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wengenstein
01-01-2005, 09:21 PM
I have a nagging todo list that I'd like to get to but with the cold weather I don't see myself getting to it anytime soon.. What can you guys recommend for heating a garage? I've been checking out sears.com. :)

winfred
01-01-2005, 09:40 PM
i like a kerosene bullet heater, it gives a ton of heat off quickly and you can direct it wherever you want it, if you gotta work under the car stick it at one end and the whole underside of the car will be warmed. ours at the shop finally died after about 20 years and we need to get another, home depot has a $280 good one and a $400 bad ass, the smaller one would be a little overkill on a one car garage but should do nicely on a 2 or bigger


I have a nagging todo list that I'd like to get to but with the cold weather I don't see myself getting to it anytime soon.. What can you guys recommend for heating a garage? I've been checking out sears.com. :)

Rigmaster
01-01-2005, 11:45 PM
Waste oil heater!!!

Free fuel.

The initial cost is $$$$ (a local shop has one, he said it was ~$3200), but if you are in a cold climate, it would pay for itself pretty quickly....

Not exactly practical if you only plan to use it once in a while, but IMHO, worth it for a serious shop/garage.


Bret.

shogun
01-02-2005, 12:47 AM
Solar energy, the cheapest, no waste of oil. Here in Japan we have solar systems to install on the roof of the house. It heats up water which is naturally circulating then.
http://www.apricus-solar.com/images/Products/AP-front.jpg
http://www.apricus-solar.com/images/Products/ET-&-header-pic.gif

Info on solar systems (http://www.apricus-solar.com/index.htm)

dternst
01-02-2005, 01:55 AM
I use a 35,000 BTU Forced Air Propane Heater. It will heat my 2 car garage in amout 20 minutes.

35,000 BTU Portable Propane Forced Air Heater (http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/NTELargeImageView?rfno=200178624&storeId=6970)

Paul in NZ
01-02-2005, 04:04 AM
35000 Btu/hour [I.T.] = 10.2574875 kilowatts!!!!!

shogun
01-02-2005, 10:14 AM
That thingy would melt my car, I am afraid ;-)

Gooch
01-02-2005, 11:50 AM
You have to point it right at you. Sometimes the fumes can be too much. You may have to keep 2 propane tanks on hand. Its a good heat solution for short term projects.
No matter what the heat source and insulated garage is key. I find that the heat from the propane heater will be lost as it rises to the roof peak.

wengenstein
01-02-2005, 12:04 PM
I've seen the kerosene heaters but I don't know if the garage is sufficiently ventilated. How important is ventilation with a kerosene heater, is an open window enough? I was leaning towards a cheaper electrical alternative but it doesn't sound like it'll be as effective.


i like a kerosene bullet heater...

Paul in NZ
01-02-2005, 05:53 PM
ventilation with any combuston heater is very important,the carbon monoxide tends to settle to the floor level too,and is odourless and you eventually just fall asleep...I bet there are a number of deaths every year.We cant buy kerosene heaters here any more,but they are very effective.Kereosene = jet fuel.....

632 Regal
01-02-2005, 06:57 PM
I used to use 2 propane BBQ grills with lots of success. Dont cook food on it as tempting as it would be, it will stink for weeks.

winfred
01-02-2005, 08:41 PM
the roof is varly open in our shop so constant operation is ok and due to the openess nessary, it should heat up a small room quickly (small one is like 115k btu) then you shut it off


I've seen the kerosene heaters but I don't know if the garage is sufficiently ventilated. How important is ventilation with a kerosene heater, is an open window enough? I was leaning towards a cheaper electrical alternative but it doesn't sound like it'll be as effective.

JonE
01-03-2005, 01:58 PM
I have a small propane heater called a Mr. Heater, about 7 or 8,000 BTU takes the small propane cans. This works pretty well for small jobs, directed right at the project. Now there is a larger Mr. Heater that can use two of the cans, thus, doubling the heating capability, I wish I had been able to to get that one as I live in Minnesota and winters get kinda brutal. Anyway, it is handy and can be used in a pinch if the power goes out in the house, or in a cold basement space that need supplimental heat. I've used the kerosene "jet" heaters in an addition project, things heat up pretty well with 35000BTU's but are very smelly.

Gene in NC
01-05-2006, 11:05 PM
Find Winfred's forced air under car recommendation very appealing. Nothing like under car work on cold concrete. See link for possible help on heater sizing.

Does forced air on Kero heater make odor worse? Would propane be better?

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=17432&highlight=garage+heat

Dave M
01-05-2006, 11:16 PM
I installed a forced air natural gas furnace that runs off the house gas line. I thought about propane etc, but considered the external tanks and potential venting probs a negative in my situation. I chose the nat gas as I could pick up a used, small furnace for $100, dig the ditch for the gas line myself and not worry about two fuel sources. Built a 2 x4 frame for it get it off the floor and had a guy come in to do duct work. Very tidy set-up.

Not sure about the BTUs, but the 26 x 16' space heats up in 15 minutes in Thunder Bay Ontario weather. No complaints.

Good luck with whatever you choose,

Dave M

winfred
01-06-2006, 09:25 AM
we are running two of the kerosene jet engines now and it gets our 25X50 shop nice and warm, they don't really make much smell as i usually have one pointed at me and it's not a problem but in a closed space it's hard to say how bad it would get


Find Winfred's forced air under car recommendation very appealing. Nothing like under car work on cold concrete. See link for possible help on heater sizing.

Does forced air on Kero heater make odor worse? Would propane be better?

http://www.bimmer.info/forum/showthread.php?t=17432&highlight=garage+heat

Badkrma
01-06-2006, 10:37 AM
The best heat that I have found is the Blue Flame heater. SAFE FOR INDOOR USE.....

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=503602&R=503602

cut and paste the site. I picked mine up at Norther tools, but I know that Harbor Freight has them also. Make sure to get the fan to go with it. Can heat a 32X45 garage to the point that you ahve to wear a tee shirt.

bahnstormer
01-06-2006, 11:35 AM
layers =]
of clothes hehehe

FWinNH
01-06-2006, 11:51 AM
The best heat that I have found is the Blue Flame heater. SAFE FOR INDOOR USE.....

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=503602&R=503602

cut and paste the site. I picked mine up at Norther tools, but I know that Harbor Freight has them also. Make sure to get the fan to go with it. Can heat a 32X45 garage to the point that you ahve to wear a tee shirt.

Even a better bet:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=1029784&R=1029784

winfred
01-06-2006, 01:08 PM
got a small one of those in the kitchen for mom aka ice cube

SRR2
01-06-2006, 05:20 PM
I know you're talking about an existing garage, so this advice isn't going to be of much use to you, however, I once worked in a commercial garage -- 24 bays -- here in PA. It was perfectly comfortable in winter at air interior temperatures of around 50 degrees (with outside temps in the 20s) because it had infrared floor heating. The heating system circulated water at something like 90-100 degrees input to the floor which heated it to 70-80 in most areas. It was incredibly comfortable because your feet were always warm, water, snow and ice never accumulated because it would evaporate instantly and provide a bit of humidity. Even when working on a cold car, it would quickly warm up due to the IR radiation on its underside. They said it was relatively inexpensive to run too, mostly because it wasn't trying to heat air, and even when the doors were open, it didn't much matter if cold air came in, you basically didn't notice it much.

If I were building a new garage in which I intended to work, there's no doubt in my mind that I'd go to the slight extra expense of installing floor radiant heat.

Zeuk in Oz
01-06-2006, 08:21 PM
I know you're talking about an existing garage, so this advice isn't going to be of much use to you, however, I once worked in a commercial garage -- 24 bays -- here in PA. It was perfectly comfortable in winter at air interior temperatures of around 50 degrees (with outside temps in the 20s) because it had infrared floor heating. The heating system circulated water at something like 90-100 degrees input to the floor which heated it to 70-80 in most areas. It was incredibly comfortable because your feet were always warm, water, snow and ice never accumulated because it would evaporate instantly and provide a bit of humidity. Even when working on a cold car, it would quickly warm up due to the IR radiation on its underside. They said it was relatively inexpensive to run too, mostly because it wasn't trying to heat air, and even when the doors were open, it didn't much matter if cold air came in, you basically didn't notice it much.

If I were building a new garage in which I intended to work, there's no doubt in my mind that I'd go to the slight extra expense of installing floor radiant heat.
I can vouch for this - I have this type of heating in my house which is actually a 3 storey, open plan barn-type house made from a 100 year old railway goodsyard shed - we actually have photos of trains going out of it !

Our heating is fuelled by diesel and it heats the large open plan air space brilliantly.

632 Regal
01-06-2006, 08:51 PM
this is the way id go if I had to pour a floor again, put styrafoam under that between the earth and you have a real good setup...oops maybe not in a garage where a jack could pop through the concrete tho.

I know you're talking about an existing garage, so this advice isn't going to be of much use to you, however, I once worked in a commercial garage -- 24 bays -- here in PA. It was perfectly comfortable in winter at air interior temperatures of around 50 degrees (with outside temps in the 20s) because it had infrared floor heating. The heating system circulated water at something like 90-100 degrees input to the floor which heated it to 70-80 in most areas. It was incredibly comfortable because your feet were always warm, water, snow and ice never accumulated because it would evaporate instantly and provide a bit of humidity. Even when working on a cold car, it would quickly warm up due to the IR radiation on its underside. They said it was relatively inexpensive to run too, mostly because it wasn't trying to heat air, and even when the doors were open, it didn't much matter if cold air came in, you basically didn't notice it much.

If I were building a new garage in which I intended to work, there's no doubt in my mind that I'd go to the slight extra expense of installing floor radiant heat.

dacoyote
01-06-2006, 09:16 PM
this is the way id go if I had to pour a floor again, put styrafoam under that between the earth and you have a real good setup...oops maybe not in a garage where a jack could pop through the concrete tho.

Thats what real lifts are for...

SharkmanBMW
01-06-2006, 10:07 PM
I know you're talking about an existing garage, so this advice isn't going to be of much use to you, however, I once worked in a commercial garage -- 24 bays -- here in PA. It was perfectly comfortable in winter at air interior temperatures of around 50 degrees (with outside temps in the 20s) because it had infrared floor heating. The heating system circulated water at something like 90-100 degrees input to the floor which heated it to 70-80 in most areas. It was incredibly comfortable because your feet were always warm, water, snow and ice never accumulated because it would evaporate instantly and provide a bit of humidity. Even when working on a cold car, it would quickly warm up due to the IR radiation on its underside. They said it was relatively inexpensive to run too, mostly because it wasn't trying to heat air, and even when the doors were open, it didn't much matter if cold air came in, you basically didn't notice it much.

If I were building a new garage in which I intended to work, there's no doubt in my mind that I'd go to the slight extra expense of installing floor radiant heat.

My brother just built a new house and the whole ground floor has that piping under marbleish tiles that heats the floor.... it is the only heating in that section of the house and it works very fast and efficiently. In Canada, the floor can be cold in the winter and that is the perfect solution, not just for the garage!

DanH
01-07-2006, 12:29 AM
I have one of these 23,000 BTU/hr kerosene heaters, which takes a little while to heat up the whole garage, but is very quiet, and can also be used for emergency indoor heating(99% efficient.) It doesn't require external power source:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200316420&R=200316420
http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS/EN_US/asset/images/eplus/164149_3.jpg

Also, have a torpedo Remington kerosene heater that is 40,000 BTU/hr and will heat up the 2+ car garage quite quickly, even if its less than -10F outside. But it is noisy;sounds like a little jet engine.

http://www.ces-sales.com/companies/reddy_heaters/r40.jpg

DanH
01-07-2006, 12:32 AM
Also, if you are worried about smell, you can get clear kerosene. I only smell a wiff of odor at startup and shutdown.

I've seen scents at homedepot that can be added to cover up the odor also, but haven't tried them.

Alexlind123
01-07-2006, 12:51 AM
My parents house (where i live) has about ~4000ft of radiant floor-heated living space, including one garage bay(where i park :D), the entirety of the lower floor, and two bedrooms on the main floor. The rest is forced air hvac. Its supposed to be very efficient because the water is first heated by a geo-thermal (ground source) heat pump and pumped into water heaters where it it heated to its final temperature. It is then circulated throughout zones based on their thermostats, i guess this offers more versatality in the temps of individual areas. I believe that the heat pump also heats and cools air for the forced-air heating system for the second and third floors via a heat exchanger. There is insulation under the concrete to help make the system as efficient as possible, which was one of the major goals. Most of the flooring is either tile or south american hardwood except for my room (which i wanted carpet when the house was being designed). Although i have only been here for about 6 months, i think we have had the coldest part of the winter and it certainly does the job.