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ExcessPlay
02-06-2005, 01:37 PM
I know some of you have seen this before but as long as the E34s are popular, and they run pretty much forever, I’m sure this won’t be the last post on this subject.

About a week ago I pushed my babied 525i a bit harder then I usually do, a jerk cut me off and nearly caused me to get run over, anyway the Trans Program light came on although the car did not go into limp mode and there was no noise or other apparent problems. The light continued to come on solid ever time I drove it thereafter but the car drove and shifted fine, just that pesky light was on.

Pretty weekend and I decided to see if I couldn't get to the cause of the lught. Gas pedal stop code test was done on the car, by another E34 owner, and there were no apparent malfunctions and he reset the system showing a code 1444, this is the only part I didn't physically see myself as I was gathering tools. Opened up the ECU cover box and removed all the relays and both connectors, cleaned and reseated all properly. Then I removed the shift mechanism cleaned and reinstalled. Hoping that the light would now be off I turned the key and nothing!!! The car will not even attempt to turn over! I cleaned the battery terminals, rechecked the connectors and relays and still nothing! I have now had the battery tested and have electrically tested every accessible relay in the engine compartment and checked all the fuses I can see. I tried to crank it both in park and neutral and no difference. The only lights that come on now are the mileage, trip indicator and a faint flashing ABS, no other panel indicator lights. Headlights, radio, fan, dome lights all work and do not dim when attempting to start the car. The only other thing I can add is that the power windows will not work in any key position.

What have I done?? What am I missing???

infinity5
02-06-2005, 02:38 PM
Sorry i can't offer any more advice, i'm sure in a moment someone will chime in with help, but if you give up theres always touching the battery leads together and attempting to reset the system. that might be a good last resort, parituclarly since your problem is so electronically based.

Javier
02-06-2005, 11:10 PM
It is located in the Front Fuse Box, just besides fuse 7/8 (second relay). It should click when the range selector is in P or N and you turn the key to Run, and you should also feel a click when you move the range selector out of P/N wile the key is still in run.

If you feel no click, just remove the relay and jump wire in the relay socket the terminals corresponding to relay pins 30 and 87. This will ignore the range selector position for the transmission, when you attempt to crank the engine (attention be sure car is in park).

This will let you know if you have a problem in the transmission range selector switch.

Javier

ExcessPlay
02-07-2005, 08:37 AM
It is located in the Front Fuse Box, just besides fuse 7/8 (second relay). It should click when the range selector is in P or N and you turn the key to Run, and you should also feel a click when you move the range selector out of P/N wile the key is still in run.

If you feel no click, just remove the relay and jump wire in the relay socket the terminals corresponding to relay pins 30 and 87. This will ignore the range selector position for the transmission, when you attempt to crank the engine (attention be sure car is in park).

This will let you know if you have a problem in the transmission range selector switch.

Javier

Javier,

Thanks but no luck. K1 is working, clicks when you turn to crank and clisks when you go out of P/N.

I have seen mention on some of the board posts about a fusible link and since my windows are also not working does someone have a wiring diagram to lead me through that search? I have ordered a Bentley manual but it won’t be in until later this week.

Richard

JonE
02-07-2005, 09:03 AM
Try this link to Bruno's site for more fusible link information, http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/electrical/fusible_link.htm

Javier
02-07-2005, 09:29 AM
Battery in good condition, you know, working with the car, interior lights on, some music to smooth out. First time I did that, I almost have a hard attack, as got the very same issue, though I messed something while working my electrical system.

The starter has nothing to do with the fuse link. As long as you have the K1 clicking, no fuse is between the battery and the starter motor.

Just try to jump start crank, the easiest way is to wire bridge from pin 14 to pin 11 in diagnostic connector, see below link to identify. (Pin 14 is battery + and pin 11 is starter solenoid)

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/electrical/e36_reset_service_lights.html

If you have no crank, you have no battery (or no starter!!).

Javier

Bill R.
02-07-2005, 09:36 AM
Javier,

Thanks but no luck. K1 is working, clicks when you turn to crank and clisks when you go out of P/N.

I have seen mention on some of the board posts about a fusible link and since my windows are also not working does someone have a wiring diagram to lead me through that search? I have ordered a Bentley manual but it won’t be in until later this week.

Richard

neutral safety switch and the power comes from fuse 17 to the starter solenoid, so i would check that fuse first and then jumper the k1 relay with a jumper wire even though you hear clicking , a relay can click and still be bad. If you jumper it direct the starter should spin regardless of what gear its in

ExcessPlay
02-07-2005, 10:13 AM
Battery in good condition, you know, working with the car, interior lights on, some music to smooth out. First time I did that, I almost have a hard attack, as got the very same issue, though I messed something while working my electrical system.

The starter has nothing to do with the fuse link. As long as you have the K1 clicking, no fuse is between the battery and the starter motor.

Just try to jump start crank, the easiest way is to wire bridge from pin 14 to pin 11 in diagnostic connector, see below link to identify. (Pin 14 is battery + and pin 11 is starter solenoid)

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/electrical/e36_reset_service_lights.html

If you have no crank, you have no battery (or no starter!!).

Javier


Javier,

Jumpering 14 to 11 with the key in run starts her right up but still only mileage, trip and faint ABS lights come on, also windows still do not work, and it’s gonna rain tomorrow, of course. Turn the car off and still nothing when you try to restart with the key.

Richard

ExcessPlay
02-07-2005, 10:16 AM
Try this link to Bruno's site for more fusible link information, http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/electrical/fusible_link.htm


Thanks,

Thought that was where it was but just wasn't sure. Anyway the fusible link is fine.

Richard

Javier
02-07-2005, 10:32 AM
and K1 felt clicking is coming from somewhere else. Check it carefully.

Javier

ExcessPlay
02-07-2005, 10:44 AM
and K1 felt clicking is coming from somewhere else. Check it carefully.

Javier

OK guys I owe you a big one! F17 checked good with a ohmmeter, from the top, but I pulled it out and the terminals had so much corrosion on them the my meter didn't make a connection until I filed the corrosion off. Reinstalled and everything back to normal!!!

Thanks again!!!

Richard

Javier
02-07-2005, 11:10 AM
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ExcessPlay
02-07-2005, 03:57 PM
.

Well like I said everything is back to the way it was, car cranking fine and still shifting just fine. But I also still have that pesky Trans Program displayed. Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Richard

Javier
02-07-2005, 06:48 PM
read the Transmission computer (EGS). You may have a solenoid or speed sensor (Transmission) issue. Is the car doing fine all shifts? Have you checked for cleanness the connecting plug to the Transmission.

Javier

ExcessPlay
02-08-2005, 03:21 PM
I haven’t checked anything other then cleaning the ECU and ECG connectors and all the relays and fuses in the engine compartment yet. This is where I got into the trouble in the first place, with F17. Also I have a Bentley manual coming in this week so I can figure out where some of these things are that might cause this message to display.

I will check the connector you talked about and if that doesn’t do the trick take it to have the ECG read.

Thanks