Transmission Problems, i think?

[Calico_NC]

Lately my transmission seems to be screwing up. It happens mostly when first accelerating seems like it doesn't want to change into 2nd gear. It shakes violently and if i press the gas, it doesn't accelerate. Sometimes it will eventually catch and accelerate, but other times i will have to cut the car off, let the codes clear, and restart; after which it works fine. It mostly does this when first accelerating in the early gears, but it also does this when switching to the last gear sometimes. The Trans program will pop up on the OBC, and the acceleration would die. It would not accelerate at all (not like the typical trans program message); until i restart. So my question is, do you think it could be just a sensor or a bad transmission? Hopefully not the transmission since I recently just paid for a new catalytic converter which put me back $1800. I'm really getting tired of these problems. It's looking more and more like I'm going to have to end up getting rid of it. Hope not though

P.S A while back, a mechanic said the transmission mounts were cracked, could that be the problem here?

[whiskychaser]

Best bet is get fault codes read and go from there. Hope its just a sensor

[bimmo_2007]

Hi, Shakes on the 1st or 2nd gear could be caused by cracked mounts, Trans Program message caused by electrical problem (sensor, solenoid, etc...) or even valve body,the best bet as whiskychaser said is to go & get the fault codes read.

But I should tell you that this exact problem happened to me two years ago on 535i & it was caused by dirt inside the valve body, it wasn't clean so I went to some local workshop & got the valve body cleaned -2 hours job-, try this.

Good luck

[Ross]

From your description it sounds like the valve body is acting up, could be electronics, could be "hard" parts failing. One thing is certain, continued operation WILL ruin the trans.
Changing fluid isn't the answer but won't hurt. If it dies immediately afterwards don't blame it on the fluid cahange, it was already dying.
Find an expert, not a chain trans shop, and get an opinion. With 183k unless it's had very good care it's probably near the end.
Good luck.

[Ross]

From your description it sounds like the valve body is acting up, could be electronics, could be "hard" parts failing. One thing is certain, continued operation WILL ruin the trans. Have you looked at the fluid? It's color, smell and level?
Changing fluid isn't the answer but won't hurt. If it dies immediately afterwards don't blame it on the fluid cahange, it was already dying.
Find an expert, not a chain trans shop, and get an opinion. With 183k unless it's had very good care it's probably near the end.
Good luck.

[Calico_NC]

I'll check into the valve body theory, but in the meantime,..

I checked the transmission fluid, even though I know thats not the problem, but does it suppose to have a dip stick? One reason I ask is because I have a "ATF Oil Only" container in the bay with a sort of dip stick looking shaft that reaches into the container. It has two markings on the shaft itself, sort of like the oil dip stick. The level is full, i think, but does the fluid suppose to be hot? Because i thought i read somewhere that the fluid is suppose to be hot. My fluid is not hot at all. Could it be a clog or something in the transmission fluid line?

Im just taking guesses now because im at least 200 miles away from my regular shop (and probably the only good shop within 100 miles) and the only way to get there would be to pull it on a trailer.


Just to update on problems:
I was kinda off in my diagnosis of the problem. The car works fine when just starting up. Shifts gears ok, and drives fine all the way up to the last gear. BUT, when i come to a stop, it seems like the car doesn't shift back down. After stopping, i'll try and take off, and the car will vibrate real hard and not accelerate at all. It will try to catch and shift, but wont. Reverse will work (with a lil bit of shaking), but the forward gears don't accelerate at all. Only after a fresh restart will the car work as normal. This same process repeats after about two or three times of coming to a complete stop. Just an update

[whiskychaser]

I checked the transmission fluid, even though I know thats not the problem, but does it suppose to have a dip stick? One reason I ask is because I have a "ATF Oil Only" container in the bay with a sort of dip stick looking shaft that reaches into the container. It has two markings on the shaft itself, sort of like the oil dip stick. The level is full, i think, but does the fluid suppose to be hot? Because i thought i read somewhere that the fluid is suppose to be hot. My fluid is not hot at all. Could it be a clog or something in the transmission fluid line?
[/I]
I dont think your car has a tranny oil dipstick. If what your a looking at is this:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=HD68&mospid=47405&btnr=32_0022&hg=32&fg=20
thats the power steering reservoir

[Ross]

There is no dipstick for your trans. The fluid level is checked from underneath with the car running, warm in park. Nice, huh?
The resevoir you describe is for the power steering.
Whatever is going on sounds to be very rough on the trans, it's already old. Continuing to drive this way is asking for it in a big way.

[Calico_NC]

okay, thats what i was looking at. Wonder why they label it "ATF Oil" Doesn't that stand for Automatic Transmission Fluid? lol But im probably going to have to pull it on a trailer to the shop. The problems just get bigger and bigger.

[Ross]

Good luck, wise move to stop driving. Yes, ATF stands for automatic transmission fluid. Other hydraulic systems use it as well, such as power steering.

[bimmo_2007]

okay, thats what i was looking at. Wonder why they label it "ATF Oil" Doesn't that stand for Automatic Transmission Fluid? lol But im probably going to have to pull it on a trailer to the shop. The problems just get bigger and bigger.



OK buddy, & let us know. wish you best of luck.

[Bimmerlife]

:( :( I just got my tranny re-placed in my 1994 BMW 540i, I had the same problem. the problem was fixed, so i assume, 20 miles into to my travel the car felt like it did not want to move. Took the car back to the shop, i was told that the tranny computer is bad, and electric wires is no good, which make the tranny unable to send message to the OBC.i dont believe the diagnose the ive gotten. should i have the shop check the valve. NO MASSAGE ON THE OBC:(

[ThoreauHD]

Jesus H Christ Bimmerlife. WTF.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/toasty0z/stupidposts.gif


In regards to Calico:

"a mechanic said the transmission mounts were cracked, could that be the problem here?" Yes, I would say a mechanic would know this. Secondarily, it could be that you've never changed the fluid in 200K miles.. but I'm just spitballing here.

5 X Red Line Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid - 1 Quart. Vehicle requires 3.2 quarts(1 extra just in case)
Part# RLATL- $8.95

Transmission Mount - Left
Part # : 24 70 1 138 427- $22.95

Transmission Mount - Right
Part # : 24 70 1 138 428- $22.95

Automatic Transmission Filter Kit
Part # : 24 11 1 899 KIT- $59.95

Flex Disc - 6 Hole - diameter = 135mm Automatic Transmisson
Part # : 26 11 1 209 168- $ 48.95

Flex Disc Nut - 12mm
Part # : 07 12 9 900 047- $0.95

Buy all of the crap above. Find a good independent BMW mechanic. Tell him to put it in. The end. If the trans fluid has not been changed in a long long time, you will want to rinse, repeat the trans/filter change after 5K miles due to crap floating around.

Just to give you an idea of the proper way to treat any car. The oil and filter are changed every 5-10K miles, assuming synthetic. The transmission and filter are changed every 60K miles. The fuel filters go between 30-50K miles, depending on if you buy 7-11 gas regularly. Microfilter/Cabin filter- 15K miles. Air filter- Variable, but around 20-30K miles depending on environment. Oh, and also don't date psychos. That helps extend the life of the car. And that's about it. Good luck.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y106/toasty0z/bimmer1.jpg

[Calico_NC]

I just got the call back from the shop. They said the transmission needs to be replaced. They said look for a good use one for and parts and labor would probably run about 2,000! I guess i'll be out of service for a while. If anyone knows of a good used transmission for sale, please let me know. If this doesn't fix my car completely I will probably give up on it.

[Ross]

Would somebody here please remind me and calico of the tranny guru so often touted on this board.
A good reman. is what he needs. These cars go to the scrapper because of mounting failures these days, not a nice near new car getting wrecked. Chances of a good used one are slim.
Two grand ought to cover the box and labor. as for the advice to change the fluid because of crap floating around,.. any mechanic worth a nickel will flush the cooler and lines with the install.
DON'T go to chain trans shops, they are thieving bastards. " Hi, I'm Claude Akins, your car may not need a new transmission" But you'll get one anyway.
Find an indy with lots of decent BMs in the lot, not **** boxes on deaths door, and get a price for R&R with your self purchased trans. Figure on buying a new guibo/u-joint and maybe mounts too, let the shop provide those items. The legwork will be worth it.

[glen-sj]

Kirt Koeller is his name. Here is a link on how to contact Kirt.
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/141358

[Calico_NC]

I have a couple of questions about transmissions that I need some clarification on. First off, when getting a replacement, do i need to get the exact same type transmission, for example, I have a 525i, do i need to get an 525i transmission, or can i get a 535 or 540? I'm not looking for a manual trans swap though, just automatic.

Secondly, what do you think about transmissions from ebay? (I know that sounds bad, lol) I was looking at a few, and the millage on them seems good. Most under 100,000 miles. Here are some examples:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-525-E34-325-E36_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQihZ005QQitem Z150102596282QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-AUTOMATIC-TRANSMISSION-525-E34-E-34-89-90_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33727QQihZ007QQitemZ 170208999682QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

[Ross]

Bad idea, both of 'em.
"about 75,000 miles" oh **** you Vines. They know how to read an odometer, not like they would tell the truth anyway. People won't be lining up for one with 175,000 will they?
Calico, do you know anyone with a car your age that has only 75k on it?
Read my previous post, shell out for a reman.
What is your recourse with a junkyard if the box is bad? Best case is they will send you another tired old piece of crap but you will be on the hook for labor and all the incedentals AGAIN plus shipping the old one back which they will insist on so they can get $20 for scrap.
Unless you have prior knowledge of a used autobox you are taking a giant risk. Hell, BMW themselves recommended NOT changing the fluid in them so what do you expect.
More of these are troubled than not at this age, you are asking to be bitten by buying an unknown autobox that old with such a reputation for failures.
You may also want to sniff around a bit regarding that particular seller's reputation.

[whiskychaser]

I have a couple of questions about transmissions that I need some clarification on. First off, when getting a replacement, do i need to get the exact same type transmission, for example, I have a 525i, do i need to get an 525i transmission, or can i get a 535 or 540? I'm not looking for a manual trans swap though, just automatic.

Secondly, what do you think about transmissions from ebay? (I know that sounds bad, lol) I was looking at a few, and the millage on them seems good. Most under 100,000 miles. Here are some examples:



As you are in the US I doubt you have the 5HP18 box that I have but if you do, there are about 12 different versions and they are not interchangeable. So anything I buy second hand will be 16 years old! I'm sure I've seen threads about rebuilding the 4 speed. No good to me but may help you. If you want to stick with the auto - as I do - you have two choices:
a. Pay about £1100 + VAT for a recon box thats only guaranteed a year
b. Have a go at fixing it yourself
With b at least you know whats been checked and replaced. And if you stuff up you can still use it for core charge or weigh in the aluminium