rust on bottom of door-quote

[Russell]

I got a quote for fixing rust on the bottom of my driver's door on my 95 525i. Keep in mind the 95s have Mtec "painted" trim pieces. This higher end restoration shop wanted $624.00 for one door. This included R/I door moldings, all painting inside teh door fram, sealing and various rust inhibitor sprays after repairing. He was also using the spray on the other three doors which do not show rust signs.

Even so this seems high. Labor rate was $45 per hour for almost 9 hours of labor.

BTW, this shop has an interesting bunch of cars currently in one of his shop building. @ corvetes gathering dust while waiting of rparts. Caynne with rear damage. Repairing rust and repaingan old riveria. looks like almost stripped down late 60' to early 70s Dodge Corronet or similar. Most interestingly what looked like two airpane wings in 4 sections. He has two other buildings I did not go into. When they fixed my front end a couple of years ago, there was a Porsche Carrrea and a cobra kit car being restored/built.

[Mr._Graybeard]

I just bought that M-tech door trim from BMA for $88 plus $14 shipping. My local stealer wanted $120. Factor in $50 for paint and other supplies, and the estimate rings pretty true.

[Russell]

I just bought that M-tech door trim from BMA for $88 plus $14 shipping. My local stealer wanted $120. Factor in $50 for paint and other supplies, and the estimate rings pretty true.
I think his price quote for the trim was abt $92. i know I can find the repair done cheaper, perhaps $450. However, these guys do restoration with rust issues on a regular basis.

[Mr._Graybeard]

That's the thing. There's a bodyman in my area who touches up rental trucks who works cheap, but the rust has returned on a couple projects I've sent him. I'd rather spend a few extra bucks and get it done right. I can do a quick an dirty job myself.

[Ross]

Quality metalwork is expensive, I'd say 9 hours is at least reasonable time to fabricate, properly install and finish a single door bottom.
The expense isn't merited here. With some patience you will find a rust free used door, perhaps in the correct color for far less money.
I paid north of a thousand to have two headlight doors rust repaired, but only because there are no replacements.

[philbyil]

Had a couple of slight bubbles appearing on my door bottoms, Got it done at a suburban Chicago BMW/Mercedes body shop. Cost me $1200 back then (plus I bought the trim parts!). However, they took the doors back to the bare metal, sprayed it up to the belt line and did a fabulous job. If you like your car, aim to keep it and want it done right you need to use a quality shop. Sounds like you found one......

[outomoneyracer]

I had all 4 door bottoms done about 4 years ago by a body man that did it on the side. He did a good job but the rust and bubbling is back again. I think it has alot to do with the strips that go on the bottom of the doors. I think they hold and trap water/salt in there and cause it to rust. I am thinking about taking the strips off, repairing rust and repainting and not putting the bottom door strips back on. There is foam weather stripping in the door jam which should keep dirt and water out of the car. Has anybody else taken these strips off and left them off? Or am I just asking for some other probs...Barry

[repenttokyo]

i've been quoted $100 per door by a shop that has done good work for me in the past.

[Russell]

i've been quoted $100 per door by a shop that has done good work for me in the past.

That seems terribly low. It would take a lot of time to grind all the rust off each door, rust proof, prime with rust inhibiting primer like epoxy, then add seam sealers etc. and two stage paint.

I assume that price is for labor only and did not incude trim pieces or materials. Materials would be at least $100. The 95s require the under door trim pieces to be painted and they are about $100 each.

[shogun]

I did it DIY 5-6 years ago and still fine. In general we do not have a lot of rust probs here where I live. Mainly the 2 front doors and a bit on the rear doors, but just the surface.
Took me in total 1 day with drying etc.
Grinding off rust from each door, then I used a rust converter
here one example, I did use a local stuff
http://corrosion-doctors.org/MetalCoatings/rust-converter.htm
FAQ http://www.gemplers.com/tech/mremovefaq.htm
prime, 2 stage paint, clear paint, and new rubber protections at the bottom of the doors, thow the old ones away, they are bended and could start rust again and anyway do not look nice.
That is a nice DIY job, even for beginners, as most of the work is done at the bottom of the door, inside, which is barely visibsle, so small beginner faults should be o.k.

here a good write up from classic cars
http://classiccars.about.com/od/restorationbasics/ss/GotRust.htm

Rust is a complicated electrochemical process whereby a metal is converted to an oxide whenever it comes in contact with oxygen in the presence of moisture, and that can happen even in the protective custody of your garage. Because of that, the longer you own a car, it’s more than likely that one day you’ll find rust on it.

The standard approach to rust removal has been to sand blast or scrape down to bare metal, prime with a rust-inhibiting primer and then paint. When we come across rust on our cars or restoration project, we found using rust converters in the form of brush-on liquids to be an attractive alternative.

To show you how well a rust converter can work, we'll demonstrate with this heavily rusted and flaking interior magazine holder we found in our most current restoration of a 1961 Jaguar Mark 2.

The first thing you need to do before applying the rust converter is to remove loose particles of rust and debris with a wire brush, scrapper or rag. You can see that we took the flaky rusted metal down to a smooth surface but left plenty of surface rust. This is important because rust converters depend upon a layer of rust being present to be effective.

Next, we used a vacuum cleaner to remove fine particles and denatured alcohol as a degreaser; mineral spirits would work as well. This step makes sure that other surface contaminants will not interfere with the reaction of the rust converter on the rusted area. Make sure that the surface dries completely before you apply the converter.

Choose a water based rust converter like Eastwoods or Corroseal that contain two active ingredients; tannic acid and an organic polymer. The tannic acid reacts with iron oxide (rust) and chemically converts it to iron tannate, a dark-colored stable material. The organic polymer (2-Butoxyethanol) provides a protective primer layer. The overall chemical reaction converts rust into a stable, black protective polymeric coating.


Make sure you use gloves and safety glasses in a well ventilated area that is between 50 and 90 degree Fahrenheit during the application process and follow the manufactures instruction. The consistency of most converters is pretty thick and is more easily rolled or brushed on, but it's thin enough to flow into cracks and seams.

We applied two thin coats to our Jags magazine holder within twenty minutes of each other and all the rust had turned to black. Once it cures for forty eight hours, we'll be able to paint and attach its accessories.

The entire process took about 2 hours and cost less than ten dollars to convert the rust into a paintable, protective, black layer that will seal out moisture and protect this part against any future corrosion.

They have everything you need
http://www.eastwood.com

[Mr._Graybeard]

You're lucky, Erich. Where I am in Wisconsin, rust is a car-killer.

I'm working on a little surface rust under the taillight of my E34 at the moment. I spotted what I thought was a bubble the size of a pea, removed the light and discovered that the pea-size bubble was more like a quarter -- maybe 2 cm in diameter.

I removed all the rust with sandpaper and a phosphoric acid product called Naval Jelly. I like Naval Jelly because you can apply a thick layer to a rusty area, cover it with saran and it will stay moist for hours -- enough time to dissolve the surface rust and deposit a layer of iron phosphate. Rinse it off and it's ready for paint.

After that I like to use POR15. My brother in law, who works in coatings for 3M, calls it moisture cure acrylic paint (it's NOT a 3M product). It does require a specialized primer, but once it's cured, it's impervious to rust.

I gave the bottom of my driver's door a similar treatment in 2007, and it's held up fine for three years. Unfortunately, I couldn't treat the metal in the door's trim strip, though, and it rusted to pieces on the car. I should have just replaced it right away instead of trying to salvage it. I would never buy the trim used. Plastic elements age, crack and let moisture in to do its damage.

Barry (outomoneyracer), I'd install some new seals and make sure the rust repair is done right. Fresh paint can look great but less-than-meticulous metal prep can come back to haunt you. You might show the new rust to your bodyman and see what he has to say for himself.

[Ross]

That seems terribly low. It would take a lot of time to grind all the rust off each door, rust proof, prime with rust inhibiting primer like epoxy, then add seam sealers etc. and two stage paint.

I assume that price is for labor only and did not incude trim pieces or materials. Materials would be at least $100. The 95s require the under door trim pieces to be painted and they are about $100 each.
$100 will get you a "pave and paint" job, slather on some bondo and cover your sins. Good paint is ~sixty bucks a quart and up, plus primer, sand paper, clear coat,.....

[repenttokyo]

That seems terribly low. It would take a lot of time to grind all the rust off each door, rust proof, prime with rust inhibiting primer like epoxy, then add seam sealers etc. and two stage paint.

I assume that price is for labor only and did not incude trim pieces or materials. Materials would be at least $100. The 95s require the under door trim pieces to be painted and they are about $100 each.

it really depends on how bad the rust is. Not having seen pics, I can't say what it would cost for the OP. But for my car, this is what it would cost. I had the trim pieces required.


$100 will get you a "pave and paint" job, slather on some bondo and cover your sins. Good paint is ~sixty bucks a quart and up, plus primer, sand paper, clear coat,.....

As I have said - this is not a random shop, they have done good work for me in the past. If you have a good relationship with a shop, pricing becomes more flexible than if you walk in cold off of the street.

I ended up not doing it because I just bought a new daily driver. I am keeping the E34 but it will serve in a different role in our fleet.

[Ross]

As I have said - this is not a random shop, they have done good work for me in the past. If you have a good relationship with a shop, pricing becomes more flexible than if you walk in cold off of the street.


I'm not doubting you. That is great, extraordinary actually. Not sure if you realize that. Few here will be so fortunate hence my caution.
Where I live it would need to be my WIFE having the special relationship with the shop owner for repairs at that price.

[repenttokyo]

I'm not doubting you. That is great, extraordinary actually. Not sure if you realize that. Few here will be so fortunate hence my caution.
Where I live it would need to be my WIFE having the special relationship with the shop owner for repairs at that price.

hehe, understood.

[outomoneyracer]

Hey Greybeard I see your a fellow cheese head, I'm in Appleton
You're lucky, Erich. Where I am in Wisconsin, rust is a car-killer.

I'm working on a little surface rust under the taillight of my E34 at the moment. I spotted what I thought was a bubble the size of a pea, removed the light and discovered that the pea-size bubble was more like a quarter -- maybe 2 cm in diameter.

I removed all the rust with sandpaper and a phosphoric acid product called Naval Jelly. I like Naval Jelly because you can apply a thick layer to a rusty area, cover it with saran and it will stay moist for hours -- enough time to dissolve the surface rust and deposit a layer of iron phosphate. Rinse it off and it's ready for paint.

After that I like to use POR15. My brother in law, who works in coatings for 3M, calls it moisture cure acrylic paint (it's NOT a 3M product). It does require a specialized primer, but once it's cured, it's impervious to rust.

I gave the bottom of my driver's door a similar treatment in 2007, and it's held up fine for three years. Unfortunately, I couldn't treat the metal in the door's trim strip, though, and it rusted to pieces on the car. I should have just replaced it right away instead of trying to salvage it. I would never buy the trim used. Plastic elements age, crack and let moisture in to do its damage.

Barry (outomoneyracer), I'd install some new seals and make sure the rust repair is done right. Fresh paint can look great but less-than-meticulous metal prep can come back to haunt you. You might show the new rust to your bodyman and see what he has to say for himself.

[Mr._Graybeard]

Yep. there's a big Upper Midwest presence on this board, especially Chicagoans (the board's owner works at Knauz, I believe), but also a handful of Wisconsinites and Minnesotans.