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bissellh
05-11-2007, 10:22 PM
The key in my 92 BMW 525i turns, but the starter does not engage. They key seems to have a full range of motion but does not spring back from the start position anymore or start my car.

I read the current threads on the subject and read the write up on bimmerboard on how to remove and replace the key cylinder tumbler. I am trying to remove the key cylinder from my ignition in order to work out the problem with starting my car but am not having any success.

I need a little clarification on how to remove the key cylinder from the ignition. I have a thick paper clip and a very small allen to use to release the tab holding the cylinder in the ignition. According to the write up, the key must be in position 1 in order to remove the key cyinder. Is that the off, auxillary or start key position? How far down in the hole does the paper clip have to be pushed in order to release the key cylinder?

Fred Tyler
05-12-2007, 05:38 AM
http://www.bimmer.info/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=4795&stc=1&d=1178966257
shaft.jpg also see http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/331655

bissellh
05-13-2007, 03:15 PM
Thanks for the reply Fred. I read the bimmerboard write up. It says, You have to insert a small but rigid piece of wire (or something similar) into the small hole next to the key on the barrel. The key must be turned to the first position beforehand.'

Do you know if the first key position is the off, auxillary or start position? I have tried all three key positions, but have had no luck removing the key cylinder. Do you know how deep I have to insert the wire to reach the release mechanism?

632 Regal
05-13-2007, 04:36 PM
aux position, use a small allen wrench, stronger than a paperclip. you have to hit the clip at a slight angle not exactly 90 degrees.

NielsGalan
05-13-2007, 05:15 PM
pos. 0 is "off"
pos. 1 is the first click after pos. 0.

You sure it's not your starter, that's dead?

bissellh
05-13-2007, 06:08 PM
pos. 0 is "off"
pos. 1 is the first click after pos. 0.

You sure it's not your starter, that's dead?

I am sure, unless the starter causes the spring back in the key from start position back to auxillary position. Does anyone know what does cause that spring bacck action in the key?

bissellh
05-13-2007, 06:16 PM
aux position, use a small allen wrench, stronger than a paperclip. you have to hit the clip at a slight angle not exactly 90 degrees.

I have a very small allen wrench I was trying to use at an angle as suggested. Does the allen key go down into the hole about half the length of the key cylinder to put pressure directly on the clip or does something just inside the hole get pressed to release the clip?

MTV
05-13-2007, 06:47 PM
The key in my 92 BMW 525i turns, but the starter does not engage. They key seems to have a full range of motion but does not spring back from the start position anymore or start my car.

I read the current threads on the subject and read the write up on bimmerboard on how to remove and replace the key cylinder tumbler. I am trying to remove the key cylinder from my ignition in order to work out the problem with starting my car but am not having any success.

I need a little clarification on how to remove the key cylinder from the ignition. I have a thick paper clip and a very small allen to use to release the tab holding the cylinder in the ignition. According to the write up, the key must be in position 1 in order to remove the key cyinder. Is that the off, auxillary or start key position? How far down in the hole does the paper clip have to be pushed in order to release the key cylinder?

If your ignition lock cylinder feels empty when you turn it as if there is nothing inside it you will need to replace the ignition housing. I just went through the whole process of replacing both the cylinder and housing over the weekend. I replaced the cylinder just to be safe. There is a shaft inside the housing that must have gotten damaged. The shaft on mine did not want to extend out to the ignition switch. Hope this helps.

bissellh
05-13-2007, 08:09 PM
If your ignition lock cylinder feels empty when you turn it as if there is nothing inside it you will need to replace the ignition housing. I just went through the whole process of replacing both the cylinder and housing over the weekend. I replaced the cylinder just to be safe. There is a shaft inside the housing that must have gotten damaged. The shaft on mine did not want to extend out to the ignition switch. Hope this helps.

I was able to start the car by remove the ignition switch and turning it with a screwdriver. I am going to pull the steering wheel and remove the housing. Do I have to first remove the key cylinder in order to remove the ignition housing? I have not been able remove the key cylinder though.

MTV
05-13-2007, 09:56 PM
I was able to start the car by remove the ignition switch and turning it with a screwdriver. I am going to pull the steering wheel and remove the housing. Do I have to first remove the key cylinder in order to remove the ignition housing? I have not been able remove the key cylinder though.

No, the cylinder does not need to come out. I too had difficulty removing the cylinder so I just kept it in the housing. I bought an extra cylinder in case the original one is damaged but I will take it to a locksmimth and see if I can still save it so I won't have 2 different keys.

Just make sure that after you remove everything to get to the housing you remove the retaining ring located right below the spline. That will allow you to slide the housing out with ease. It took me half a day and a lot of frustration before I figured it out. As they say "Trial and error". Good luck! :)

bissellh
05-13-2007, 10:39 PM
No, the cylinder does not need to come out. I too had difficulty removing the cylinder so I just kept it in the housing. I bought an extra cylinder in case the original one is damaged but I will take it to a locksmimth and see if I can still save it so I won't have 2 different keys.

Just make sure that after you remove everything to get to the housing you remove the retaining ring located right below the spline. That will allow you to slide the housing out with ease. It took me half a day and a lot of frustration before I figured it out. As they say "Trial and error". Good luck! :)

I pulled off the air bag, steering wheel and ignition switch and was finally able to release and remove the key cylinder. Just like everyone thought, the shaft that is turned by the key and turns the ignition switch is sheared in half inside the housing. My steering wheel is locked up preventing me from driving it home tonight.

bissellh
05-13-2007, 10:39 PM
No, the cylinder does not need to come out. I too had difficulty removing the cylinder so I just kept it in the housing. I bought an extra cylinder in case the original one is damaged but I will take it to a locksmimth and see if I can still save it so I won't have 2 different keys.

Just make sure that after you remove everything to get to the housing you remove the retaining ring located right below the spline. That will allow you to slide the housing out with ease. It took me half a day and a lot of frustration before I figured it out. As they say "Trial and error". Good luck! :)

I pulled off the air bag, steering wheel and ignition switch and was finally able to release and remove the key cylinder. Just like everyone thought, the shaft that is turned by the key and turns the ignition switch is sheared in half inside the housing. My steering wheel is locked up preventing me from driving it home tonight.

bissellh
05-13-2007, 10:50 PM
I pulled off the air bag, steering wheel and ignition switch and was finally able to release and remove the key cylinder. Just like everyone thought, the shaft that is turned by the key and turns the ignition switch is sheared in half inside the housing. My steering wheel is locked up preventing me from driving it home tonight. I hope that replacing the housing will also resolve the steering wheel being locked up.

My next hurdle is how to remove the housing from the steering column. I removed a retaining ring from the inside steering rod but I was not able to slide the housing off. The housing looks like it is fitted on there with two rivets. There are also two indentations on top of the housing that apparently fit into two indentations on top of the steering column that would prevent it from sliding off freely. How is the new housing put back on without a rivet gun?

You say, 'Just make sure that after you remove everything to get to the housing you remove the retaining ring located right below the spline. That will allow you to slide the housing out with ease. ' Is this ring on the under side of the housing or steering column?

MTV
05-13-2007, 11:17 PM
I pulled off the air bag, steering wheel and ignition switch and was finally able to release and remove the key cylinder. Just like everyone thought, the shaft that is turned by the key and turns the ignition switch is sheared in half inside the housing. My steering wheel is locked up preventing me from driving it home tonight. I hope that replacing the housing will also resolve the steering wheel being locked up.

My next hurdle is how to remove the housing from the steering column. I removed a retaining ring from the inside steering rod but I was not able to slide the housing off. The housing looks like it is fitted on there with two rivets. There are also two indentations on top of the housing that apparently fit into two indentations on top of the steering column that would prevent it from sliding off freely. How is the new housing put back on without a rivet gun?

You say, 'Just make sure that after you remove everything to get to the housing you remove the retaining ring located right below the spline. That will allow you to slide the housing out with ease. ' Is this ring on the under side of the housing or steering column?

If the ring you are referring to is the one located right under the spline where the steering wheel attaches to then that is the correct one. As for the rivets... those are breakaway bolts that can removed by either using a chisel or screwdriver and tapping on them with a hammer. They should easily loosen up. You can purchase new bolts from the stealer or BMA. I replaced them with allen screws to make it easier just in case there is a next time.

bissellh
05-13-2007, 11:39 PM
The ring I removed was around the steering spline/rod inside the column. Removing it allowed me to remove a retainer from the spline that would prevent me from sliding the housing off.

I have never dealt with break away bolts before. Do you just hammer on the head of them until they break or do you pry the head of the bolts off with the chisel or screwdriver.

MTV
05-14-2007, 12:17 AM
The ring I removed was around the steering spline/rod inside the column. Removing it allowed me to remove a retainer from the spline that would prevent me from sliding the housing off.

I have never dealt with break away bolts before. Do you just hammer on the head of them until they break or do you pry the head of the bolts off with the chisel or screwdriver.

The break-away bolts just need to be tapped a few times to loosen it. You do not have to tap on the hammer too hard. Once you see the bolts start to move tap it a few more times. You will then be able to twist it off by hand.

MTV
05-14-2007, 12:23 AM
bissellh - YGM

bissellh
05-14-2007, 10:57 PM
Mine has two indentations in the top plate that fit into two grooves in the steering column tube and there are two rivets on each side of the top plate. But, there are no bolts in the middle of the top plate as shown in the realoem.com diagrams and as described by you. Perhaps, I will also have to replace the steering column tube?!?!?

bissellh
05-15-2007, 09:15 PM
Problem resolved! It was the steering lock housing!

The two rivets on each side of the housing are the break away bolts. The way to loosen them is to tap them with a hammer and chisel or screwdriver from such an angle that you are rotating the bolt loose. I read that someone replaced them with allen bolts. I did the same thing. The housing takes M8 bolts with 1.25 pitch. I used 20mm long bolts.

Thank you for all of your help. I ended up completing the job at a cost of $150 which is considerably less than the $500 plus the cost of towing my car to the dealer.

Does anyone know of a source that can rebuild my old steering lock housing or is it strictly a throw away item? The reason that I ask is because I saw that some on-line etailers were charging a core charge.