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e34.535i.sport
05-13-2008, 01:21 PM
I doubt the Hex screw being missing would affect it this badly... Unless the wheels weren't on tight enough?

infurno
05-13-2008, 01:45 PM
A few months ago I had to remove the rotors. On the front rotors, there is a hex screw that holds the rotor to the hub. Well mine was in bad shape, and ended up getting stripped. I had to have it ready to go the next morning. Used a drill to destroy the screw head and freed the rotor.

I put the wheel back on and figured that as long as the wheel is on, the rotor is not going anywhere. Its held in place by the rim, and has 5 bolts through it.

Drove like this for a while, no problem. After I got 4 new tires, there was a scraping sound. Breaks felt like like they were grinding rocks. I took it apart this morning and looks like my rotor is in bad shape.

Has ridges on both sides, breaks look like that too. Mileage fell considerably too, as it grinds while I drive.

I need a new rotor and breaks, but before I install them... Is it possible that the reason it was destroyed is because I never replaced the hex screw?

I can still extract the screw, but I figure I should know for sure what caused the rotor to get destroyed like that before I replace it.

whiskychaser
05-13-2008, 02:59 PM
I need a new rotor and breaks, but before I install them... Is it possible that the reason it was destroyed is because I never replaced the hex screw?


I think its very unlikely a missing grub screw caused the problem. As you say, you have five bolts worth of pressure pushing the disc in. Only thing I can think of is something was stuck behind the disc. But you would have had some grim wheel wobble

Ross
05-13-2008, 03:26 PM
That screw had nothing to do with the accelerated brake wear. The caliper is probably stuck on it's slide bolts.

Ferret
05-14-2008, 05:23 AM
You sure the brake rotor is fitted back in the right position over the remains of the grub screw?

I ran my TDS for months without grub screws in, though the rotors were prone to making a bid for freedom every time I took the wheels off.

You may have a stone behind the rotor or as ross says, a stuck caliper.

infurno
05-14-2008, 09:19 AM
Hey everyone, thanks for the replies.

I took everything apart this morning and put it back together. Seems to drive fine. I'll let it keep going until its really time to replace the parts.

Still not sure what was wrong, but maybe something slipped out of position.

e34.535i.sport
05-14-2008, 05:12 PM
Hey everyone, thanks for the replies.

I took everything apart this morning and put it back together. Seems to drive fine. I'll let it keep going until its really time to replace the parts.

Still not sure what was wrong, but maybe something slipped out of position.

Good to hear you got it sorted mate. Did you get new grub screws? If you copper grease them and don't put them in too tight you won't have any probs in future...

DueyT
05-17-2008, 12:53 AM
The caliper screw should only have a little bit of torque on it...~12 ft-lbs IIRC. Some anti-sieze would be a good idea to. Just did rotors all around, and I made sure to put a thin layer of anti-sieze on the hub faces before mounting the rotors, and also on the rotors before mounting the wheels. Making sure that the hub surface is abolutely clean with no corrosion or unever surface is very important.

Cheers,
Duey


p.s. if I had stripped the original grub screw, I think I'd be tapping out the original and retorfitting another one...although it's not going to go anywhere without the caliper slider assembly removed...