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View Full Version : Any way to dissolve Red Loctite?



Jehu
04-25-2009, 03:15 AM
Got some on the Steering Wheel spline I guess when I tightened down the bolt after swapping wheels and then I find it wasn't actually centered . Now I can't pull it off. Tell me there is something that I can drip into the spline that will break this insane bond...This has to have happened to someone before. Everywhere I read the answer is Acetylene Torch etc.. high heat.. That's not going to be an option for the steering wheel for obvious reasons.. Acetone maybe? Hydrochloric Acid? I wish I read this was this strong a bond I'd have been much more careful. I just thought it was a mild thing to keep the bolt from loosening .. I was able to break the Nut which I Liberally dosed with this stuff and that kind of gives me some hope I can pull the wheel off without destroying the telescoping mechanism..

bsell
04-25-2009, 03:24 AM
You didn't say but have you broken out the puller yet?

Something like this:
http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kti70330.html

I've had some wheels stuck on (minus locktite) that almost broke my puller. I had to tighten the center nut (maximum pull) and then smack the wheel with a BFH. When she broke, it went off like an explosion...so be careful.

If the puller can't power through the locktite, then you have to heat it per:
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/questions.asp?answerme=125#cat125

Sorry,

Brian

Jehu
04-25-2009, 03:40 AM
I still wonder if there is a fluid chemical which The manufacturer is not interested in being widely known as being able to break the bond of their product.. I haven't used a puller ,no I just did this this afternoon.

SnakeyesTx
04-25-2009, 09:09 AM
I second the puller idea.

Even the directions on the locktite should say use 1 drop on the threads >_< Also, for future reference, there's different grades of locktite. Blue (which comes in a red bottle) is the best choice for anything that you need to remove with hand tools (with some effort) later.

If the puller fails, I've removed a wheel with a second person before. One has to grip the wheel and put constant pulling pressure on it while the other hits the shaft with a hand-held sledge of about 3 pounds or so. You have to hit it dead on so you don't mash up the threads but if you hit them just right the shaft will push in ever so slightly to break the bond.

mzarifkar
04-25-2009, 11:49 AM
I think loctite forms a polymer with itself by extending a double carbon carbon bond. If it were to be soluble, which i think is unlikely, try something organic such as alcohol or acetone. Generally carbon carbon bonds are a pain to break, releasing a lot of energy in the process.

Here is my wacky suggestion:

Get some dry ice and freeze the parts in question. maybe the contraction of the metal, along with the polymer becoming more brittle may weaken the loctite

Jehu
04-25-2009, 04:42 PM
I second the puller idea.

Even the directions on the Loctite should say use 1 drop on the threads >_< Also, for future reference, there's different grades of Loctite. Blue (which comes in a red bottle) is the best choice for anything that you need to remove with hand tools (with some effort) later.

If the puller fails, I've removed a wheel with a second person before. One has to grip the wheel and put constant pulling pressure on it while the other hits the shaft with a hand-held sledge of about 3 pounds or so. You have to hit it dead on so you don't mash up the threads but if you hit them just right the shaft will push in ever so slightly to break the bond.

I know that possibly would have prevented the excess tranferage but I was able to budge the thing a millimeter or so so maybe I can get it off with a steering wheel puller.. It was a nice clean fit before ,slipped right on.. Wish I could find the "DIY" write up which mentioned red Loctite.. I stupidly just took it at face value and only after this read about its uber tenacity.. fine for places one can use a torch or swing a sledge hammer..

Not this..
http://home.comcast.net/~cpkver8/images/wheelon.JPG

Bill R.
04-25-2009, 05:54 PM
Got some on the Steering Wheel spline I guess when I tightened down the bolt after swapping wheels and then I find it wasn't actually centered . Now I can't pull it off. Tell me there is something that I can drip into the spline that will break this insane bond...This has to have happened to someone before. Everywhere I read the answer is Acetylene Torch etc.. high heat.. That's not going to be an option for the steering wheel for obvious reasons.. Acetone maybe? Hydrochloric Acid? I wish I read this was this strong a bond I'd have been much more careful. I just thought it was a mild thing to keep the bolt from loosening .. I was able to break the Nut which I Liberally dosed with this stuff and that kind of gives me some hope I can pull the wheel off without destroying the telescoping mechanism..


You do have the key turned to the on position? It won't come off otherwise.

BMW4LIFE
04-25-2009, 06:43 PM
this is a random and wild guess but maybe try something like brake fluid...its seems to break down everything else...

i would imagine HCl would be your best choice...be careful as it is very acidic and will ruin everything...leather, seats, carpet, etc...


have plenty of h20 next to you just in case...oh and wear some gloves!

632 Regal
04-26-2009, 12:33 AM
WTF? You serious? I have NEVER read this anywhere...LOL My goodness.


You do have the key turned to the on position? It won't come off otherwise.

3gunF1guy
04-27-2009, 10:35 AM
Go to home depot and get a small hand held torch. I have one in my tool box that take these little propane containers that look like a Bic lighter. or get a small tip for a regular torch. Heat just the center bolt with the puller on it. The more heat you give it the looser the bond gets.

Scott

Jehu
04-27-2009, 12:14 PM
gale suggested getting a longer bolt and doing that but I can't easily fit a puller.. this wheel has no place to bolt onto itself... if In had a shop I might,might be able to make a plate to fit into where the airbag bolts in but that isn't even within sight at the moment.. I looked for a bolt at Lowe's yesterday and no luck. 16mm bolts aren't falling out of the sky..

http://home.comcast.net/~cpkver8/images/Swheel1.JPG

Also if anyone can tell me what that white plastic clip is for I'd appreciate it.. I was able to budge the wheel a millimeter or so and that clip was then catching on the spline teeth so I had to remove it.. what is its function? Some sensor relating to steering wheel position? Lock? Air Bag deployment?

Jehu
04-27-2009, 12:51 PM
Interesting update.. I called Loctite who referred me to Dynaloy who makes Dynasolve 100
http://www.dynaloy.com/ProductFinder/tech_data_sheets/Dynasolve%20100%20PDF.pdf

They state it should dissolve with some time the Methacrylate thread lock, its more effective when heated before application but the smallest containers are 1 quart and cost basically $90.. which is about what it might cost a shop to reset my Toe..anyway good to know if i actually need it its available and If i get it I'll have most of a quart left over if anyone else is as unfortunate as me and red thread locks something they can't torch and hammer it free.

Rus
04-27-2009, 02:31 PM
As someone mentioned before, you could use a small butane torch like This One (http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/BLZ-MT3000.html) and shield everything around the area from heat. Maybe a high power soldering iron will do the trick too (150-300 watt). I doubt you'd cause damage to anything if you don't go nuts with heat. Just my $.02. Also, why does that area even need a threadlocking compound? Every steering wheel I've ever pulled never had a drop of anything on the threads and never has issues with loosening nuts/bolts.

Jehu
04-27-2009, 09:59 PM
As someone mentioned before, you could use a small butane torch like This One (http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/BLZ-MT3000.html) and shield everything around the area from heat. Maybe a high power soldering iron will do the trick too (150-300 watt). I doubt you'd cause damage to anything if you don't go nuts with heat. Just my $.02. Also, why does that area even need a threadlocking compound? Every steering wheel I've ever pulled never had a drop of anything on the threads and never has issues with loosening nuts/bolts.


I can't remember where I read in a DIY on-line to USE RED THREADLOCK. I went out and bought it specifically to do the steering wheel.. Oh it also said it was a 22mm nut..hmmm mine was 16mm ... had pics though....

MBXB
04-27-2009, 10:38 PM
Find someone with one of those old school Weller/Wen soldering guns. You can keep the heat very localized.