HELP : Thrust Arm removal - getting to the 22mm nut !!!

[Super90]

OK, the ball joint pops loose easily. But now, how in the heck does one get a wrench on the 22mm nut on the end of the bolt that holds the arm to the frame??!!

There is no room in there!

I can't even tell that removing the sway bar mount would help.

Ideas????

TIA

[Unregistered]

You're lucky your ball joints popped out easily, usally this is the problem end. To get to the 22mm end, use an open end or box end wrench to hold the nut, while using a socket to turn the bolt end. BMW recommends to replace all the 22mm self locking nuts. Remember to lower the car to the floor or on ramps before you torque down the arms to the frame. Otherwise the bushings will wear prematurely.

[Bill R.]

Just buy a cheapo harbor freight 22mm wrench and grind the sides as indicated to fit.
http://www.bimmernut.com/%7Ebillr/images/22mmmodify.jpg






OK, the ball joint pops loose easily. But now, how in the heck does one get a wrench on the 22mm nut on the end of the bolt that holds the arm to the frame??!!

There is no room in there!

I can't even tell that removing the sway bar mount would help.

Ideas????

TIA

[ryan roopnarine]

bill, if i could get your attention please.....is there anything that is an "easy" fix on the 850 (ie doesn't involve more than solder and elbow grease) that is usually broken....this man's car is starting to look real jurry rigged and though i owe him the assistance, it would be nice if i could be "un-surprised" about something.

[Super90]

Bill, that is exactly the issue!!

Off to buy a cheap wrench, then!

Thnks

[Bill R.]

bill, if i could get your attention please.....is there anything that is an "easy" fix on the 850 (ie doesn't involve more than solder and elbow grease) that is usually broken....this man's car is starting to look real jurry rigged and though i owe him the assistance, it would be nice if i could be "un-surprised" about something.

[AllanS]

I used the closed end of the wrench, and it worked fine- just had to wiggle it in. You have to be careful when torquing it- if you let the wrench alone while doing it, it can get jammed in there.

[Super90]

Next issues!

Bill, the modified wrench worked perfectly. Old left arm is out and the new one going in. I am trying to tighten the ball joint to the steering plate, but the tapered pin is just turning in there. How do we hold that still? We don't want to put the impact gun on it, do we?

While thinking about that, I went to the right side and am trying to get that ball joint to break loose. It's not so happy about the idea as its friend on the other side. I didn't even need the pickle fork on the left side. Trying to get the fork into the right side, but now the tines of the fork are hitting against the brake backing plate. Do we need to remove the rotor and backing plate to do this? I am coming in with the fork from the center line of the car and hitting toward that front right corner.

Thanks for the info guys. We're getting there!!

I love how easy the manual makes this sound.

[Bill R.]

something like a big clamp to push the arm down into the socket to lock the tapered pin from spinning.. or a long lever where you can pry the arm down while tightening the nut.. Its a morse taper on the pin and socket it seats into meaning that there are conflicting angles on them so if you squeeze it down into place tight it will lock the pin from turning...




Next issues!

Bill, the modified wrench worked perfectly. Old left arm is out and the new one going in. I am trying to tighten the ball joint to the steering plate, but the tapered pin is just turning in there. How do we hold that still? We don't want to put the impact gun on it, do we?

While thinking about that, I went to the right side and am trying to get that ball joint to break loose. It's not so happy about the idea as its friend on the other side. I didn't even need the pickle fork on the left side. Trying to get the fork into the right side, but now the tines of the fork are hitting against the brake backing plate. Do we need to remove the rotor and backing plate to do this? I am coming in with the fork from the center line of the car and hitting toward that front right corner.

Thanks for the info guys. We're getting there!!

I love how easy the manual makes this sound.

[Super90]

Gotcha! Now, are we using the pickle fork correctly? See above description.

I hate that thing!

[Bill R.]

backing plate...Some pickle forks have tines that are too long and you can grind the end of the tines off to shorten them... Who's we? You got a mouse in your pocket? (memories of my dad always saying that to me)





Gotcha! Now, are we using the pickle fork correctly? See above description.

I hate that thing!

[Super90]

Used Big C-clamp on the arm to the steering plate. Ball joint is tight and torqued!

Now, to get the other side loose.

I can smell victory!!!

[Super90]

Cut the tines off the end of the fork. Lots of room to work with now, but "I" am not getting anywhere!!!

Pickle fork is not popping this thing loose. I am hitting it as hard as I can, to no avail. Damn. I was afraid of this. My lower arms were like this too and I had to take it into the shop to do.

I have beaten on the end of the bolt trying to get the arm to hop out of there and I don't even think I could put the nut on there if I wanted.

Ideas? Do we try and use heat? Just afraid that all the other rubber boots are too close to get a plumbers torch in there.

[Bill R.]

much pressure as you can with the hand holding the picklefork and not let it rebound when you whack it. and you have to hold it at the right angle up and down to deliver as much energy as possible. If that fails you can remove the tierod which you probably already have with a tie rod puller and then remove the lower and upper arms at the frame , then take the 3 bolts out that hold the spindle plate to the bottom of the strut. Then you can remove the whole upper arm, lower arm and spindle plate from the car. This will allow you to either bolt it into a vise where you can get space to whack it good or give you room to use a suitable puller , in a lot of cases its easier to pull the whole assy like this.







Cut the tines off the end of the fork. Lots of room to work with now, but "I" am not getting anywhere!!!

Pickle fork is not popping this thing loose. I am hitting it as hard as I can, to no avail. Damn. I was afraid of this. My lower arms were like this too and I had to take it into the shop to do.

I have beaten on the end of the bolt trying to get the arm to hop out of there and I don't even think I could put the nut on there if I wanted.

Ideas? Do we try and use heat? Just afraid that all the other rubber boots are too close to get a plumbers torch in there.

[Super90]

I removed the steering plate, but will have to go to a friend's house to use his vise. I have a two armed puller. We'll see if that works. If not, I guess I'll have to find some other type of puller.

Any favorite pullers for this job?

Much appreciated,

[Bill R.]

down flat on the jaws and then smack the tapered threaded end straight down, when its supported by the vise you'll be driving only the stud and will have a pretty good chance of breaking it loose.. on the car when you whack it like that , it doesn't do much.







I removed the steering plate, but will have to go to a friend's house to use his vise. I have a two armed puller. We'll see if that works. If not, I guess I'll have to find some other type of puller.

Any favorite pullers for this job?

Much appreciated,

[Ian W]

I know it takes some of the fun out of the job but my method was:-

Buy the parts
jack up the car
look at the job
let down the car
drive to garage
watch the owners son do the job
complain about the weather
pay not a lot
drive home

works everytime , especially if you don,t have power tools.