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View Full Version : how do you?--separate transmission and engine on m50 525i w/4l30e



ryan roopnarine
03-12-2008, 11:55 PM
i was wondering---is there a uniform access hole for the torque converter bolts on a m50 equipped 525i with the a4s 310r transmission? bentley suggests two different possible holes for these bolts. i'm assuming that there are three or four bolts that have to be rotated around to access somewhere from the back of the engine. do you use a wrench to rotate the crank to do this? one suggested hole is located in the sump, another is through a removable access hole cover, and i'm hoping that there is a definitive answer.

just fyi--i'm trying to remove the transmission from the engine/car to replace the bell housing to main body gasket in the transmission. i've never removed the transmission from this car, so any hints or even rudimentary instructions would really be appreciated. thanks.

winfred
03-13-2008, 08:10 AM
rotate the engine by the 22mm front crank bolt and remove the 3 17mm bolts in the converter through the access hole thats either by the exhaust or at the bottom (it swaps positions depending on the oil pan)

bmwpower
03-13-2008, 09:04 AM
Do these torque converter fall out like on other cars when removing the trans? If so, be careful of spilling fluid....

ryan roopnarine
03-13-2008, 09:37 AM
this is a real dumb question winfred, but im hoping that you will indulge me about it. the poster immediately below me referred to it.... the instructions imply that some kind of special twisting tool is needed to get the torque converter out of the case because of the presence of some kind of 3 point bracket around the bell that holds it in. i was assuming that it would fall out once disconnected, but i'm assuming that it won't now. do you really need some manner of special tool to get the torque converter out, or is it just a really weird socket/wrench etcetera to get it free? if you remember, that is. thanks.

winfred
03-13-2008, 12:12 PM
the converter usually sticks to the engine but nothing but rust is holding it, if you lever the tranny out right the converter will stay in the tranny, you go through the hole in the bottom and lever between the flywheel and converter and that will pop the whole thing loose and out without spillage

healtoeit
03-13-2008, 09:08 PM
just fyi--i'm trying to remove the transmission from the engine/car to replace the bell housing to main body gasket in the transmission. i've never removed the transmission from this car, so any hints or even rudimentary instructions would really be appreciated.

When I replaced my clutch I used
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Clutch_Replace/E36-Clutch_Replace.htm
site, the procedure is exactly the same

The transmission on this car weighs a ton! I don't suggest doing this job solo. It is a very tedious process. You should remove the drive shaft (I didn't and really wished I had), and some of the torx (i think they are torx...you can check in the bently manual) are really hard to reach! Just an example, I had to use a 3ft extension attached to a universal joint attached to another 2 ft extension attached to a big breaker bar to just get the top torx off. Once the transmission is removed you have a very awkward piece of metal that will not stay on a regular floor jack. The higher you can lift your car the better imo. Lastly, mine took about three weeks to do because BMW has to special order some of the parts that I needed.

ryan roopnarine
03-13-2008, 10:45 PM
the converter usually sticks to the engine but nothing but rust is holding it, if you lever the tranny out right the converter will stay in the tranny, you go through the hole in the bottom and lever between the flywheel and converter and that will pop the whole thing loose and out without spillage

thanks.

attack eagle
03-14-2008, 12:07 AM
The access hole is in the Webbing, passenger side.

IF you are TOSSING the trans, I found it much easier to simply pull the trans off with the convertor still on the flexdisk and do that after.

Did mine with a single jack under the Main pan at the very front end... that is about the CG.

Make sure the car is high enough in the air, I think the diff was at 31-32" and it still barely slid out from under the sodding car with the pan on the ground.