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View Full Version : DIY on changing spark plugs in M50 engine



ktteoh
05-09-2007, 12:39 AM
folks, i want to change my current plugs from bosch super (2 electrodes) to bosch super 4 (4 electrodes).

i plan to do it when the engine is cold early in the morning.

i have done some reading up and see frightful stories like high voltage, "fragile" direct ignition coils etc.

some questions i have:
1. how do i open up the (BMW logoed) engine cover? how many screws and where?

2. do i need to disconnect the battery?

3. what are the correct steps to separate the ignition coil modules from the spark plug? - can this be done one plug at a time?

4. when tightening the plug, after tightening by hand, how much turns should i add using the wrench (i don't have a torque wrench).

5. any pictorials guide anywhere?

6. any other gotchas i should be aware of?

7. how long should this take for all 6 plugs?

t.wak
05-09-2007, 01:19 AM
http://bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/gen_maintenance/spark_plugs.htm

ktteoh
05-09-2007, 02:26 AM
the one on bmwe34.net has no pictures and i think it refers more to m30 engine rather than m50 engine which have (additional complexity of) direct ignition coil on top of each plug.

anyone with clues for m50 plug renewal for newbies?

DaveVoorhis
05-09-2007, 05:24 AM
It's a trivial job. You do not need to disconnect the battery, but it's probably a good idea to do so any time you're working under the hood/bonnet.

Use a small screwdriver to pop the two screw caps off the larger plastic engine cover. Underneath each, you'll find a nut. Undo each nut. Then temporarily remove the oil fillter cap, lift off the engine cover, and replace the oil filter cap.

You'll see six coil packs, each secured with two nuts. Starting at the front of the engine, undo the nuts on the first coilpack. The coil pack will pop up slightly. Remove the coil pack from the plug.

Look down the plug hole -- if it's full of oil, your valve cover gasket needs to be replaced, which is another easy job.

Remove the plug using an appropriate socket. Install the new plug, following the torque instructions found on the new plug's box. Re-install the coil pack, making sure to restore any grounding straps to their original locations.

Repeat the above for all six. The whole job will probably take about a half hour to an hour if you've never changed plugs before.

e34.535i.sport
05-09-2007, 02:25 PM
Changed the sparks for the first time myself recently - after a lot of research. I Think the general directions have been layed out so i only have one other piece of advice - make sure you get some copper based anti-sieze to put on the threads when you're putting them back in. (Ive heard things can get problematic if you dont use it!).

Oh and a lot of people seem to suggest sticking with the stock plugs gives much better results but personal choice. Good luck.

Tiger
05-09-2007, 02:56 PM
Time and time again...Bosch plus 4 plugs makes BMW engine runs like crap. Don't bother.

Dr. evil
05-09-2007, 03:44 PM
i've used bosch platinum 4 for about a year and have had Zero Problems.

Different strokes for different folks.

DaveVoorhis
05-09-2007, 04:55 PM
In case there's any confusion, I meant the oil filler cap, not "fillter" or "filter" as I wrote.

Denton
05-09-2007, 04:59 PM
Changed the sparks for the first time myself recently - after a lot of research. I Think the general directions have been layed out so i only have one other piece of advice - make sure you get some copper based anti-sieze to put on the threads when you're putting them back in. (Ive heard things can get problematic if you dont use it!).

Oh and a lot of people seem to suggest sticking with the stock plugs gives much better results but personal choice. Good luck.

+1 on that!

fujioko
05-09-2007, 06:51 PM
Since you'll be saving a ton of money by doing the work yourself, Why not spend a lot more and get a set of Denso Iridium plugs. You'll sh*t twinkeys when you see how much they cost.. They are worth every penny!

Bosch also makes a decent tosters and coffee machine.. but their +4 plugs suck.

Morgenster
05-10-2007, 05:19 AM
folks, i want to change my current plugs from bosch super (2 electrodes) to bosch super 4 (4 electrodes).

i plan to do it when the engine is cold early in the morning.

i have done some reading up and see frightful stories like high voltage, "fragile" direct ignition coils etc.

some questions i have:
1. how do i open up the (BMW logoed) engine cover? how many screws and where?

2. do i need to disconnect the battery?

3. what are the correct steps to separate the ignition coil modules from the spark plug? - can this be done one plug at a time?

4. when tightening the plug, after tightening by hand, how much turns should i add using the wrench (i don't have a torque wrench).

5. any pictorials guide anywhere?

6. any other gotchas i should be aware of?

7. how long should this take for all 6 plugs?

If you want pictures and a very detailed step by step:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/E36-Spark-Plugs.htm

ktteoh
05-21-2007, 05:00 AM
morgenster, this is a good guide indeed. 2 questions:

1. towards the end, it says not to use anti-seize compound - i was planning to since i thought it was a good idea. to quote "...Install each plug into the cylinder heads without using any anti-seize compound."

2. not having a torque wrench, would firstly finger tighten it then followed by half a turn on the socket wrench - will this be sufficient?



If you want pictures and a very detailed step by step:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Spark-Plugs/E36-Spark-Plugs.htm

Morgenster
05-21-2007, 10:15 AM
Antiseize is not needed. It would only allow you to overtighten the plug and kill the thread. When I tighten the plugs I screw them on finger tight (you'll notice where you can't go on easily). After that I give them about a 1/3 turn by wrench. Makes it easier to remove and you won't need anti-seize. Carefull though: if the plugs have a washer do as above. If they don't you might have to check with the plugmaker, because maximum could be 1/4 turn.

yaofeng
05-21-2007, 10:42 AM
There are specific torque settings on spark plugs in the BMW torque setting book. Why rely on feel?

M12x1.25 tighten to 23 Nm,
M14x12.5 tighten to 30 Nm.

ktteoh
05-21-2007, 03:19 PM
what can you do if you don't have access to a torque wrench?


There are specific torque settings on spark plugs in the BMW torque setting book. Why rely on feel?

M12x1.25 tighten to 23 Nm,
M14x12.5 tighten to 30 Nm.

DaveVoorhis
05-21-2007, 04:09 PM
what can you do if you don't have access to a torque wrench?
Follow the tightening instructions written on the box the plug came in.

And everyone should have access to a torque wrench. Get one.

repenttokyo
05-21-2007, 04:26 PM
what can you do if you don't have access to a torque wrench?

you can use a spark plug wrench to tighten them until just before you have to force. you never want to force with an aluminum head. there's no need for a torque wrench to change spark plugs.

dave b
05-21-2007, 05:02 PM
you can use a spark plug wrench to tighten them until just before you have to force. you never want to force with an aluminum head. there's no need for a torque wrench to change spark plugs.


Changing the spark plugs is a very satisfying job, especially when you see what they would charge you. I have never used a torque wrench, but I make sure I dont tighten too much (I try and imagine about 20 lbs of pressure). You can actually do the entire job using only the tools in the trunk kit. In fact, you can do almost all of inspection II with the tools in the trunk.

db

bmwrp8
05-22-2007, 12:41 AM
i've used bosch platinum 4 for about a year and have had Zero Problems.

Different strokes for different folks.

I second that:D been using bosch super4 for awhile no probs.:D