aston_jag_tech
04-26-2007, 10:29 PM
I dont know if anyone has ever replaced an M30 or any type of engine before, so let me say this. Easy Cheesy...
I have had an engine ready to be placed gently inside of my E34s engine bay for some time now, and its running very well.
I'm going to give some advice since everything is still fresh in my head....
Lets see..
Easy compoments to remove....
These were, in my opinion very very easy to locate and remove with ease.
-Intake system from filter to the throttle body.
-Radiator, shroud, fan clutch, coolant hoses(upper,lower, heater hoses)
-Power Steering pump and mount(Two 13mm bolts)
-Exhaust manifold nuts(12mmx4)Remove the heatshield first.
-Torque converter bolts(17mmx3)
-Lower transmission bellhousing bolts(inverted torx, 17mm, 13mm)
-Engine mount nuts(x2)
-RH side ground strap to body.
-Coolant reservoir and connections.
Possibly challenging components to remove
-Two 13mm transmission bolts from the top of car.
-One 13mm trans bolt on RH side of engine, access from bottom and wiggle
your hand past the exhaust..Trust me.
-A/C Comp and mount...Three bolts are very easy, the last one will need to be removed with a step wrench(13mm)
-Transmission bellhousing bolts on side. Bust out your wobbly sockets and extensions.
-Starter?? I guess this depends on the person who is performing this job, It was sort of difficult the first time I did one. But now? piece of cake.
Things to watch out for???
Make sure that torque converter stays were its suppose to!! Inside the bellhousing of trans.
Make sure you jig up the chains with a leveler because our engines sit at a major angle and you may not get the driver side(left side) engine mount bracket clear off the mount... just a word of advice....
Yes!! Support the Transmission....I had the car low and used a jack stand and a block of wood. You can also.....use a 8-9 inch piece of wood and place it under the tranny and on top of the subframe(suspension and use a tie strap to secure it. Useful if you need to lift the car. And when the car is in the air be careful and support the tranny with a pole jack.
The injector harness needs some major patience.. Use a 90 degree pick for those. One at a time baby.
Ok I ran into a little problem...
My freeze plug located at the rear of engine had a very small pin hole...It was a steel plug and was corroded from inside to outside. Not uncommon..Always flush the block thoroughly.
I replaced with brass and applied aviation sealant(brown) because they wont rust...and they look cool. So always check that. After you have removed the flywheel clean the crank threads from oil, etc. Use a sealer such as the same for the freeze plugs. The bores on the crankshaft go directly into the oil pan galley. I only noticed this because I over filled my engine with oil because it sat for a while. If your engine is going to sit for a while do the same and rotate the engine a few revolutions to keep everything oiled.
OK so the engine has new freeze plugs, replaced the crush washers on the cam oiler bar and used lock tight on the banjo bolts, checked the timing chain guides, tensioner, checked compression, set plug gaps, checked and torqued all bolts, flushed engine block and head, cleaned inside of intake manifold, cleaned injector nozzles, installed new inj. o rings, new intake manifold gaskets, exhaust gaskets, new vac hoses, etc..
Ok so getting the engine in is not that bad. remember the hoo dis still on the car. Go from the side baby...remove a tire or two if you must... Only hard thing was getting the angle of the engine on the hoist correct. My angle when I put it in was a little off but no big deal. Thats what friends are for yeah? So get it in pretty simple lots of room.
Just keep a very close eye on the engine harness and the a/c p/s components and lines. Seriously be careful.
After that its gravy baby...
Enjoy all thats for reading........
Please mind the grammer and spelling. Im exhausted. :)
I have had an engine ready to be placed gently inside of my E34s engine bay for some time now, and its running very well.
I'm going to give some advice since everything is still fresh in my head....
Lets see..
Easy compoments to remove....
These were, in my opinion very very easy to locate and remove with ease.
-Intake system from filter to the throttle body.
-Radiator, shroud, fan clutch, coolant hoses(upper,lower, heater hoses)
-Power Steering pump and mount(Two 13mm bolts)
-Exhaust manifold nuts(12mmx4)Remove the heatshield first.
-Torque converter bolts(17mmx3)
-Lower transmission bellhousing bolts(inverted torx, 17mm, 13mm)
-Engine mount nuts(x2)
-RH side ground strap to body.
-Coolant reservoir and connections.
Possibly challenging components to remove
-Two 13mm transmission bolts from the top of car.
-One 13mm trans bolt on RH side of engine, access from bottom and wiggle
your hand past the exhaust..Trust me.
-A/C Comp and mount...Three bolts are very easy, the last one will need to be removed with a step wrench(13mm)
-Transmission bellhousing bolts on side. Bust out your wobbly sockets and extensions.
-Starter?? I guess this depends on the person who is performing this job, It was sort of difficult the first time I did one. But now? piece of cake.
Things to watch out for???
Make sure that torque converter stays were its suppose to!! Inside the bellhousing of trans.
Make sure you jig up the chains with a leveler because our engines sit at a major angle and you may not get the driver side(left side) engine mount bracket clear off the mount... just a word of advice....
Yes!! Support the Transmission....I had the car low and used a jack stand and a block of wood. You can also.....use a 8-9 inch piece of wood and place it under the tranny and on top of the subframe(suspension and use a tie strap to secure it. Useful if you need to lift the car. And when the car is in the air be careful and support the tranny with a pole jack.
The injector harness needs some major patience.. Use a 90 degree pick for those. One at a time baby.
Ok I ran into a little problem...
My freeze plug located at the rear of engine had a very small pin hole...It was a steel plug and was corroded from inside to outside. Not uncommon..Always flush the block thoroughly.
I replaced with brass and applied aviation sealant(brown) because they wont rust...and they look cool. So always check that. After you have removed the flywheel clean the crank threads from oil, etc. Use a sealer such as the same for the freeze plugs. The bores on the crankshaft go directly into the oil pan galley. I only noticed this because I over filled my engine with oil because it sat for a while. If your engine is going to sit for a while do the same and rotate the engine a few revolutions to keep everything oiled.
OK so the engine has new freeze plugs, replaced the crush washers on the cam oiler bar and used lock tight on the banjo bolts, checked the timing chain guides, tensioner, checked compression, set plug gaps, checked and torqued all bolts, flushed engine block and head, cleaned inside of intake manifold, cleaned injector nozzles, installed new inj. o rings, new intake manifold gaskets, exhaust gaskets, new vac hoses, etc..
Ok so getting the engine in is not that bad. remember the hoo dis still on the car. Go from the side baby...remove a tire or two if you must... Only hard thing was getting the angle of the engine on the hoist correct. My angle when I put it in was a little off but no big deal. Thats what friends are for yeah? So get it in pretty simple lots of room.
Just keep a very close eye on the engine harness and the a/c p/s components and lines. Seriously be careful.
After that its gravy baby...
Enjoy all thats for reading........
Please mind the grammer and spelling. Im exhausted. :)