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Ken35i
12-17-2008, 03:14 AM
Howdy,

Almost exactly like my last thread...
here. (http://www.bimmernut.com/forum/showthread.php?t=40008)
I'm trying to do up this nut on my rear shocker but the friggen shaft is turning with the nut. I can't really hold the shaft in place with anything because the nut isn't far down enough :-/. And I can't hold the shaft in place with clamps/wrench's.
Any ideas? :(
Picture below...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v318/kenskee/rearstrut1.jpg

Ken35i
12-17-2008, 04:01 AM
Hmm. Kinda managed to get one on. But chewed the hell out of the top bit (6mm squared off bit).

Rus
12-17-2008, 08:30 AM
Try using some needlenose pliers wrapped in electrical tape below the nut. From the picture it looks as if there is a bit of space below the nut to grasp with thin pliers. Then once the top of the shaft is above the nut, use the needle nose pliers on top. HTH

Dave M
12-17-2008, 08:34 AM
If you have an impact wrench (electric or air), give it a quick shot.

Dave

Ross
12-17-2008, 10:30 AM
You can grab the top of the rod through the spring with a vise grip and a rag, the shock never compresses that far so don't worry if you bugger it up a bit.

Ken35i
12-17-2008, 04:26 PM
You can grab the top of the rod through the spring with a vise grip and a rag, the shock never compresses that far so don't worry if you bugger it up a bit.

This worked for a bit but the grip just wasn't strong enough. But enough to expose the squared off bit at the top a bit more then I used a shifter on it.

Thanks all. :)

vping
12-17-2008, 05:12 PM
I'm in the middle of doing mine and luckily, like the OE ones, the KYB's I got have a hole for an allen key to fit into. I cannot use the impact but at least I can hold both into place while I tighten. How about a piece of rubber in some channel locks on the shaft until you can get it down farther.

Ken35i
12-17-2008, 07:26 PM
The fronts (both stock and Bilstiens) have the hex socket at the top of the stem. WAY easier. The rears don't. Though i've only seen Bilstien rears.

bad_manners_god
12-17-2008, 08:15 PM
You can grab the top of the rod through the spring with a vise grip and a rag, the shock never compresses that far so don't worry if you bugger it up a bit.

+1....very common method at our garage, works well too. Usually an impact and holding the shaft with your hand will suffice to get the job done.

Ken35i
12-18-2008, 03:56 AM
These new nyloc nuts grip the thread pretty damn well. I had vice grips on the shocker shaft pretty f'ing tight and it still spun doing up this nut...I wonder if they are THAT necessary. I think a 'flared' nut and LocTite should suffice.

Dave M
12-18-2008, 09:36 AM
These new nyloc nuts grip the thread pretty damn well. I had vice grips on the shocker shaft pretty f'ing tight and it still spun doing up this nut...I wonder if they are THAT necessary. I think a 'flared' nut and LocTite should suffice.


I'd hate to give advice that ended in a broken shock shelf, but if it was that difficult to perform a simple task, I'd be tempted to spin on two plain jane metric nuts and lock em together.

But thats me ;)

Dave

632 Regal
12-18-2008, 10:25 AM
Loctite trick will work. could also put a reg nut on there and drive to a shop that has an impact gun and have it done right.
These new nyloc nuts grip the thread pretty damn well. I had vice grips on the shocker shaft pretty f'ing tight and it still spun doing up this nut...I wonder if they are THAT necessary. I think a 'flared' nut and LocTite should suffice.

Tiger
12-18-2008, 11:01 AM
I would put it on the old struts to expand the nylock a bit and then try again. Never had any problem installing new nuts.

Ross
12-18-2008, 11:32 AM
The purpose of any "prevailing torque" fastener is to be tight. They are also intended for a single use.
With as much difficulty as the OP had I'll say the threads were buggered a bit. Too late now but Dave's advice was a simple solution.

Ken35i
12-18-2008, 10:07 PM
The purpose of any "prevailing torque" fastener is to be tight. They are also intended for a single use.
With as much difficulty as the OP had I'll say the threads were buggered a bit. Too late now but Dave's advice was a simple solution.

Not too late. Had to do some Christmas shopping for myself yesturday...;)
I've only done one, haven't attached it to the car yet and it hasn't been torqued right. The threads are a little bit rusted just from sitting in the shed and a cold breeze blowing in (having winter weather in summer atm.) but I've cleaned them up best I could.
Just thinking later on down the track when I'll need to pull it appart again for anything (upgrades :p) and I'll be kicking my self trying to undo the nut on this.