PDA

View Full Version : Yet another "It won't start" question. *New Member*



bkoski
01-03-2009, 02:48 PM
1994 530i 5speed
123,xxx miles

This vehicle has been driven approximately 1,000 miles in the last two years, hence, it sits A LOT. I recently had the radiator and cooling hoses replaced, though I don't suspect this to be a factor.

A few days ago I drove the car to work, a drive of around 2 miles. Car started up with a bit of hesitation as it was below 30 degrees F. After work I got into the car and attempted to start it with no success. As soon as I turned the key to "ignition" the engine turned over once and then not at all, seemed like a dead battery to me. With the key in the "on" position there were no lights on the dash, once again I just assumed the battery was dead. My parents happened to be in town on vacation so I had them come by and try to jump-start my Bimmer. The car we used was a 2000 Acura TL. With the cables attached properly I attempted to crank the engine, it would barely turn over and felt like we were drawing power from an EXTREMELY weak battery. The car never started.

We eventually gave up trying to jump the car as I felt we were getting nowhere and didn't want to further damage it somehow. I brought the battery home and put it on my charger overnight. The battery itself is no more than a year old.

With the battery fully charged I went back this morning to give it one more attempt. This is where I became confused. I have no mechanical/electrical knowledge but there is something strange going on with my car.

Connected battery and tried door locks. Worked as normal.
Turned key to "on" position (position 2 I believe). Dash lights up as normal and you can hear pumps/motors whatever under the hood spooling up.
But as soon as I try start position everything dies. Key back to on position and there are no lights on dash. Try electric door locks and nothing.

The strange part, is if I simply disconnect then reconnect the battery, it's like starting the whole process over, all electrical accessories work properly until I try and start the engine, then everything goes dead unless I disconnect and reconnect the batt.

Is this some sort of relay issue or do I need a new starter? New alternator? Maybe a fuse somewhere I hope? My intentions are to get the car running reliably so I can sell it. I'm a sucker for the E34 M5 and I can afford one now as soon as I get rid of my 530i.

Thanks in advance. -Brett

tim eh?
01-03-2009, 03:46 PM
i think the first (and cheapest) things to check are your battery terminals and fusible links.

http://www.bmwe34.net/Wiki/tiki-index.php?page=Fusible+link

welcome aboard! bookmark that site it is the best on the web.

Ross
01-03-2009, 03:48 PM
The battery seems weak. Or a corroded connection(starter cable?) causing high resistance somewhere.
Just because the battery is only a year old and spent a night on a charger doesn't mean it's any good.
Ryanroopnarine posted a while back on reviving batteries in a state of deep discharge. His method has worked well for me and I now offer him my belated thanks.

bkoski
01-03-2009, 04:09 PM
Thank you so much for the quick responses. I'll give them a shot and probably buy another battery just in case.

This car has turned into a nickel-and-dimer. Though as you all know the nickels = $500 and the dimes, $1000... As you also know, so completely worth it when you get on the freeway and your '94 BMW can keep pace with brand new American cars.

repenttokyo
01-03-2009, 04:11 PM
Thank you so much for the quick responses. I'll give them a shot and probably buy another battery just in case.

This car has turned into a nickel-and-dimer. Though as you all know the nickels = $500 and the dimes, $1000... As you also know, so completely worth it when you get on the freeway and your '94 BMW can keep pace with brand new American cars.

american cars, eh?

tim eh?
01-03-2009, 04:14 PM
Though as you all know ....

yeah, we know.

Rus
01-05-2009, 09:18 AM
I've had similar symptoms on another car of mine. Would refuse to turn over and upon measuring the voltage in the circuits I observed it go to 12 volts right after the battery was connected, but drop to about 5 or 6 once a starting attempt was made. Then the voltage remained low until the battery was messed with again. End result: bought new battery terminals and the car was back on the road. Check your terminals and see if they've become corroded and are not making good contact. Also check that they're firmly attached to their wires. HTH

rockin1978TA
01-06-2009, 11:28 AM
My wifes 89' 535I had the same problem. Hers would kill the battery, and wouldn't charge the battery with a new altenator, starter and battery. Turned out, it was the black 2 wire locking connector, below the starter, that the wire off the altenator goes to, was cracked and corroded.

adrian.j
01-26-2009, 12:45 PM
im having a little bit of a starting problem also...its about 7 degrees here in milwaukee and starting my 525 can be a real bitch.:(... it cranks for about two seconds then gets realy weak to the point that it wont crank anymore.the radio and other electronics still work but cranking stops if i stress it. i think it might be the altonator but not really sure... maybe the starter.. any insight

DaveVoorhis
01-26-2009, 01:20 PM
it cranks for about two seconds then gets realy weak to the point that it wont crank anymore
Bad battery.

adrian.j
01-29-2009, 07:07 PM
still havn't replaced the battery... but still tried to fire it up after 3 days of sitting... all the lights and radio come on but when i try to start it, it has a loud click!click!click!click! noise... kinda sounds like if the starter if its broken

nirvana19
01-29-2009, 07:18 PM
It's definitely the battery. Starters not broken, you hear the click click sound when the battery is low and you try to crank

DaveVoorhis
01-29-2009, 07:57 PM
it has a loud click!click!click!click! noise...
Bad battery.

adrian.j
01-29-2009, 08:02 PM
thanks for the solution you guys are always so helpful... it makes me proud to be able to say im a BMW owner:D

632 Regal
01-29-2009, 09:05 PM
too thick of oil in serious cold does not help things at all. One time many years ago it started getting really cold so I picked up some Mobil one on my way to work and called a buddy who said I could change it in his shop. The temperature was cold and the truck would not start, same symptom as many in this thread. Started at home the garage was warm, at work in the open turned the oil into grease and ended towing the truck to the shop. Changed the oil and charged the battery. Next day at work it turned over like it was 70 degrees.

If you don't experience anything like this yourself you wouldn't give it any thought.

Just my 2¢

repenttokyo
01-30-2009, 12:03 AM
too thick of oil in serious cold does not help things at all. One time many years ago it started getting really cold so I picked up some Mobil one on my way to work and called a buddy who said I could change it in his shop. The temperature was cold and the truck would not start, same symptom as many in this thread. Started at home the garage was warm, at work in the open turned the oil into grease and ended towing the truck to the shop. Changed the oil and charged the battery. Next day at work it turned over like it was 70 degrees.

If you don't experience anything like this yourself you wouldn't give it any thought.

Just my 2¢

was it a diesel?

632 Regal
01-30-2009, 12:31 AM
No was a 350

was it a diesel?
chevy V8 really cranked slow in the cold before I went to M1 oil. This was way back in time when synthetics were not popular and at the time I was reading about it for the race car. The truck had 10w 40 conventional which I would have changed for the winter anyways but figured I would do the synthetic to see if there were any real life benefits... changed the future for oil in my cars since.

Tiger
01-30-2009, 11:43 AM
Synthetic oil really does make a difference, regardless of diesel or gas. Heck, I just switched back to dino for my diesel... 15W40 and starts right up at 8 degree, no engine block heater.