.htm#
I was looking at the hawk ceramic pads as well. But I'm doing the suspension first. Brakes work for me, except for a good bit of brake dust. Luckily I can wash it and I honestly don't care if the things work well. I'm not at the obsessive compulsive stage just yet.

Check gearbox mounts too...

We didn't know mine were cactus til the mechanic changed a rear main seal. the replacement of gearbox mounts has removed ALOT of vibration.

Hawk ceramics pads are awsome after initial break in. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by liquidtiger720

Hawk ceramics pads are awsome after initial break in. :)

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I used to use Hawk on my VR6, crazy clamping power!
Which one are you using?
do you have the dreaded squeal they used to have?

best pad for track that I have tried