Replacing Drive and A/C Serpentine Belts;

[BlackOnBlack]

Today I replaced both belts on my '92 525 M50;
I recall reading somewhere that the radiator shroud and fan clutch needed to be removed to get to the tensioner for the main drive belt from above.
I didn't need to.
I was able to get to both tensioners from underneath the car. I had jacked it up with the wheels off the ground to replace the strut links so it was up about 8 inches.
Both tensioners had the 8mm socket.
The main belt had to be removed over the fan and then put back over the fan to get it on the pulleys.
For the main belt, I slipped it around the power steering pulley last as I unloaded the tensioner.
For the A/C belt, I slipped it around the A/C pulley last as I unloaded that tensioner.
Thought at one point I'd need to get one of my boys for some help but it ended up being a solo job.
Just wanted to share in case anyone has questions about it.
Regards,
Steve

[632 Regal]

Good post, I might place this in the archives later. Usually at least on the 8 cylinders you have to draw a map how they go because there are multiple ways to do it. You must have remembered a bit to get it right.

[BlackOnBlack]

Yes, thank goodness for cell phone cameras. I took a picture of the original belt before I took it off...and you can see why in needed to be replaced! (Then still managed to route the new one incorrectly before looking at the picture again!)
Here's the shot I took before replacing it. It's from underneath on the driver's side. The power steering pump is in the foreground.
Proper routing is clockwise around power steering pump and crankshaft. Counter-clockwise up and around tensioner, clockwise around water-pump, counter-clockwise under idler, clockwise around alternator.
I didn't get a picture of the A/C belt but it's much simpler. Clockwise around crank, counter-clockwise up over tensioner, clockwise around compressor.
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