LOWER control arm labor time??

[Russell]

Any idea what number of hours should it take to replace the lLOWER control arms.

Also, Bentley makes it seem rather easy for a DIY project. I have not have a lift or air wrenches. Just ramps and floor jacks.

Even so, I may get my Indy to do. it My lower control arms have about 150,000 miles on them. The upper thrust arms have been replaced. TIA

[BigKriss]

lower control arms can be done with just ramps and a floor jack and hand tools. (i did it). you remove the 3 bolts from the bottom end of the strut. then you undo the tie rod connecting to it and i think the lower swaybar link ball joint.

once the plate connecting the control arms is taken off - you undo the bolt on the lower control arm and hammer it out placing it on some bricks or sockets (Bill R method).

I would say 2 hours per side, working at home, or 1.5 hours at a shop.

[E34-520iSE]

I agree. working at home you should be able to do each side in two hours. Before I did mine I took the step of ordering a complete set of bolts for the inner lower arm bush and the 3 lower strut carrier bolts so I could be content that everything would torque up OK on re-assembly, and would be easy to remove in future. They only cost a few pounds for the lot.

HTH,

Shaun M

[e34.535i.sport]

I reckon if the garage had the inclination they could do it in an hour. Didn't take me long and I done it on the drive with a jack and a jackstand. It's a peice of piss with the right tools.

I wouldn't even attempt the job without one of these -
http://www.toolbay.biz/i/prods/0282.jpg

The procedure is outlined here in detail, but it's very simple once you get down there. I just jacked up one side, undone the three bolts that hold the small plate to the hub area and dropped it down (needed a tap with a hammer). This exposes the nut for the Lower control arm... Undo the nut (you may need a breaker bar) but leave it on to help with the next part - get the tool shown above and use it to 'unlock' the balljoint. It will pop out so don't be worried when it does! There's also a pivot bolt on the other end... One side you can hold with a spanner and the other side can be undone with a ratchet or small breaker bar.

Slap the new one in and torque the bolts correctly. The pivot bolt needs to be torqued under load. You will more than likely need your tracking done after this too.

Don't pay a garage to do something you can do yourself thats my motto... I can't afford to that with a car this age!

[BigKriss]

yeah, the tool is required about also to take the tierod off.

[Russell]

Thanks for the advice. I may try it. Looks easier than the upper arms.

Any advice on how to tell if they are bad? I get a braking vibration at any speed that continues until I am stopped. I suspect rotors.

FYI, my upper control/thrust arms have been repaced about 25,000 miles ago. NO vibration at speed, especially 50-65 mph. TIA

[e34.535i.sport]

Thanks for the advice. I may try it. Looks easier than the upper arms.

Any advice on how to tell if they are bad?

I tried prying at mine with the car jacked up and found nothing wrong with my passenger side. Then a wise man advised me to jack the car up leaving the wheel on and grab it at 3o'clock and 9o'clock and try to move the wheel... If there is play get someone else to move the wheel around as you did and look at the Lower Control arm balljoint... Mine was all over the place!

BTW the upper arms are much easier to replace IMHO!