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View Full Version : Finished with Heater control valve overhaul



Loke
06-23-2004, 09:55 AM
Just finished my HCV overhaul. Turned out one of the solenoids didnt work due to a torn off wire. It was near impossible to resolder it, so I ended up picking up a used one from the scrapyard. It also needed an overhaul, and taking the best parts from both gave me a decent HCV. Overall, the job was very easy IMO and well worth the trouble.

I noticed during the rebuild that you can easily check the HCV operation by blowing in one of the curcuit pipes, and blocking the other curcuit pipe. If the HCV is turned upside down, the valves should close and its nearly impossible to blow through the valve. One of my valves was obviously leaking somewhat (eg I managed to blow some air through), but I didnt think it had any effect. Surprisingly after assembly the driver side had a slightly warmer airflow than the passenger. This is surely due to the valve not being able to close completely. Its an old part, and you can hardly expect it to behave like a new. I'll just use this part untill I get enough money to buy a new HCV, as ultimately its the only solution which will guarantee flawless operation of the ICV.

I also did my aux water pump. Turned out the old one didnt move when connected to +12V. Also the impellers were gone (!), looked like theyve been acided away by something. When I received the new one, it didnt move either when applying +12V so I suspect there is some kind of electronic which start the pump when its supposed to. I really dont suspect that the new aux water pump doesnt work, because the heater system responds quickly to change. Anyone have an explanation for this?

Hope this could be of use to some of you.

Cheers

Scott E
06-23-2004, 10:48 AM
I am curious because I wrote some of the procedure :D

winfred
06-23-2004, 12:41 PM
it's just a 12 volt pump, hook power to it and it runs

Abnormal
06-23-2004, 02:53 PM
Where did you get it from? I just tried to rebuild mine, but I am still getting a cold/warm air mix.

Loke
06-23-2004, 02:59 PM
it's just a 12 volt pump, hook power to it and it runs

Are you sure? Because Ive tried 3 pumps now, and none of them move when applying +12V. One of them was even a new one, so I highly doubt its broken. I picked apart one of the old ones, and its definately some fancy electronics inside it. Im guessing a temp sensor is located inside the pump, which plays a role when the pump is starting and not...

Abnormal
06-23-2004, 03:04 PM
Made sure it was for 12V. Cut the cord and applied the power to the pump. Worked like a charm! Now if I can get the valve to work, I might be golden! :(

Unregistered
06-23-2004, 03:04 PM
Where did you get it from? I just tried to rebuild mine, but I am still getting a cold/warm air mix.

You must meassure the resistance on the 3-pin contact on the outside of the HCV. It will meassure either aprox 13.3 or 26.6 omh, depending on what pins you meassure on. If you get infinite resistance, the valve will always be open and thus always deliver heat to the interior.

Scott E; Yes, I think so :-) Its always good to read up on a task before undertaking it, so you have some idea what your up against. The most important part of the procedure, is to separate the two metal plates when opening the HCV. Else you risk tearing the solenoids and making the unit pretty much useless.

Loke
06-23-2004, 05:07 PM
Doh,

One of my probes was broken, both pumps work when applying +12V. Embarrasing :-P