New Cylinder Head

[Ferret]

This is a general call for tips and tricks to make the head change go easily!

My 1989 525i Auto has given up the ghost and i've been advised that the head/head cylinder is forked!

As it's only just passed its MOT and has a full years tax, a new rad and new timing belt/tensioner etc....i cannot just bin the thing.

So i am getting a new head.

Any of you done this before and can impart some wisdom, i have the Bentley Manual ....and i am an engineer......not auto....but still capable.

Also anyone know of any london based breakers that specialise in bmws. Could do with some odd bits and pieces.

Thanks

Mike


How'd you know your head is buggered? I'd strip it down and get it pressure tested first... may save you a few quid. I thought the M20 heads were actually quite strong - it's the later M50's that tended to crack horribly?

[DaveVoorhis]

You can see my tale of the same at http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/525i/

Might help, might not...

[wiggy1406]

This is a general call for tips and tricks to make the head change go easily!

My 1989 525i Auto has given up the ghost and i've been advised that the head/head cylinder is forked!

As it's only just passed its MOT and has a full years tax, a new rad and new timing belt/tensioner etc....i cannot just bin the thing.

So i am getting a new head.

Any of you done this before and can impart some wisdom, i have the Bentley Manual ....and i am an engineer......not auto....but still capable.

Also anyone know of any london based breakers that specialise in bmws. Could do with some odd bits and pieces.

Thanks

Mike

[Ross]

Follow the Bentley, good gasket and new bolts, timing belt and water pump too.
Remember how many BMs go to their final rest because of a fatal overheating when shopping breakers.

[healtoeit]

Be careful when you torque the head, if you do it wrong you can bend it. Torque from the middle out, hard to explain but easy to show, i'm sure the bently explains it.

[wiggy1406]

How'd you know your head is buggered? I'd strip it down and get it pressure tested first... may save you a few quid. I thought the M20 heads were actually quite strong - it's the later M50's that tended to crack horribly?

Sadly all the info and advice i've had from good people is that they do go after a time, i will obviously check, but the M20 is quite prone to head crack particularly around the valve guides.

The guy at http://corrycylinderheads.co.uk/ (good bloke!!) has had loads of these on M20s so has my BMW service bloke.

So for the sake of £500ish i can solve the last remaining problem....i hope!

Mike

[wiggy1406]

Be careful when you torque the head, if you do it wrong you can bend it. Torque from the middle out, hard to explain but easy to show, i'm sure the bently explains it.

Cheers

[wiggy1406]

Water pump too?

[wiggy1406]

You can see my tale of the same at http://shark.armchair.mb.ca/~dave/525i/

Might help, might not...

Thanks for this....its a work of genius....!